I recently fried a Maxtor Diamondmax 21 inverting the polarity of the drive. I heard about those TSV diodes I would like to remove them since I can't find a PCB replacement

Here is a pic of the drive:

http://img2.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p0000003.jpg

Which of those things on the lower right is the one I am supossed to remove?

The one that is shorted.

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take a multi-meter and check them: 0 ohm => remove, else leave it.

Yeah but could you guys point the location of those things on the image? I don't want to be wrong

Two black components, bottom right.

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PC Image Data Recovery
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OK I tested them with a multimeter. The one on the left worked, but the one in the right didn't. However this guy removed the ONLY the other one in a very similar Maxtor PCB. Please see the picture:

http://xdr5tgy7ujmcft67uhgbvvgy75thn.fi ... -board.jpg

http://xdr5tgy7ujmcft67uhgbvvgy75thn.wo ... insertion/

So should I remove the one that is not working or both of them to be sure?

Well, try starting with the one that's not working and see where that gets you.

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You don't have to backup all of your files, just the ones you want to keep.

I read something about testing the PCB without the drive, to avoid possible further damage. Should I do this this way?

How do you plan to see if the PCB is working if it's not on the drive?

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You don't have to backup all of your files, just the ones you want to keep.

mmm, it's not for watching it work, it's because it makes a short circuit again. BUt if it's posssile? What do you guys recommend?

Start it off the drive and observe any factory smoke. If no smoke, take measurements from motor and preamp leads (optional) to determine functionality. Turn off, screw back on hd, and turn on. If the intial problem didnt fry the preamp then its unlikely this will. It will either turn on as if nothing ever happen (backup now) or start clicking (turn off quickly). If your unsure send it to a data recovery company or buy another pcb.

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Buy your friends Toshiba\Hitachi and your enemies Seagate.

...or at least to someone who is able to identify and check an electronic component.
What do you mean by "working"? Non-techs often think everything which does not conduct current is defective.
If you remove the good one and leave the shorted one in, chances are that the non-shorted rail of the power supply runs up and fries the rest of the PCB.
If everything is done correctly, this is probably an easy job.

First of all thanks for all the posts so far guys. I have a doubt:




What kind of measures do you mean?

Sorry for the double post. I can't find the edit button. I mus say thanks for all the help guys, I removed jus one diode (the left one) and it worked. I already backed up all the data. Thanks