PCB swap (4 x samsung)

[url]

So I was googling for samsung PCB swap, and I saw a post from another somethingawful member who had been referred here.

I been stressing over 4 discs since I moved recently. I took extra special care of them when I packed them for the move;
foam wrap, big-air-bubble-wrap and a quality cardboard box.
Then I packed the box out so it was a nice and tight fit.

None are registering since the move;
I've tried them on 2 diff mobo's, 3 diff PSUs, and diff cables too.

I was looking to retire them soon, since they were long in the tooth.
But obviously, I hadn't gotten around to backing them up and hence my problem.

Samsung, 400, 500, 750 & 750 have all stopped working.

I had a PSU problem before the move, so the discs had been idle since then.
I'm not 100% sure, but I think this may have been the cause.
The 400 has a burn on it. (pic attached below)

The other three look fine in my eyes.

The 500 and 2 x750 are still under Samsung warranty until the middle of next year which gives me time to breathe.
But I want the data off them before I RMA.

S13UJ1KQ244xxx HD753LJ INW 2011-06 100 In warranty
S13UJ1KQ244yyy HD753LJ INW 2011-06 100 In warranty
S0UQJ1FPC03zzz HD501LJ INW 2011-03 100 In warranty

My question is this:
the 750's are still quite widely available, so I'm hoping a straightforward PCB swap will do the trick.
the 500 is not available where I have been looking.

Has anyone had any success using a spinpoint F3 pcb on a spinpoint F1?
Is that even the right course of action?

tia, grateful for any help.

Attachments

500 & 750

400 with burn

[BlackST]

Won't work.

[N.C.]

url,

First of all, DROP FAR AWAY the PSU from the first PC where do you have tried out the drives!
Additionally, BlackSt are right, pcb have pre-programmed information is is required for the drive.
Simple pcb swap will not solve your problem.

You need to repair all the pcbs or better to seek for professional help.

I can help as well, if you are interested...

Janos

[zebong]

BlackSt and N.C. are right , you can not simple change the PCB.

you should look for pro help.

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Thanks for the replies, it's appreciated.
Damn!

I already RMA'd the PSU that did the damage, and I can live w/o recovering the data on the 400.
I should have been more clear though; only the 400 has the burn on it, the 500 & 2 x 750's "look" okay.

I have already ordered a 750 of the same type as the ones I have.
I'm guessing it will not cause further issues to try it right?

I figured that the 500 would be the issue since it's the oldest and not generally available.
I replied in this thread for a similar spec 500.

When you say repair the PCB's, have you any idea what is the matter with them?
When you say you can help, can I send on the PCB's to you for repair?

Apologies for the quality of the pics.

Attachments

[BlackST]

Have both HDDs and can recover data even without PCB. If interested drop PM.

[HDD Spaz]

yes most pros can recover both without original PCB. Where do you want to ship, Italy, UK, Hungary? you have plenty of choice.

[networkpc3000]

repair as well if you don't want to send it out.

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thanks for the replies and offers of help, it really is much appreciated.

I've have to take care of a couple of heavy expenses due in the next 2/3 days.
If I could send the PCB's for repairs that would be ideal.

The Data on the HDD's is 9 years of email, databases which have corporate financial information on them that I use for dev purposes, VM's with my banking info and the like.
Thats before photographs, passwords, and all that jazz.

So yeah, ideally, I'd be happiest going a repair route.
Realistically, they're old(ish) discs, and i'll toss them as soon as I've gotten what I need from them.
I need a day or so to run over my expenses and then I'll put PM's to those offering in the thread.

[BlackST]

For PCB repair on Trident & co. in case of MCU failure the drive is also needed ... too many variables (that's why simple PCB swap doesn't work...)

[fzabkar]

Do you have a multimeter?

If so, then measure the resistances of the TVS diodes and zero ohm links near the power connector.

If a diode is shorted, then remove it. If a zero ohm link is open, then replace it with a 2A picofuse or a piece of wire.

If you need more help, feel free to ask. One of us will help you.

[url]

heh, judging by those two replies, the short answer is I'm out of my depth.
I could manage a solder, but realistically, everything else in both yours and BlackST's posts went right over my head.

I've emailed networkpc3000 and I think I'm best leaving it in his hands.
As always, thanks for the replies, I'll update as I know more.