Hi Gurus;

Any Guru knows this new toshiba USB?

Maker: Toshiba
Model: MQ01UBD050
Rev: AZA AA00/AX001U
Date: 12nov2012
s/n: y2cct9nuttk8
Spec: 500 GB 2,5" USB

any guru has info about how to convert this USB HDD TO SATA HDD?
any guru knows how to get Serial interface port?


I send Pic

Thanks for your clever responses

another pic about SATA controler

MQ01ABD100

_________________
Hard Disk Drive (HDD), Solid State Drive (SSD, SATA, NVMe, etc), USB Flash Drive and RAID Data Recovery Specialist in Massachusetts

What happens with this drive?

Thanks

It's SATA interface

_________________
Hard Disk Drive (HDD), Solid State Drive (SSD, SATA, NVMe, etc), USB Flash Drive and RAID Data Recovery Specialist in Massachusetts

There are 4 capacitors and 2 parallel Tx/Rx traces at about 2 o'clock to the bridge IC, above the "IC607" circuit reference (DSC03837.JPG). If you would like to convert your PCB to SATA mode, then remove these capacitors and wire your SATA cable to the MCU side.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Thanks another time, you are the best.

i'll do it

ahh, to compare?
thanks

No, to transfer ROM chip on it

_________________
SAN, NAS, RAID, Server, and HDD Data Recovery.

Ahh, Ja ja

To transfer rom. Rigth

Thanks Doomer

The fact of removing capacitors 10uF, not influence the data transfer?

Thanks.

They wouldn't be 10 microfarad.

In any case you need to disconnect the bridge IC, otherwise it would interfere with the data transfer. The purpose of the hack is to bypass the bridge IC and connect the MCU directly to a SATA controller.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Hi folks

I have the same hard drive but plugged it on a damn usb port, and the HD is not working anymore.

As there are important data on it, i took it to some data recovery specialist who supose that an electric overload kill some component...

anyway, they say they may recover the data if we have excatly the same model, to switch either the "plate" (sorry i do not know the english work for the plate on which the usb port and etc are welded), or the magnetic disc.

But it's 2 month now and I still can't find the same model, the new toshiba hd of the "same" model do not have the usb3/sata port welded on the same plate, but is like a normal sata port (i mean you can now plug the hd on any sata port without any dificulties)

Do you guys have any tricks to help me to get my data out of this hell ?

I mean, do you have a plan which might enable me to plug the hd on a regular sata port ? (hopping that the engine of the hd is not dead)

or woud you like to sell me your hd (if it is in working condition) so I can do switch the wrong parts ?

Any suggestions more than welcome

Thank's

Jo

@jbonlinea
1) I am sorry to inform this way, but it sounds like your drive is in trouble. Seems like the specialist is not so specialized, unless you were misinformed or you are misinterpreting what you have been told.
2) What is the full model of your drive?
3) Prior to taking the drive to "the specialist", in your opinion, what exactly happened with the drive causing it to no longer work?

_________________
Hard Disk Drive (HDD), Solid State Drive (SSD, SATA, NVMe, etc), USB Flash Drive and RAID Data Recovery Specialist in Massachusetts

hi and thank's for your quick reply

yes indeed my drive is in trouble, or more importantaly my data

THE STORY OF THE PROBLEM

I plugged thd HD on a "damn" usb port, then if i plug the HD anywhere else, the HD is not showing off, the light is not turning on, etc.
as I am stupid, i also plug my usb voice recorder on this same "damn" usb port, and the recorder in KO as well (actually the device works, but usb is dead, and it smell like burnt)


I opened the plastic case of the HD and saw that the usb3 card was on one single "plate" and that there is no standart sata port on the drive, exactly like on the picture on top of this topic.
So my plan which was basically to put the HD in an other external box sata/usb was imposible.


THE SPECIALIST (I won't name but if you ask as i don't know the policy of the forum in this respect)
As some of these data were important, my office agreed to pay for the repair, so we sent the disk to a data recovery specialist (it is a real one, well know in france, with white rooms, etc...)

basically they said what i already knew, that
-the problem was not logical, but electro-mecanical
-the magnetic disk are probably intact, or worth trying
-the source of the damage is indeed the usb port, maybe an electric overload, but nothing is sure in this respect, it can be many things (but remember it smell like burned)
(we tried with a spare usb3 cable)

the plan of the specialist was to buy a identical model and either :
- swap the magnetic disk in a white room
- sawp the "plate"

now the problem is that we can't find an identical HD but only a similar one.
basically they bought 2 hdd and I bought 2 more and all of them are different, in the sense that the HD has standard sata port, not a weired one peice usb3-sata "plate"

they called toshiba but they were are not able to provide us one identical hdd yet

I checked online, many shops and second hand, but can't find it


THE MODEL

bought on amaz***.fr in november 2012

on the box :
toshiba stor.e Basic 500gb usb3
model (or P/N): HDTB105EK3AA
S/N: 92Q1TW1TTSJ2

also written on the box:
M/N v63700-A

be carefull it is "made in china", not "made in philipinnes" like the ones we get now


on the hard drive the number written is : MQ01UBD050
the hd is still with specialist so i can't give you more detail right now but if i mail/call them I'll get all the other detail you may wish really quickly


with both model number (on the box and on the hd itself) we can't get the right identical hd... since toshiba did not distinguished these two "usb/sata systems" by two models, only by serial numbers... damn...


CONCLUDE
Ok now you know the whole story

any suggestions ?

Thanks


ps:I'll pay the specialist only if the list of data he finaly manage to get fits what i asked for, so i beleive it is a pretty honest system
indeed for now they couldn't provide me any list of data i could get yet but maintain that the data are probably still on the magnetic disk

You should clarify what you mean by this. To me it suggests they want to transfer the internal platters to a new chassis following an electrical surge. If this is the case, then I would be seriously worried. I could be mistaken however and it could simply refer to transfer of electronics board?

sorry i edited my post to many times to edit it again so let me post something i wanted to add


ONE WONDER

i think i understood that the HD itself is also sold as an internal hd, with a standart sata port

so we are speaking about three devices
a) the external hd with the weired usb/sata card (my problematic hd and the one of the topic)
b) the external hd with a regular sata port and a "regular" usb/sata card (sold under the same model than above, the one i bought as spare)
c) an internal hd with the same model number and a regular sata port

am I right, and if yes isn't there a potential solution that we hadn't considered this way



Many many thanks and sorry for the long post

I'm not a 100% sure but i understood, based on what i know of data recovery, so very few

well what igot was that the nedd the same model, try to swap the electronic board ans if i doens't work,...
then
if the "internal platter" are what i call the "magnetic disk", basically where the data 01101... is written, yes... i might be worried, but if between this and nothing... this would be fine for me

but anyway for now the haven't done anything since they say they need the identical model...

@jbonlinea
maybe this information helps:
this HDD is used in a Toshiba Canvio USB 3.0 500GB external Drive (HDTC705EK3AA) that I have bought recently in the online store of the german Mediamarkt. (also available at amazon.de)

If your dive is exactly the same as the one above, then do you see this component in the image, I think it might be some kind of fuse that is blown. If you can test the voltage on either side, it might give you an idea if it works or not, then just replace the fuse or short it with a wire. However, I beleave the fuse acts as a resister as well, so you might overcurrent the smooth chip. Replacing the S component, if its blown, might be your best bet.