Data recovery and disk repair questions and discussions related to old-fashioned SATA, SAS, SCSI, IDE, MFM hard drives - any type of storage device that has moving parts
April 10th, 2009, 5:02
I recently fried a Maxtor Diamondmax 21 inverting the polarity of the drive. I heard about those TSV diodes I would like to remove them since I can't find a PCB replacement
Here is a pic of the drive:
http://img2.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p0000003.jpgWhich of those things on the lower right is the one I am supossed to remove?
April 10th, 2009, 8:42
The one that is shorted.
April 10th, 2009, 12:38
take a multi-meter and check them: 0 ohm => remove, else leave it.
April 10th, 2009, 14:57
Yeah but could you guys point the location of those things on the image? I don't want to be wrong
April 10th, 2009, 15:06
Two black components, bottom right.
April 10th, 2009, 15:41
OK I tested them with a multimeter. The one on the left worked, but the one in the right didn't. However this guy removed the ONLY the other one in a very similar Maxtor PCB. Please see the picture:
http://xdr5tgy7ujmcft67uhgbvvgy75thn.fi ... -board.jpghttp://xdr5tgy7ujmcft67uhgbvvgy75thn.wo ... insertion/So should I remove the one that is not working or both of them to be sure?
April 10th, 2009, 17:06
Well, try starting with the one that's not working and see where that gets you.
April 10th, 2009, 18:37
I read something about testing the PCB without the drive, to avoid possible further damage. Should I do this this way?
April 10th, 2009, 19:03
How do you plan to see if the PCB is working if it's not on the drive?
April 10th, 2009, 19:28
mmm, it's not for watching it work, it's because it makes a short circuit again. BUt if it's posssile? What do you guys recommend?
April 10th, 2009, 19:34
Start it off the drive and observe any factory smoke. If no smoke, take measurements from motor and preamp leads (optional) to determine functionality. Turn off, screw back on hd, and turn on. If the intial problem didnt fry the preamp then its unlikely this will. It will either turn on as if nothing ever happen (backup now) or start clicking (turn off quickly). If your unsure send it to a data recovery company or buy another pcb.
Last edited by
thatdellguy on April 10th, 2009, 19:39, edited 1 time in total.
April 10th, 2009, 19:38
...or at least to someone who is able to identify and check an electronic component.
What do you mean by "working"? Non-techs often think everything which does not conduct current is defective.
If you remove the good one and leave the shorted one in, chances are that the non-shorted rail of the power supply runs up and fries the rest of the PCB.
If everything is done correctly, this is probably an easy job.
April 10th, 2009, 22:33
First of all thanks for all the posts so far guys. I have a doubt:
thatdellguy wrote:If no smoke, take measurements from motor and preamp leads (optional) to determine functionality.
What kind of measures do you mean?
April 10th, 2009, 23:43
Sorry for the double post. I can't find the edit button. I mus say thanks for all the help guys, I removed jus one diode (the left one) and it worked. I already backed up all the data. Thanks
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