You really dont get it.
If you crash with your car and are badly hurt because you did not use your safety-belt, you wont get any better by putting the belt AFTER the accident.

_________________
Murphy was an optimist

Datarecovery in Belgium, Holland, France and Germany
Datarecoverytools http://www.drtools.eu

I have 3 problems:

1. Yesterday, I received the replacement diode's by mail, therefore, to replace them was not so easy, since I do not have 3 hands, because I could not use very small long pliers to hold the replacement diode's in place, so I decided to just use butane soldering iron, and solder in the D4 and D3 diodes.

2. About the original SATA power connector converter: I found out that that ATX to SATA power converter adapter was bad after trying to use a DVD+RW drive to backup some data, so I replaced it.

3. Then I tried to connect the new SATA power connector, after I tested it working on the DVD+RW drive. What happens is: The drive still will not spin up (I already tested the resistance of the motor with digital multimeter, and then all work - so I do not think the motor is fried); and the power led on the power supply (USB to SATA converter power supply), goes off when I connect the SATA power connector to my hard drive; but when I disconnect it, the power led goes back on.

What am I doing wrong? I also noticed that the D4, D3, and the few other tiny diode's / capacitors are going in a sort of a loop from the SATA power connector and then back.

Could my power supply be bad, even though the DVD+RW drive works externally with this power supply? Or was the soldering not the way it should have been (i.e. only replacing the original capacitor's is the only solution)?

I could buy the same exact circuit board replacement for this hard drive, but the problem is: I read in numerous places on the Internet that this model of the hard drive will not work with swapping the circuit board, because the original circuit board main chip stores calibration data. Is this correct? If so, where can I find somebody who can move the original main chip from the original circuit board and replace it on the replacement circuit board of the same model hard drive?

Also, my soldering was around 98% perfect, and tiny. I double checked and no wires by side are accidentally soldered together, just the connections where the D4 and D3 diode's were.

Please help. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much.

Then what's the solution? I need my hard drive data recovered badly?

Please help.

Thank you very much.

I've got the solution!

I will purchase a replacement circuit board of the same exact model circuit board, and then after replacing the circuit board, see if I will be able to recover all my original data on this hard drive, because if the circuit board swap worked on my laptop hard drive, it will probably work on my desktop hard drive too, as long as it is the same exact model circuit board. (I do not think there is any different calibration data - as long as the circuit board model is the same exact --- and even if there is any calibration data, I think that the same circuit board that this hard drive right now is currently using, is made for the same exact / similar hard drive models).

At least I've got to try it. $150 to pay to Fry's Electronics and no guarantee of data recovery is a little too much (even though the DriveSavers.com; when I called, quoted me around $700 to $2700 - for laptop drive, desktop drive might even cost most - especially if I need around 450GB to recover). Also there is guarantee of data security is Fry's Electronics (you will never know if they will make another copy of all your files for their personal use - i.e. anyone working in Fry's Electronics, and having access to the hard drive area could do that given the time and need opportunity -- just in-case..).

So, I will attempt the circuit board swap of the same exact circuit board model #.

Link to same circuit board (I was quoted $20 with shipping included): http://www.drivestar.org/product/pcb_wd/701567.htm

What do you think? Is that a good idea?

Thank you very much.

SOB

You forget these are two different brands of harddisks.

Replacing the pcb has a chance to work less than 0.1% on these drives.

You really need pro help here before it is to late.

This is my last post for this item.
If you want to continue, its on your own risk.


Dobre

_________________
Murphy was an optimist

Datarecovery in Belgium, Holland, France and Germany
Datarecoverytools http://www.drtools.eu

In Italy they would say " E' UNA CAZZATA " .
You have been already told about presence of unique data on your board , anyway, you really want to tinker with it, go on. Maybe you'll be so lucky as with the Fujitsu. In that case don't forget to play lottery as you can become rich and then your problems (and not only yours) will be over. Just don't ask why it doesn't work.
If doesn't work, it would be a good idea to go to WD forums where , I'm sure, you will get the right advice and maybe someone will take the time to guide you step by step or connect remotely and lead you to make everything work.



You're welcome.

Then is paying Fry's Electronics $150 the best data recovery solution I've got, since I cannot afford higher than that?

Thank you very much.

Who are "Fry's Electronics"?

I guess they are a general "all-purpose" electronic store in U.S.?

I very much doubt they are a proper bona-fide Data Recovery outfit, and so there's a chance they'll bodge the job and make it impossible or 10x more $$$ to recover.

Just an observation, as we see loads of bodged attempts from these sort of people in the UK

Your data = your choice, I wish you all the best of luck.

_________________
PC Image Data Recovery
http://www.pcimage.co.uk

New!! HDD-PCB.COM for all your PCB and donor HDD requirements!

The name doesn't prelude well anyway...

Your quotes are dishonest. One can only imagine why you chose to omit the context.

That truth is that I always advise people to check their power source, as removing a TVS diode also removes the overvoltage protection on the affected supply rail. Furthermore, I always give them the part number of a suitable replacement diode, and provide the names of three popular suppliers in several continents.

Clearly the OP did not heed my warning, with unfortunate consequences. The lesson to be learned from this thread is not that DIY is unsafe, but that due caution must be exercised. In fact there are numerous DIY success stories in many storage forums, including this one.

If there's something dishonest in this life, it's not that quotes.

Lol. You are over reacting...

Yes, Fry's Electronics is a computer store in the United States, which not only sells computers, computer parts, but also other electronics, such as LCD TV's, and many other appliances. You can check their website at: http://www.frys.com/ for more information.

Or check out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fry%27s_Electronics

And about Fry's Electronics data recovery, I do not want to trust them either, because I do not think they really know how to recovery hard drive data in-case of fried PCB board. And also, I tried doing the diode's wiring, but the board still will not make the hard drive spin up. Checked the voltages on the hard drive motor with the digital multimeter, and it is not fried. So the replacement board should be the solution.

And finally, I already purchased a same exact model replacement circuit board from China, now I just have to wait up to 3 weeks to receive it, and then see if atleast the hard drive will spin up (which it should), and if the data will not be recognized, then I will hard to find some data recovery company which can swap the main chip from the original PCB board unto the new same model replacement board (which will then 95% or 99% fix the problem - if the drive is not seriously damaged in some other way - which I doubt it is, since it was cared for "with extreme care", no shaking or such of any kind that would damage the hard drive).

I guess only time will tell.

Thank you very much.

There was no further damage done, the first main damage was that when I connected the ATX to SATA power connector extension cord (which I later discovered), must have not have some kind of wire not 100% connected, and so it fried the PCB board completely (or that is atleast what I think).

And I am not stupid to "open" the hard drive up or anything like that. That would only ensure 1000% of no hard drive recovery.

And I will try everything I can to not pay lots of money for the hard drive recovery and get all my hard drive data back.

Thank you very much.