Hello,
It seems that i need the precious help of this forum. I am new over here so be kind hehe. As the topic says i have a samsung 1.5TB hard disk and since yesterday its dead hehe.

I cant hear the disk spin up so there is something wrong with it. I thought that it could be some diode that died so I used a multimeter to test the Ohm resistance and it was 1 in both directions. I should mention that i am not an expert so i might not be doing something right but on the other hand its not that hard to measure the resistance ! The only thing that i could say that is weird is that I can hear the platters spinning if i rotate the hard disk which does not sounds all right does it? Could it be a motor issue ?

I dont know where to go on from here so let me know what you think!

Thank you in advance

if the disk is dead then i suspect on the Diode on pcb
measure those diodes and see

attaching an image of ur pcb will help also in the diagnose

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Kuwait Data Recovery - UNIX GTC
The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once. By: Albert Einstein

I already measured the diodes as I said in my post above. Attaching an image of the board since it might help !

By "1", do you mean that the meter was indicating overrange?

Would you be prepared to measure some voltages? If so, upload a detailed photo of your PCB.


Do you mean that you can hear something rattling if you jiggle the drive in the absence of power?

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

I have upload an image but it has to be accepted by the moderators !
Lets confirm that i did this right ! i used the multimeter, set it to 200 Ohm and checked the 2 diodes on the top corner both directions (meaning swaping the +,- right ?). The reading of the multimeter did not change a bit, it was 1.

As for the second question if i jiggle the hard disk i can hear a rattle even in OK hard disk but in this one i can here something rotating inside the hard disk.

I guess i should not have added an external image but instead use the features of the forums.

I was born ready ermmm I mean what else can happen hehe.

I am thinking is the 1. reading form the multimeter in my case that no connection exists between the diodes or its out of range .... Out of range sounds weird
Is it safe to test it with a higher Ohm setting say 2000k ?

Measure the resistance of the zero ohm link ("5V fuse"):
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HD103UJ_TVS.jpg

We are testing for short circuits, so stick with the 200 ohms range.

Now, with the board powered up, measure the voltages between ground and the load sides each of the two 4R7 coils. The relevant pins appear to be the top pin of the middle coil and the left pin of the bottom coil.

Also measure the voltage at the left pin of the black diode located to the left of the 1R2 coil.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

fzabkar you are really the one for this

i like your posts and the way you think got alot from your replies....

_________________
Kuwait Data Recovery - UNIX GTC
The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once. By: Albert Einstein

If this one exists in my board its damn small and both sides have 01.0 measurement almost as it dropped to 00.9 at some point...

As for the rest of the stuff you've lost me, sorry. Is it too much to provide an image with just an arrow of where to stick the probes of the multimeter ! also what setting should my multimeter be set to ?

basic electronics my friend - remember diode positive position

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Kuwait Data Recovery - UNIX GTC
The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once. By: Albert Einstein

Sorry to be a pain but I am not familiar with basic electronics been trying to google to find out about all the terminology that fzabkar uses to move on without annoying you guys but its not simple to get that info as it seems. So yeah i dont really know what it is. Surely is something simple but if you never heard this type of terminology its sounds alien !

IMHO you're doing the right thing by being up-front that you don't know electronics. Much better to say you don't understand and wait for more advice, than keep quiet and give back incorrect results by performing the wrong tests - and then you'd get the wrong analysis. I've been on the receiving end of too many similar situations

FYI there are risks with doing this - one slip of the probes with power applied to the drive, and you could potentially cause damage, so be careful.

I won't interrupt your diagnosis with fzabkar any more, as my approach might be different and duplication of effort is just a waste of everyone's time.

Good luck and, as I said, a good call not to BS what you can & can't do without further help

Cheers for that,
I am here to get help anyway if i knew how to do this i would have done by myself hehe.

So I went on and tested to see if i get the proper Volts according to this schematic (http://pinouts.ru/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml) which i found from an old post of fzabkar. Everything look exactly as the diagram with the difference that my drive has 0V for the 1-3 pins instead of 3.3 but i read this is optional. For the rest 7-9 pin was actually 5.1V and 13-15 about 12V.

I should mention that i dont know what you actually asked me to provide but measuring the Volts on the pins from any of the ground pins is not something that could cause problem so i went ahead and did.

I also measured the voltage from a ground pin to the upper part of the left 12 TVS according to the image you provided (http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HD103UJ_TVS.jpg) and was 12 V. I also did the same for the bottom part of the same 12 TVS and was 0.

I repeated the above for the right 12 TVS again according to your image and this time the upper part was 0 while the bottom part was 5.1

Minor correction that the last measurement on the right. 12 tvs was the 5 tvs. Also measured the 5 fuse and was 5.1 on both sides

Measure the voltages at V1, V2, and Vneg.

Vneg is the negative supply for the preamp.

V1 and V2 are the Vcore and Vio supplies for the MCU and SDRAM.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Hi
I am looking for PCB for my Samsung HD753LJ. My hard drive getting clicking sound and it undetectable. So I thought to replace PCB and give it try. if any one have any opinion what are steps I should take. I am relay appreciate.

Thanks
VD

Won't work.

The voltage at V1 is 0.47 while for the V2 and and Vneg is 0. Thanks for the schematic you are a legend !
Now it all makes sense hehe I can see the 4R7 and 1R2 stuff

What does these measurement tell us though ? That zero thing does not sound good something is not getting power right ? Can check or continuity for that cases. Will wait for your answer first though cause i am probably not saying anything useful here.

Thanks once more for your help

The combo motor controller IC (SH6125B) controls the spindle motor and voice coil. It also controls the three DC-DC converters that generate the V1, V2, and Vneg supplies. The fact that none of the supplies are functional would suggest that either the motor controller is dead, or one of its 12V or 5V supplies is missing.

I would measure the resistance between ground and each of the 3 supplies to confirm that there are no shorted loads.

Would it be possible for you to zoom up on the area in my photo clip? It may help me if I could see the underside of the PCB as well.

BTW, I believe Vneg = -5V, Vio = +2.5V, and Vcore is probably in the range of 1.2V - 2.1V.

Datasheets:

ESMT, M13S2561616A-5T, DDR SDRAM, 256Mbit, 16Mb x 16, 2.5V:
http://www.esmt.com.tw/DB/manager/uploa ... 61616A.pdf

STJ009, 30V, 5A, P-channel Trench MOSFET, AUK Corp:
http://www.lintry.com.cn/spec/17/STJ009.pdf
http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf-dat ... -24387.pdf

B240, 2.0A, 40V, Diodes Inc, SURFACE MOUNT SCHOTTKY BARRIER RECTIFIER:
http://www.diodes.com/datasheets/ds13004.pdf

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A backup a day keeps DR away.