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 Post subject: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 20th, 2022, 9:49 
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Joined: January 18th, 2022, 19:00
Posts: 43
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Hi everyone!

I am new to this forum and this is my first post.

I have some problems with a Western Digital Hard Disk whose size is 500 GB.

It is exactly the WDC WD5000AAVS-00ZTB0 model. It is a Caviar Green Power unit.

The firmware of this hard disk is 01.01B01.

And the PCB suitable for my hard disk is exactly the following:

2060-701444-004 REV A


I used this HD as a second drive. That is, it is mainly for personal data.

But the problem is that the hard disk suddenly got damaged: likely, an electrical failure.

The HDD is detected by the BIOS but it is inaccesible in Windows.

Unfortunately I have no recent backup of my data.


A computer technician has examined the HDD and has told me that the problem is the PCB.

But he was unable to get the PCB that is suitable for my Hard Disk.


Since I know a little about electronics and have a digital multimeter. For this reason, I have tried to find out what failure the PCB exactly has.

Firstly, I checked the TVS diodes: D3 (5V) and D4 (12v). And both are OK. The resistors R67 and R64 are also OK.

Later I checked diode D2 that is OK.

However there is a problem with diode D1. Diode D1 is shorted (there is continuity in both directions).

The following can be read on the surface of Diode D1:

ST
G30
GP815


In addition, I have also found the following problems:

Transistors Q2 and Q3 work badly. I have measured the voltages of their six pins. And the following are the voltages I get:

Pin #1: 5.08 V
Pin #2: 0 V
Pin #3: 0 V
Pin #4: 5.08 V
Pin #5: 0 V
Pin #6: 0 V

[Note: Pins 1 to 3 are on the left and pins 4 to 6 are on the right].

Both transistors give the same voltages.


But, as far as I know, the right voltages for both transistors are exactly the following:

Pin #1: 5.1 V
Pin #2: 1.3 V
Pin #3: 1.3 V
Pin #4: 5.1 V
Pin #5: 1.3 V
Pin #6: 1.3 V

To sum up, pins 2, 3, 5 & 6 are working badly.


Both transistors (Q2 and Q3) have the following numbers written on their surface:

3BDC5 or 38DC5

I am not totally sure whether the second digit is an "8" or a "B", because the letters are very small.


There is also a problem with two resistors:

a) Resistor R47 (theoretically R100, ie. 0.10 ohms): it really gives no value when trying to measure it. (It says "OL").

b) Resistor R45 (theoretically R050, ie. 0.05 ohms): it gives a very high value when trying to measure it. (It says exactly 1.0 ohms).


Finally, I have found a problem with the jumper plug J6.

Sometimes there is no voltage in any of the 4 pins. It reads 0 V in all of them.

But some other times I can measure the following voltages:

a) upper pin on the left: 5.98 V
b) lower pin on the left: 7.45 V

However, I have not been able to read any voltages on the pins placed on the right.


Currently the HDD does not spin. but it is recognized by the computer BIOS (or rather, sometimes yes but sometimes not).

At the first days when the HDD just got damaged, HDD Regenerator managed to reach until sector #672,592 (328 MB) before stopping and tell you that the drive is not ready.

But currently HDD Regenerator stops immediately at sector #0 and tell you that the drive is not ready.

However the SMART status seems to be OK. Because "Hard Disk Sentinel for DOS" tells so. (I am including a recent screenshot of the SMART for this drive. I have used HDD Sentinel for DOS).


If I replaced diode D1, transistors Q2 and Q3 and resistors R47 and R45, would the HDD work normally?

What is your opinion?

Does Diode 1 have 30V and 2 A?
Where could I get the exact technical details for this diode?
And could you give me an URL where I could purchase this diode on the Internet?

And regarding the transistors, what is the correct model: 3BDC5 or 38DC5?
And what about the specific technical details for this exact transistor?
And where could I get this exact model of transistor on the Internet?


Finally, how could I check wether the HDD motor is damaged (of course, without my opening the hard disk)?

What are the correct values (in ohms)? Because I have no idea about the right values.


Thanks in advance for your suggestions and replies.

