USB PCB pads ripped off, where can I make contact to (image)

[SlingShot]

this PCB is missing 3 pads, where could I solder to instead ?

Any suggestions welcome

[HaQue]

think it is going to be like this. soldering to via's is better under stereo microscope.

[data-medics]

If you can't get the solder to stick well to those divots that were pointed out already you can probably trace out where they pop out on the other side.

[SlingShot]

thanks for your replies.

I scratched off the green stuff to reveal those tiny contacts, I tinned them and the wires and just about managed to get solid contacts onto them. I soldered the +5v onto the edge of the fuse and the ground onto the remaining pad. plugged it into an old XP dog and windows recognised it + the brand but thats all

on the back of the PCB, where the contacts are in the pic, is a big chip covering everything so I cant trace anything.

Almost got it, close but no cigar

[SlingShot]

what microscope would be good for doing a job like this ?

I had to use x10 single eye lense and both my eyes are out of sync now and sore

[pcimage]

If you can't get it and need a "chip off" then gimme a shout!

[data-medics]

No need for chip off in this case, it can easily be soldered.

Try using solid wires such as those in CAT5e cable. Dip the wires in flux, then tin them with a soldering iron and some 60/40 solder. Solder them first onto the USB port, plug that into an extension cable, then solder the wires to the board (that way you don't have to move it and have them pop off), and finally plug the extension cable into the computer. I do this all the time.

[fzabkar]

I soldered the +5v onto the edge of the fuse and the ground onto the remaining pad. plugged it into an old XP dog and windows recognised it + the brand but thats all :(

Doesn't this mean that the OP's soldering is OK and that the controller is not brain dead?

Furthermore, if there was a problem with the firmware, wouldn't the device ID as a generic USBest drive rather than the "brand"?

BTW, the PCB markings would suggest that the controller is a UT163-L4.

UT163 Enhanced USB2.0 Flash Drive Controller:
http://opendevices.ru/wp-content/upload ... _UT163.pdf

[HaQue]

try using dmde to make an image of the device, then use software to recover from the image.
ignore all windows msg and just open dmde and see if the device shows in there. if you get I/O errors, your soldering may be ok, but other problems exist.

[Amarbir[CDR-Labs]]

Hi,
Seems like a straight over soldering case if it does not work might be chipoff is the solution

[pcimage]

It's a VFBGA chip, not as straightforward as it looks

[HaQue]

No need for chip off in this case, it can easily be soldered.

Try using solid wires such as those in CAT5e cable. Dip the wires in flux, then tin them with a soldering iron and some 60/40 solder. Solder them first onto the USB port, plug that into an extension cable, then solder the wires to the board (that way you don't have to move it and have them pop off), and finally plug the extension cable into the computer. I do this all the time.

had a few lately with even less damage than that where soldering header back on didnt work. Remember most usb drives are 4 layers, and doesnt take much to damage something somewhere. also each component value is fairly critical, so a resistor or cap not at spec can also stop it working.

often the force required to rip the head off will lift one or more vbga pads, and that is pretty hard to diagnose. reflowing for the average joe isnt easy, likely to have a sea of caps and resistors floating off the board.

a decent DR Tool supported device can be solved in an hour, so while chip off might seem dramatic and less elegant, if you can do it, it is sometimes the easiest and quickest way.

if it recognised the brand, it should mean soldering to those points is ok, but some circuitry between controller or nand isnt kosher, or firmware issue or nand corruption.

[data-medics]

i don't know, those pads look to have lifted straight out. I've found that most often when soldering on a new USB hub isn't working, it's just a matter of using larger gauge and shorter wires. I'm not saying it's impossible that there's damage to the under layers of the PCB, but from what I'm seeing, I'd say it's almost certain that it can be rigged up without chip off.

[Blizzard]

likely to have a sea of caps and resistors floating off the board.

You paint a lovely picture, I could see it in vivid color

[SlingShot]

I'm going to send it to Sean as I cant get it going properly.

What's a good microscope to use for doing soldering work at this level ?

[HaQue]

if you do a search on this forum, we have discussed microscoped pretty good. there is a thread with lots of info

[SlingShot]

if you do a search on this forum, we have discussed microscoped pretty good. there is a thread with lots of info

Thank you, Ill do some digging