Which SATA PCB is mostly compatible with this PCB?

Tested one?

2060-771961-000 USB PCB

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2060-771959-000

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Same MCU but different SMOOTH IC on these 2 pcbs.

Is it tested?

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whats the hdd model?

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jono is correct and it will work. I just had a job like that.

Also the board might not line up correctly when you try to screw the sata board on but the critical connections will line up

i think you will only get 3 of the six screws to line up.

WD10JMVW-11AJGS0



I see there are total 4 PCBs with same MCUs, But all the Smooth are different.
1. 2060-771961-000
2. 2060-771960-000
3. 2060-771933-000
4. 2060-771931-000

Is all the PCBs compatible?

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Mine USB PCB was a 2060-771961-000 from a WD20NMVW-11AV3S0

I used a SATA 2060-771959-000 from a WD5000LPVX-22V0TT0

Same controller on both, but the PCB design was different so it did not screw in perfectly, but it cloned 100%

so i know for a fact that combo works...

Hello guys,

Someone able to help identify compatible board for WDC_WD20NMVW-11AV3S2 2TB drive?
I would like to convert it to internal sata. There is a sata connector on the board but cannot identify the pin-out of the 12pin header. Only get as far as the power goes, and the drive would start. If i de-solder the second SPI Flash (U14) the usb device "WD My Passport 0820" disappear from devmgmt, and identifies itself as "WDC_WD20NMVW-11AV3S2" as a normal sata drive would. Got physical DUMP both of them, did some research. I am not new to binary and hex modding. Could someone help identify the SATA pins or a compatible PCB? The only firmware i need to take care is the 1st (U12) near the Head connector
I uploading both if someone need it but i removed my serial from the 2nd (U14) Replaced witha string "SERIALSERIAL" , i name security_fw.
I am a soldering tech so damaging the drive is no concern to me.


Regards,

Look for a 2060-nnnnnn number on the underside of the PCB.

There is no SATA connector. I don't know the function of each of the header pins, but I believe they are used in some models for LEDs and pushbuttons. There may even be a couple of diagnostic pins (according to WD tech support), but I'm not sure. If I were you, I would trace these pins back to the MCU or bridge IC. Then obtain a SATA board with the same MCU and see where those same pins go.

Thanks, that's interesting. IME, in the absence of an external EEPROM, other bridges identify themselves with the bridge IC manufacturer's PID and VID.

You need to remove capacitors C31/C37 and C13/C18, then tap into the SATA Tx/Rx pairs on the underside of the PCB, namely E71/E72/E73/E75.

Yes, that's right. U12 is the drive's PCB firmware (aka "ROM") while U14 contains the bridge firmware.

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Will try tomorrow after work. I could't find info on the used Jmicron JMS569 usb 3.0 interface mcu and marwell 88i9346-tpj2 MCU Thanks for the info of the capacitors will let you know and take some pics. Need to stuff that drive into a wifi Router.

Aye, stupid me... usually USB/Sata RX/TX tracks goes close to each-other.... Just had a close look again, and noticed the tracks with the capacitors you mentioned. cool. THANKS M8

Update

the first trial is no success managed to identify the pins for sata conn c13 is A+ ,c18 A- c31 B- c37 B+ with help from fzabkar I got pics from another drive where the connection clearly traceable. LOL For first it did not worked on esata maybe because i used longer leads (soft core) same what hp using for their sata in their laptops. Maybe U14 also need to be removed so is not interfering with the drives firmware. Or perhaps my esata plug i used are faulty is been soldered countless times. Will try it later. 4 now just made a mod so is fit for my laptop Will not give up drive still works and if i kill it just go RMA . Report back when i got something useful. Meantime try to get a WD20NPVX drive PCB almost same except the USB 3.0 crap.

Update!!! ITS WORKING.

Just had to have those capacitors on but de-touched from the side which goes to the JMS chip. Nerveless the config really fragile, but working. Had to power it from the usb 3.0 port and remove the 2nd flash chip, and because of that i got a JMICRON USB device and a WDC_WD20NMVW-11AV3S2 in dev mgmt. However SMART data cannot be read and the drive not showing in any diagnostic software. Is accessible from diskpart, diskmgmt , can boot as well but not appear in crystal disk info.

Conclusion: is good for recovery if the usb bridge has blown, and don't have a spare pcb.

Hi guru's, first post here so please be gentle.

A quick google search to see if its possible to convert the drive to a sata connection brought me here.

So I have a WD20NMVW drive that has failed on me. (logic board by the looks of it)
Full Details:
WD20NMVW-11AV3S2
logic board : 2060-771961-001 REVA

fails to mount in windows or linux although I hear the drive spins up and it sounds fine.

This is a 2tb drive with roughly 400gb of data that I absolutely need recovered if possible.

Very interested in the post made by 'coolroom' as he seems to have had some luck replacing the board with a WD5000LPVX

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Hi,

Firstly it's very very unlikely that the PCB is at fault, given that the drive spins up and sounds normal.

Secondly, even if it was the PCB and you converted to SATA, you'd end up with encrypted data.

The good news is that AT THIS STAGE, the drive shouldn't be too difficult to recover (well, for us anyway with the appropriate knowledge and tools) so shouldn't be mega bucks

Happy to take a look if you wanna send it in.

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If this is the case, I suggest you take pcimage's advice and send your drive to them, to have it recovered.

This is a Shrek drive and these are a challenge even for the most of the pro's. You would need to find a compatible donor PCB, write the patient's "ROM" into it, make a full clone of the drive, and then decrypt the clone. Your drive can die at any of the above stages and then things will go really, really, really wild with this drive.

As Sean said, it shouldn't be very expensive at this stage.

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2060-771960

If you wish to pursue DIY, obtain a compatible SATA PCB, copy the contents of U12 to your donor, repair the drive, and then reinstall the USB PCB to recover your data. If you wish to pursue this avenue, let us know. Be warned that a DIY repair would not be feasible under certain circumstances, eg damaged head.

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I'd like to respond to this thread since it applies to me directly.

fzabkar, are you saying that you can repair the drive using software while the data is still undecrypted? Then after, going back and reseating the USB board to transfer the data off of?

I plan on doing this. My drive is just unbearably slow to transfer from, although everything can be seen in windows explorer. I think repairing the drive over SATA would speed that up and allow me to copy things faster over USB afterwards. Thoughts?

TIA

@WDRecovery
The reason it is slow is because of other failing aspects, such as firmware, bad sectors, maybe a weak head, etc.
Changing the interface will not resolve those problems. Changing the interface may guide toward potentially resolving those problems, but more is needed than just that.

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Are none of those things fixable using software, at all? How do I take advantage of the SATA interface?