_______________________________________


[Some clarifications to the pictures I am enclosing with this post:

a) Picture #1 is a photo of this exact model of PCB. But it is NOT a photo of my real board because it is not seen as clearly as this one. [Note: In the photo, I have circled in red or violet the components that are failing].

b) Picture #2 is an overview of my real PCB (the original one from the damaged HDD).

c) Picture #3 is also a part of my real PCB where the main failing components are located.

b) Picture #4 is a screenshot of the SMART status for the problematic HDD. For this test, I have used HDD Sentinel for DOS].


Attachments:
File comment: Picture #1 is a photo of this exact model of PCB. But it is NOT a photo of my real board because it is not seen as clearly as this one. [Note: In the photo, I have circled in red or violet the components that are failing].
Picture #1 - PCB with failing components (marked).jpg
Picture #1 - PCB with failing components (marked).jpg [ 1.63 MiB | Viewed 17369 times ]
File comment: Picture #2 is an overview of my real PCB (the original one from the damaged HDD).
Picture #2 - Overview of my real PCB.jpg
Picture #2 - Overview of my real PCB.jpg [ 583.73 KiB | Viewed 17369 times ]
File comment: Picture #3 is also a part of my real PCB where the main failing components are located.
Picture #3 - Photo of my real board (problematic zone).jpg
Picture #3 - Photo of my real board (problematic zone).jpg [ 531.38 KiB | Viewed 17369 times ]
File comment: Picture #4 is a screenshot of the SMART status for the problematic HDD. For this test, I have used HDD Sentinel for DOS].
Picture #4 - Smart status.jpg
Picture #4 - Smart status.jpg [ 912.08 KiB | Viewed 17369 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 20th, 2022, 21:44 
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First let me say that, if the drive spins up and can access its SMART data, then the PCB must be OK. That's because the SMART module lives in a reserved area on the platters, not on the PCB. That said, your drive appears to be affected by an intermittent problem where it sometimes fails to spin up.

Now to address your observations, there is an NPN transistor, Q4, near the SATA power connector. It is the pass transistor in a 3.3V Vio supply. You should measure 3.9V, 5V and 3.3V at its BCE pins.

Q3, D1, R45, C37, C24, C25 and the two square inductors constitute a step-down buck converter which produces the Vcore supply for the MCU. You should measure 1.3V or 1.2V at R45. Diode D1 will measure about 100 ohms because this is the static resistance of the MCU core, so there is nothing wrong here.

D2, L2, C39, Q2 and R47 constitute an inverting boost converter which generates the -5V supply for the preamp. You should measure -5V at he anode of D2 momentarily after power-on. This supply will then be turned off when the MCU fails to detect the preamp (because the board is disconnected from the drive).

If R47 measures open circuit, then reflow the solder at this point.

You might like to read this:

Tutorial - Linear and Switchmode Regulators used in HDDs:
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=231

As for HDD Regenerator, do not run this tool against any drive that you wish to recover data from. It will only accelerate the failure of any drive that has a weak head. Instead you should clone such a drive with HDDSuperClone or ddrescue. These tools understand how to deal with failing drives.

The 1.0 ohm reading could be due to the internal resistance of your multimeter or its probes. Do you measure 1.0 ohms when you touch the probe tips together?

STPS2L30A, STMicroelectronics, Schottky rectifier, 30V, 2A, marking G30, SMA:
https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stps2l30.pdf

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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 21st, 2022, 6:53 
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Posts: 1084
Location: The_UK
fzabkar wrote:
As for HDD Regenerator, do not run this tool against any drive that you wish to recover data from. It will only accelerate the failure of any drive that has a weak head. Instead you should clone such a drive with HDDSuperClone or ddrescue.
I'd be doing this as soon as possible - I don't think you have an electrical problem I think you've had a mechanical one from day 1. Clone the drive before you kill it.

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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 21st, 2022, 11:40 
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Thank you for your replies.

I want to say the following:

There is no operative system installed on the faulty HDD, only personal data.

I use Windows 7 in the primary hard disk and the faulty HDD as a second drive.

But a few weeks ago this hard drive started failing.

whenever Windows was starting, the computer hung or froze at the Windows logo. The operative system did not end up loading successfully. And I had to turn off the computer.

I did a test in other computer, just in case, and I got the same problem. That is, the computer always hang or froze at the Windows logo and I had to turn off the computer.

In order for me to be able to access the HDD in Windows, I had to use an adapter from SATA to USB and an external supply of 12 V. But in this case, it always took a long time for Windows to recognize the drive.

When Windows manages to recognize the drive, there is the problem that it says that the capacity of the hard disk is 0 bytes.

