There is nothing wrong with your wiring job.

The extra pin is used as the ID pin for USB OTG (On The Go) devices. It is grounded at the host end, and open at the peripheral end.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB_On-The-Go

USB On-The-Go Basics:
http://www.maxim-ic.com/app-notes/index.mvp/id/1822

USB connector pinout:
http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

I have the same problem with the HDD: it spins, the white LED blinks, but it's not seen as an USB device. I have attached some photos of the PCB and of the connections. I can provide higher resolution pictures, if necessary.

In one of the previous posts, it is said that the problem has been, somehow, solved, but the used could not attach any picture of the repaired drive. Did anyone manage to fix a drive ?

Many users are reporting physical USB connection problems at WD's forums.

Otherwise, if the problem is with the Initio USB-SATA bridge chip, then try swapping the board. However, you will need to move at least one (U12), maybe two (U12 + U14) memory chips to your donor PCB.

U12 stores the "adaptive" data for the hard drive, while U14 is required by the Initio chip.

Your local TV/AV repair shop should be able to do the soldering work for you.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

I was looking at doing the SATA connector for it until I saw the previous post (from fzabkar) that said that the USB could be the problem.

Thanks for all of the information people... my HDD had a faulty USB connector... I rewired and soldered a new connector to it, got my data off it, then put the HDD in the back of my drawer just in case I need to get the data off it again.

I'll see what I can inject back into the forum as a thank you.

Thanks for the help on the forum. Maybe my experience may help some.
I've been getting the dreaded USB device not recognized message. Early on it miraculously connected (once) and like a fool I thought it would do it again, so I didn't take the time to IMMEDIATELY copy off the data. It hasn't connected since.
I ran UVCView mentioned back on 6-27-2010 on this board. My drive showed as "FailedEnumeration : Unknown Device" with device info as follows:

----------------start-----------------
---===>Device Information<===---

ConnectionStatus: FailedEnumeration
Current Config Value: 0x00 -> Device Bus Speed: Low
Device Address: 0x00
Open Pipes: 0
*!*ERROR: No open pipes!

===>Device Descriptor<===
*!*ERROR: bLength of 0 incorrect, should be 18
bLength: 0x00
bDescriptorType: 0x00
bcdUSB: 0x0000
bDeviceClass: 0x00
*!*ERROR: Device enumeration failure
-----------------end------------------
After reading this board end-to-end, I started noticing the occasional theme of "USB connector problem". I figured I'd just push on the USB connector while plugging it in. What do you know? The drive came up.

Now if I can just push on it long enough to copy 500GB of data. Groan! Duct tape anyone?

I love non-technical solutions....

From my experience here and in other places, let me recommend a method of avoiding this kind of problem. Not specifically for disk drives but any relatively expensive piece of equipment with a connector that may be plugged and unplugged a lot. In this case the data is worth a lot not necessarily the disk itself.

When you first get the device, plug the cable into the device and semi-permanently attach the cable to the side of the device (tape, rubber band, whatever). Don't unplug the cable from the device. Instead, use an extension cable, if necessary, to plug in to the end of the device cable. This way you don't flex connectors that can be relatively expensive to replace.

Hello,

My WD10TMVV has issues with the USB connector. Any chance to bypass the USB I/O and connect as SATA directly?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Regards,
John

I have a WD10TMVV - 11A27S2 1.0TB hard drive. I has started to make that wonderful clicking sound and it does not come up on my notebook computer that is running Windows 7 64bit. I have tried running the USB device viewer noted in this thread and nothing comes up. I am not willing to solder stuff to my board. Would it be possible for me to purchase another new drive that is identical to this one and pull the board off of it so I can pull my data off?

Of course it is possible to buy PCB or an identical drive but you won't get a single bit of data out of it as 99% it seems an internal problem , especially if the drive experienced shock.
Moreover, there are a lot of things to consider as a straightforward PCB swap won't work.

(Unless you already know the answers)

I'm curious about this....In the cases where you folks have identified a faulty USB connector, is the device powring up and lighting up the LED or is it the SATA pairs that are the issue?

Hi I have a problem with my drive and want to disable the standby feature and for that I need access to the SATA connector and use hdparm and since I can't do that by USB. If somebody could help me with this, what I'm thinking is to connect it to a SATA so I can modify those values for sure. I have seen that somebody has a solution, but the file is encrypted. Thanks

Hi All,

I have been searching the internet for a thread about this and I am glad that I have finally found it. I have a WD HD that has te same characteristics as most talk about in this forum.

I have studyed the picutres earlier in the Thread to connect a SATA connector but before I did wanted to ask.

I have belled out the Mini USB connected from front to back and also check with a USB cable and this part of it is fine. Which leads me to the question if this is ok then by putting a SATA connector on there would this allow me to access the data off the HD.

I am trying to hunt down another CB to change out the orignal one to see if this helps me any.

The drives is spinning, there is no noises, the light comes on then flashes 3 time, the device manager doesnt pick up anything. Details on the drive WD10TMVV, 1.0TB. The sticker on the back is 71156-T5A-08 TR9Y30MF 32H.

The file " HDD.RAR "that has been up loaded is this helpful information that I should down load to help trouble shoot this HD problem.

Cheers

Hi u guys after searching many forums about usb connections on WD hds, having the same problem a lot of my uni assignments are on the passport hd,
Einstine9 has issued a password to the following

tawfeek_mokhtar
hddguy
ppumkin
BlackST
would one of the above be kind enough to post the same or if you do not want 2 broadcast it on this forum please email me
kind regards
feeblemind

i would really prefer u do some homework and read more about it, its not a secret anyway + this is the gate to hell of problems later which u will know before even knowing it.
google is ur friend

_________________
Every man dies, but not every man really lives...
The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once. By: Albert Einstein

einstine wasted 2 much time on google only alternative is to crack the disk to get my assignments or im f--ed

regards
feeble

Get professional help...

1- its not only me who wasted his time, many here did before/after me
2- good luck cracking - all the best.

subject closed for me thnx

_________________
Every man dies, but not every man really lives...
The only reason for time is so that everything doesn't happen at once. By: Albert Einstein

@feeblemind, what exactly is the problem with your drive? Is it just a bad connection at the USB connector? If so, then ask your local, professional TV/AV repair shop to resolder it for you. You don't need any secret information. This is simple DIY stuff.

If you insist on swapping the board, then you'll need to move the serial flash memory chip at location U12 to your donor PCB. That's a lot more work, and a lot riskier.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

fzabkar
Ive had the same issues with my WD 1TB drive. I tested the usb connection and found that there was no connection to the CB so unsoldered it and soldered on a usb cable. I got the Hard drive to power up and the light Flashed only twice, I went into the device manager under USB and it is still not recognised. The drive is spinning and the LED stays on but not picking it up.

I was going to try and connect the SATA connection to try that do you think that this is worth it, or wasting my time.

is there any way to test the TX-/+ to see if they are in/outputting?

Yes, with a DDA.