Why do you want pins for SATA?

Data will be encrypted via SATA.

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Not necessarily. Mine was meant to be encrypted, but was not.

Ah yes, you are right!

I have seen some unencrypted ones, "essentials" ones I believe.

But they seem to be few and far between compared to the "passport" ones with Smartware.

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So is 2060-771737-000 Passport-only?
BTW mine was an Elements.

Wd My passport Essentials & Wd My Book Essentials are encrypted
The only exception of this I know is in Russia due to their goverment laws but I'm not sure if this has changed.

Loki

Ok but this only sounds relevant to me if that board is a specific one for My passport or My book disks, regardless of where they're from. Because if it's not, then it might be from an Elements, and thus unencrypted. If that's the case, then pcimage's steady statement might turn out to be inaccurate, before knowing what disk model we're dealing with.

Drive Has INIC-1607E Bridge Controller IC SATA to USB with AES 48pin LQFP .this Basically Means Either We Find the Pin Diagram Of the 12 Header

Hi guys,
i have the same HDD and I want to try to recover my data in it in the same way used by Boris888.
But what i don't understand is once removed the capacitors C90,C91,C92,C93 and connect the TX/RX signals, how i can switch-on the HDD?
My HDD is a WD wdbgys0010bbk-u0 model like the Boris888' s one

Thanks a lot.

I use a Male to Female 7+15 Pin Serial ATA SATA Data power combo extension Cable
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Male-to-Femal ... 336f341228

I then cut off the Female end so I have the Male end + wires.
The sata cable part at the end is stripped & is used for Tx+, Tx-, Rx+, Rx- & Earth
The sata power part I cut off the outer black (Earth) & yellow (12v) leaving an earth & 5v wires. These are then stripped & soldered to the PCB.

the male end is then connected to the pc.


Loki

Hi Loki,
thank you very much for your reply.
Where I can solder the 5V and the earth signals to the PCB?
I'm afraid to burn everything!!!

Thats where research & development comes in.
here are some pinouts http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:USB_3 ... B_plug.PNG & http://www.kineteka.com/microusb-b.aspx
As you can see pin 1 is 5v & pin 5 is earth (could also use the earth you have used connecting from the sata cable part). using a multimeter you can do a continuity test to trace it on the pcb near the usb connection.

Regarding your comment "I'm afraid to burn everything!!!" DIY comes with risks & it's up to you to decide if you accept them, otherwise seek a pro who knows what to do & wont put your data at risk.

Loki

Thanks a lot, Loki.
My comment was saisd to laugh
Ok...all that remains is to try.
Have a good day.

Just a quick question, Is your drive a WD Passport Essential if so these have hardware encryption via a
Initio, Symwave or JM chip on the pcb.
If so you wont be able to access your data as it will be encrypted.
Also if its an Essential was a Smartware password set?

I hope your diagnosis is correct & good luck in your recovery

Loki

You rock Loki. Have been working with a case for a week. An external WD that I removed from the enclosure. Showed up as unallocated space.
Of all things, GetDataBack found tons of files but no MFT... so didn't display any files after scan. Testdisk failed to discover a partition, Photorec found junk.

Found this thread with search on "unallocated space" and read about hardware encryption. Hah--luckily hadn't taken out the trash yet and dug the interface board out of the bottom of the bin.
Guess what--it had a Initio chip on it. Attached drive to PC through interface board/USB connector... ran Testdisk and immediately discovered the deleted partition. Restored it and everything's good. Will have one happy customer.

Sam

Hi guys,
garymon / martynui / loki, please help!!!
I have a similar drive, but different board revision. How can I identify those USB pins to bypass the connector?
Does anyone have the same board? Is it possible to identify the pins from the pictures attached?

HDD: WD10TMVW-11ZSMS1

Thanks so much!
Igor

Hi Igor,

Your USB connector doesn't look physically damaged?
What made you come to this diagnoise?
Whats the symptoms?
More info is really required to get responses


Loki

Hi loki,

Thank you for prompt response!
My drive was working well for about 9 months. Then one day during copy operation it got stuck on one file for hours and could not move on. I disconnected and retried, but the copy got stuck again either on the same file or close to it. Later it became worse - when connected to pc, it stopped being identified by Windows and was not displayed among available drives. The usb icon in the task manager bar was indicating that there is usb device connected, but the drive was missing from the list of drives (under windows explorer).
The drive was spinnig though and the light on the drive was on as usually. It behaved the same way under Windows XP and Vista.
The spinning sound of the drive did not indicate any internal issues...

When I came across this thread the problem description from garymon was close to mine and I believed that that might be the same issue.
Bypassing the USB connector sounds like the least intrusive operation, so I want to try it first.
I need to recover data on that drive...

I apreciate your help very much!
Igor

Me again, so is it possible to identify from the pictures what the USB pins are?
Many thanks!
Igor

Hi Igor,

As long as your diagnosis is correct ( and your accepting the risks of DIY ) you will need to do some research:

To find the pcb USB connections use a spare USB drive cable, cut the usb end off the cable that goes to the pc & then plugged it in to the usb drive & test the continuity from the usb wires (which you strip the end off) to the connections points on the pcb using a multimeter.

Red = 5v
Black = Ground
Green = D+
White = D-

Should only take about 10 minutes to work out

Loki

this thread is old but i would like to quote ataho:

"I had a problem with this hard drive (Model WD10TMVV-11TK7S1). Stopped working, not recognized in bios, and when connected it clicks smoothly 4-5 times and then stops but the light is on static. After researching for 2 months i decided to open the drive, and see if i could connect the drive to a SATA Connector, but i ended up opening the top cover and plug in the USB cable just to see what the heck was the clicking sound. I saw that the armor was stuck on the surface and was not moving at all but the disk was spinning, so i pushed the armor towards the docking bay (smoothly, not to much pressure), Then i put the cover on and plugged in the USB an voila ready to save the data in another drive.
When opening the drive "CLEAN ENVIRONMENT"
When removing the armor "POWER ON OR YOU'LL SCRATCH THE SURFACE"
If you have this clicking sound
Attachment:
File comment: AUDIO FILE
Untitled.rar [258.55 KiB]
Downloaded 1073 times

Its a high chance that the armor is stuck on the surface.
I recovered 12 HDD in the last 4 days by doing this trick"

I listened to your audio file and share the same symptoms. my drive spins up and you can hear it, spin for 5 times then stops. the white led light is lit on, no blinking what so ever. i want to say the cause of the defect is cause of a accidental drop. at this point my drive cannot be seen or accessed on any os platform. although there are some important stuff on the drive, i don't think 800 to 1000+ bucks is worth that much if i can bare it. im reaching out to anyone out there who's tried this persons option and came out with a positive outcome.

also, i was wondering if anyone knew what type of torx screw driver i would need to open the top of my hard drive?
thanks