Later, I tried to use several recovery software in order to recover data but it was totally unsuccessful. I usually get an input/output error and cannot access the HDD.

For example, when trying to use HDD Regenerator in Windows. It says the following:

The HDD has "0 Mb in 0 sectors".

And also HDD Regenerator says this:

"Error access violation at 0x021F0FF0: tried to read from 0xFFFFFFFF, program terminated".


Later I tried to use the Western Digital diagnostic tool for Windows. But this tool doesn`t work well in Windows with this HDD.

[Note: As stated above, in order for me to be able to use this faulty HDD in Windows, I have to use an adapter from SATA to USB. Because I am totally unable to start Windows if this HDD is plugged in the SATA port of the computer motherboard].

The only way in which I can run the Western Digital diagnostic tool is by using its version for DOS.

I exactly used this program for the test:

Western Digital Data Life Guard for DOS v5.27

Firstly, I ran the Quick Test and the results were the following:

"Test completed without errors" (code: 0000).

It took exactly 3 minutes and 44 seconds to complete this short test. (Take into account that the HDD capacity is 500 GB).


Later, I ran the "extended test". Unfortunately, it failed. The results were exacly the following:

"Too many errors found. Please contact technical support". (Error/status code: 0225).


During the extended test, I also got the following error:

"Busy timeout. Error/status code: 0134".


As stated in my previous message, I went to a computer technician in order for him to recover my data from the damaged HDD. This computer technician examined my HDD and told me that he was unable to access my HDD (despite his using several specialized programs for recovering data). He told me that the HDD does not spin up and that the problem with this HDD is the PCB. Since he had not a suitable PCB for my HDD. For this reason, he told me that I would have to go to another technician.

[Note: By the way, this computer technician only did a short examination of my HDD].


Now I am going to talk about the measurements taken with the multimeter:

The reason why I think that diode D1 is shorted is for the following:

When measuring diode D1 with the multimeter (selecting the diode test), I get continuity in both directions. On the contrary, this does NOT happen with diode D2 which is exactly the same type of diode.

And if I select the resistor test (selecting 200 ohms) for diode D1. It reads 89 ohms in one direction and 91.9 ohms in the reverse direction.


Transistor Q4 seems to be more or less OK.

I get 4.02 V for the upper left pin and 3.36 V for the lower left pin. And I get 4.59 V for the right pin.

Regarding the Schottky rectifier you mention in your reply (that is, STPS2L30A: 30 V, 2 A).

Would that Schottky diode be a good replacement for diode D1?

And what about a Schottky diode with 1 A (instead of 2 A)?

Would a Schottky diode with 30 V and 1 A be suitable as a replacement for diode D1?


Again, regarding resistor R47 (theoretically R100, ie. 0.10 ohms). If you carefully watch picture #3 (it is a photo of my real board), you can clearly see that resistor R47 is burnt. (Please take a look at picture #3).

A question in connection with this:

Would it be risky for the HDD, if I powered it on taking into account that resistor R47 is damaged?


And now, what about resistor R45 which is theoretically R050 (ie. 0.05 ohms)?

You told me in your message that a reading of 1.0 ohms may be due to the internal resistance of my multimeter or its probes.

I have done several tests with the probes touching each other and sometimes -not always- I get a reading of 1.3 ohms.

It is likely that sometimes the reading of 1.0 ohms be due to the internal resistance of my multimeter, as you pointed it out. But I have done quite a lot of tests and I have gotten 0.05 ohms (or around) in NONE of them at all. I usually get 1.0 or 0.9 ohms and the least amount I have ever gotten is 0.8 ohms which is far from 0.05 ohms (its theoretical value).

Furthermore, there is a dark stain on the surface of resistor R45 (but it might be a drop of the liquid from some of the surrounding components, I am not sure).


In addition, as stated earlier, there are some problems with transistors Q2 and Q3. Because I have measured their voltages.

The two upper pins (on the left and the right) for each transistor are OK. Since I get 5.08 V (or around) in the two mentioned pins.

But the remaining 4 pins are failing, since I always get a reading of 0 V. And this despite my doing quite a lot of tests.

In order to do the just mentioned tests, I plugged the PCB in the SATA power connector from the Power Supply Unit of my computer. And I select 20 V in the DCV scale of my multimeter.


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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 22nd, 2022, 1:15 
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If you are measuring 1 ohm when you short your probe tips, then that is the resistance of the meter leads plus any rotary or pushbutton switch. You need to subtract this resistance from all your meter readings.

Diode D1 is OK. You are not measuring the resistance of this diode. You are actually measuring the resistance of every component in the circuit that is connected to the diode's terminals. In this case the 90 ohm reading is the resistance of the MCU core (the Marvell chip). If you don't believe me, desolder the diode and retest.

The tab (collector) of Q4 should be sitting at +5V. That's the supply voltage coming into the PCB. It appears that the PSU for your USB enclosure is poorly regulated. I suspect that its +12V supply will be about 13V.

Transistor Q3 (MOSFET) appears to be OK. As I told you, when that part of the circuit is working properly, you will see approximately 1.2V to 1.3V at R45. Did you measure that?

R47 does look burnt. That could point to a shorted MOSFET (Q2), shorted turns in inductor L2, or a fault in the SMOOTH chip. The SMOOTH chip controls the voice coil, spindle motor, and the power supplies. Your measurements would indicate that Q2 does not have a Drain-to-Source short, so I would replace R47 and try again, with the board off the drive.

BTW, measuring the MOSFETs (Q2 and Q3) with a multimeter is not always useful since these are switchmode power supplies. You need to observe the signals on an oscilloscope. Then you will see pulses at MHz frequencies.

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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 22nd, 2022, 18:34 
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Fzabkar, thanks for your reply

As you suggested, I have measured the voltage at resistor R45 where I got a reading of 1.35 V.


Also I have measured all the voltages of the preamp connector J1. For this, I have chosen a screw hole on the PCB as ground. (My multimeter in the DCV scale and selecting 20 V).

Point #1: 0 V --------- Point #2: 0.05 V

Point #3: 3.28 V ------ Point #4: 3.26 V

Point #5: 3.01 V ------ Point #6: 5.09 V

Point #7: 3.01 V ------ Point #8: 2.40 V

Point #9: 0 V --------- Point #10: 0 V

Point #11: 0.10 V ----- Point #12: 0 V

Point #13: 0.10 V ----- Point #14: 0 V

Point #15: 0 V -------- Point #16: 0 V

Point #17: 0 V -------- Point #18: 0 V

Point #19: 0 V -------- Point #20: 3.36 V


Again, I have tried to measure the jumper plug J6.

I have done quite a lot of tests in order for me to try to measure the voltages of the conector pins 1-4 of J6.

And finally, I have been able to measure them well.

After many trials, I have been able to notice the following:

The connector pins of J6 ONLY have a voltage just after plugging the PCB into the SATA power connector of the PSU. And this current in the connector pins of J6 is kept ONLY during 1 minute or so. After which, there is no voltage at all in the 4 connector pins of J6.

I have made a lot of trials and the same thing always happens. Surely, the Smooth motor controller is responsible for this.

Anyway, there is a current on the 4 connector pins of J6 ONLY during the first minute just after the PCB has been plugged into the SATA power connector.

I have also tried to use Power Up in Standby (PUIS) which is a specific HDD feature that allows the drive to spin up only when necessitated by a command, rather than when turning on the computer. It is intended to save energy.

In order to activate PUIS, one must short pins 3-4 of the back port of the drive.

While PUIS was activated, I have been able to verify that there is NO current at all in the connector pins of J6 (not even during the first minute). And when PUIS is disabled (by removing the cap that shorts pins 3-4), there is certainly a current in the 4 connector pins of J6 but ONLY during the first minute.

The voltages I have been able to measure during the first minute in the connector pins of J6 are exactly the following:

A) At Bottom:

I get a reading of 6.25 V on the left pin.

And I get a reading of 4.16 V on the right pin.

[Note: Regarding the right pin, a few times I got a reading of 5.10 V, but only for the shortest time (1 second or so). Really, it almost immediately dropped to 4.10 V].


B) At top:

I get a reading of 7.40 V on the left pin.

And I get a reading of 5.92 V on the right pin.



[Note: For more clarification, see Picture #5 where I have marked the voltages of the preamp connectors of J1 and also I have marked the voltages of the connector pins of J6].


As stated above, after the first minute onwards, there is no current in the 4 connector pins of J6. (That is, there is no current at all most of the time. I can confirm that this is so after many trials).

It is very likely for the Smooth motor controller to be responsible for this.

The following are exactly the voltages I have measured after the first minute onwards:

A) At Bottom:
I get a reading of 0 V on the left pin
And I get a reading of 0 V on the right pin.

B) At top:
I get a reading of 0 V on the left pin.
And I get a reading of 0.12 V on the right pin.


I am thinking about purchasing a new PCB which is compatible with my HDD and later a computer technician would transfer the firmware from my old PCB to the donor PCB. But the problem is that this type of board has no chip at U12. Therefore, the BIOS is embedded in the Marvell MCU chip.

But before buying a new PCB compatible with my HDD, I want to be totally sure that the motor of the HDD is not working badly. In fact, before the HDD got inaccesible, sometimes the HDD did NOT manage to spin up. I think so. Therefore the motor of the HDD may be failing. And in this case, the repair would cost me too much money. I have been quoted a price of 500 EUR (about 800 australian dollars) for this type of repair, here in Spain. It is too much money.

How could I check whether the motor of the hard disk is in good condition (without opening the HDD)?

On the back of the disk, there is a flex ribbon cable with 4 contacts. I have thought about measuring resistance.

Could you tell me what the right values (in ohms) are?

In this way, I would know whether or not the HDD motor is working well.

Because if the the HDD motor were damaged, the repair would cost me too much money.

I have taken a photo of the back of my HDD in order for you to tell me which points I should measure.

Please, see Picture #6 and circle the points I should measure there.

Thank you.


Again, another possible solution could be the following:

A technician in electronics could solder the Marvell MCU chip from the old PCB onto the donor PCB that I would buy in Ebay or another store.

But before doing this, I want to be totally sure that the Marvell MCU of my old PCB is in good condition.

How could I check this?

Which points should I exactly measure?

Thank you.


Attachments:
File comment: I have marked all the voltages of J1 and J6 pins in the photo of the PCB.
Picture #5 - Voltages in J1 and J6 pins.jpg
Picture #5 - Voltages in J1 and J6 pins.jpg [ 438.71 KiB | Viewed 17138 times ]
File comment: Back of the HDD where you can see the flex ribbon cable that makes contact between the HDD motor and the jumper plug J6.
Picture #6 - Flex ribbon cable of the HDD motor.jpg
Picture #6 - Flex ribbon cable of the HDD motor.jpg [ 437.31 KiB | Viewed 17138 times ]
File comment: The back of my PCB.
Picture #7 - PCB back.jpg
Picture #7 - PCB back.jpg [ 604.86 KiB | Viewed 17138 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 22nd, 2022, 20:06 
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Your experiments with J6 and PUIS confirm that the MCU is alive, which in turn confirms that its Vcore (+1.35V) and Vio (+3.3V) supplies are OK. J6 is of course the spindle motor connector.

Your observation with respect to intermittent spin-up could be explained by a low +5V supply. If the supply voltages are too low, the SMOOTH motor controller negates the POK signal (Power OK).

The only way to check the motor with a multimeter is to confirm that the phase-to-common resistances are identical and are of the order of 1 ohm. The phase-to-phase resistances should be twice this value. Three pins in the J6 connector are phases, the fourth pin is common. Of course you should measure these resistances on the motor.

This is the winding diagram for an old Samsung drive (A, B, C are the phases):

Code:
                 Common
                   o
                   |
                   |
             +-----+-----+
             |     |     |
             |     |     |
             C|    C|    C|
   1.9 ohms  C|    C|    C|        Spindle Motor windings
             C|    C|    C|
             |     |     |
             |     |     |
             o     o     o
             A     B     C

The MCU in your model (88i6745) is sometimes affected by "head mimic faults". This means that the MCU produces symptoms that are similar to those produced by weak heads.

Anyway, there is a way to read the embedded ROM code in your MCU. Spildit has written a tutorial on the subject at the HDD Oracle web site.

I'm still looking at your HDA voltages. When the HDD is running, there will be a -5V supply for the preamp (as well as +5V). Although it is missing from your measurements, it may be that the MCU is switching it off after failing to detect a preamp. This would be normal behaviour.

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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 22nd, 2022, 22:30 
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I expect that the anode of D2 connects to HDA pad #4. If so, then this is the -5V supply for the preamp. You need to replace that open resistor (R47) and fix this problem. I would also measure the resistances of the preamp by testing for shorts between pin #1 (Ground ?) and pins #4 and #6/

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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 23rd, 2022, 12:46 
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Thank you again, Fzabkar.

I have taken measurements to the spindle motor of the HDD.

In order to do this, I have removed the PCB from the HDD. And of course, disconnected from any electric current.

I have placed the probes directly on the solder points of the motor (at the back of the HDD).

[Note: See Picture #8 where I have marked exactly the points where I have taken the measurements. In such a photo, there are also all the resistance measurements I have taken with my multimeter].


The multimeter on Resistance scale (and selecting 200 ohms).

The following are the results:


Firstly, it is necessary to take into account that the multimeter resistance is exactly 1.3 ohms (because I get this value when the leads are touching each other).


Multimeter resistance: 1.3 ohms


RESISTANCE BETWEEN PHASE AND COMMON


Resistance between "Common" and "A" = 2.1 ohms

Resistance between "Common" and "B" = 2.0 ohms

Resistance between "Common" and "C" = 2.0 ohms


Real Resistance between common and phase = 2.03 ohms (average) - 1.30 ohms (multimeter) = 0.73 ohms



RESISTANCE BETWEEN PHASE AND PHASE


Resistance between "C" and "A" = 2.8 ohms

Resistance between "C" and "B" = 2.7 ohms

Resistance between "B" and "A" = 2.8 ohms


Real Resistance between phase and phase = 2.77 ohms (average) - 1.30 ohms (multimeter) = 1.47 ohms



As stated above, the exact points where I placed the probes to take the measurements are marked in Picture #8.


The Resistance values are somewhat lower than those which you told me that are the right ones. (You told me that the resistance between phase and common should be 1 ohm -I have gotten 0.73 ohms for this-. And also you told me that the resistance between phase and phase should be twice the common-phase value: that is, 2 ohms -really I have gotten 1.47 ohms for that-).

Do the values I have taken mean that the spindle motor of my HDD is in good condition?

I think so.

But, what is your opinion?


By the way, when I have more time I will answer the other questions you have asked me in your last message.


Thanks for your patience.


Attachments:
File comment: In picture #8, I have marked the exact points where I have taken the measurements. They refer to the resistance of the spindle motor of the HDD.
Picture #8 - Testing HDD spindle motor.jpg
Picture #8 - Testing HDD spindle motor.jpg [ 388.82 KiB | Viewed 17049 times ]
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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 23rd, 2022, 12:53 
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Your motor readings are good.

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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 23rd, 2022, 14:02 
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About accessing the drive through Windows, and the problem about success starting Windows.
You can try:
- start windows without the drive
- disable SATA channels, and eventually SATA controllers, inside the device manager
- plug your drive
- you can now communicate with the drive through direct IO
- re-enable channels/controllers to make windows detecting the drive (and so careful if it is in a weak state)

Do some test with a functional drive about disabling channels, your disabling is fine when you do not see anymore your drive inside windows explorer.

About your PCB, are you sure the pin legs that connect to the motor are not damaged? One pin of J6 seem strange in your first photo.


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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 23rd, 2022, 15:39 
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Reply to Diybit:

Regarding what you say about a pin leg of J6 being damaged. Really, all of them are OK.

The problem with that pin leg was that it was raised too high. Surely when I took measurements to J6 with the multimeter. But later I returned it to its original position. That is the explanation.

Anyway, thank you for your suggestions.


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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 23rd, 2022, 20:29 
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Fzabkar, finally here are the remaing answers to your questions:

fzabkar wrote:
I expect that the anode of D2 connects to HDA pad #4. If so, then this is the -5V supply for the preamp.


Multimeter in diode scale:
If I place the black probe in anode of D2 and the red probe in pad #4 of J1: there is continuity.

However...

fzabkar wrote:
You should measure -5V at the anode of D2 momentarily after power-on.


Multimeter in DCV scale (selecting 20 v)
If I place the black probe in a screw hole as ground and the red probe in the anode of D2, then I do not get -5V but a reading of 3.27V. (I do NOT get a reading of -5 V, not even just after plugging the PCB into the SATA power conector of the PSU. I always get 3.27 V or around).


fzabkar wrote:
You need to replace that open resistor (R47) and fix this problem.


I still have to purchase the R100 resistance in a store of electronics. Therefore, not done yet.


fzabkar wrote:
I would also measure the resistances of the preamp by testing for shorts between pin #1 (Ground ?) and pins #4 and #6


Multimeter in diode scale:
If I place the black probe in pad #1 of J1 and the red probe in pad #4 of J1: there is NO continuity.
And if I place the black probe in pad #1 of J1 and the red probe in pad #6 of J1: there is NO continuity either.

Multimeter in Ohm scale (selecting 200 ohms):
If I place the black probe in pad #1 of J1 and the red probe in pad #4 of J1: I get "OL"
And if I place the black probe in pad #1 of J1 and the red probe in pad #6 of J1: I also get "OL".


fzabkar wrote:
Your observation with respect to intermittent spin-up could be explained by a low +5V supply. If the supply voltages are too low, the SMOOTH motor controller negates the POK signal (Power OK).


And what is the origin of this problem?
What is the component that is failing?


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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 23rd, 2022, 20:45 
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The preamp is inside the drive, not on the PCB. Therefore you need to measure the resistances at the HDA connector.

A voltage of 4.59V at the SATA +5V input points to a problem with the external power supply.

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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 23rd, 2022, 21:45 
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Fzabkar, now I have properly taken the measurements to the preamp (and not to J1 of PCB).

fzabkar wrote:
I expect that the anode of D2 connects to HDA pad #4. If so, then this is the -5V supply for the preamp.


Multimeter in diode scale:
If I place the black probe in anode of D2 and the red probe in HDA pad #4: there is NO continuity.

Multimeter in Ohm scale (selecting 200 ohms):
If I place the black probe in anode of D2 and the red probe in HDA pad #4: I get "OL".

fzabkar wrote:
I would also measure the resistances of the preamp by testing for shorts between pin #1 (Ground ?) and pins #4 and #6


Multimeter in diode scale:

If I place the black probe in HDA pad #1 and the red probe in HDA pad #4: there IS continuity.

And if I place the black probe in HDA pad #1 and the red probe in HDA pad #6: there is NO continuity.


Multimeter in Ohm scale (selecting 200 ohms):

If I place the black probe in HDA pad #1 and the red probe in HDA pad #4: I get "OL".

And if I place the black probe in HDA pad #1 and the red probe in HDA pad #6: I also get "OL".


Therefore, it seems that there is a problem in HDA pad #4.

What does this exactly mean?

Is there any solution?


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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 23rd, 2022, 21:52 
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If you are measuring more than 200 ohms for each of the preamp supplies, then that's OK. I was worried that the preamp may have been damaged by the faulty -5V rail. This rail is required during writing.

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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 23rd, 2022, 22:06 
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But the multimeter in continuity test, it detects a short between pins #1 and #4 of the preamp. It beeps.

And on the contrary, between anode of D2 (PCB) and pin #4 of the preamp there is NO continuity. It does not beep at all.


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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 23rd, 2022, 22:44 
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Sorry, I need to think about this. I'm a little confused. :-?

OK, I think pin #6 connects to D2.

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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 24th, 2022, 0:49 
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I found strange that you succeeded to get the SMART values with a "broken" PCB, and this SMART is saying about all is fine...
I note a warning at "Spin Up Time" worst 11. (that can also occur with a bad connection at J6/HDA)

When have you read this SMART, is it after your shoot of Picture #3?

As you said, R47 seems a little burnt.
Re-control it, and push a little hard your probes.

If needed for comparing, I'm getting three functional drives similar to your, but sadly no one match exactly your PCB...
But I haven't unscrew those PCB to really see if they are a lot different from your one.
Tell me if you or fzabkar want I try compare something...
WD5000AAJS-22TKA0 2060-701477-001 REV A
WD5000AAJS-00YFA0 2060-701477-002 REV A
WD5000AAKS-00TMA0 2060-701477-001 REV A


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 Post subject: Re: Problem with a HDD PCB
PostPosted: January 24th, 2022, 5:25 
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Reply to Diybit:

Thank you for your interest.

The SMART was taken on 16th January 2022 and the photo named "Picture #3" was taken on 19th January (ie. 3 days later).

By the way, the SMART can only be accessed in DOS and NOT in Windows.

As stated earlier, I used the program HDD Sentinel for DOS to access the SMART. I used a bootable pendrive with DRDOS Caldera.

The only way to access the damaged HDD in Windows is by using an adapter from SATA to USB and connecting an external power supply of 12 V. But it takes a very long time for Windows to recognize the drive and finally it says that the capacity of the HDD is 0 bytes.

In short, I cannot really access the HDD in Windows.


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