Fried WD10EADS PCB : 2060-701640-001 REV A

I accidentally plugged in the wrong adapter into my 1TB WD10EADS-00M2B0. I took it to a friend of mine which said it was completely fried and that I needed to get a new one. He said I needed that exact one and that sometimes firmware can effect it. I was wondering where I could get one. I need it before Nov. if
possible.

PCB : eSata 2060-701640-001 REV A

P.S. When I turn it on, it starts smoking(burning) at the connection. I unscrewed it and saw that right where the eSata connect was burnt. Also this HDD was in a My Book from Western. Bought it last Nov.

Attachments

Can't really tell much from what you described, but Search TVS diode on this forum

Does the drive spin up at all? You'll need to do more than just replace the PCB; there's adaptive info stored on the board that needs to be transferred. There's a possibility of preamp damage with this one too. Basically, if it's anything other than a TVS issue, you'll need pro assistance with this.

Upload a detailed photo of the component side of the board. One of us will identify the faulty component(s) for you. You will most probably get of trouble with an easy, no-cost DIY fix.

My notes may help you identify the components:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diodes.txt
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HDD_ICs.txt

This article may also help:
http://hddscan.com/doc/HDD_from_inside.html

As always, good luck.

I will do that ASAP. Thanks in advance!

I am curious to watch the follow-ups on this thread due to having an almost identical drive and a similar problem.
Here are the numbers from the board on my 1Tb WD external drive:
Engraved on board: 2060-701640-002 REV A
On the sticker: 2061-701640-402 01PD7 XC A140 0WKL K 0006200 0206

Looking at the graphic in the lead post, the circle next to E9 looks burned....as does mine.

I did take this drive to a local computer repair service. They opened the external case, hooked the drive up to their setup, and could not recover any data due to the unit becoming extremely hot causing them to abort the attempt. They showed me the tell-tell signs of the "fried" component. They did NOT open the actual drive up due to not having a clean room. They were not sure if it is something with the board or internally that they could not diagnose. I did fail to mention to them that the USB plug was inserted the wrong way, resulting in a bent pin (which they were able to see the bent pin when I brought the unit in). But this was done AFTER contacting WD due to the unit turning on and having the power light start flashing after 10 seconds, and having a faint (very faint) clicking sound. This started happening after hearing a large click sound that lead to unplugging the unit quickly. All these problems started after experiencing a loose USB port that would not seat the USB plug (which is why the USB plug went in backwards so easily).Their solution: they sent me a new power plug.

This drive has been the storage of my daughters photos for her college portfolio. There are only a few pictures that she does not have elsewhere....but she would really like to get the "original" files due to being saved in RAW format. Out of all the music, data, and picture files on this drive, she only wants one folder retrieved! However, spending the outrageous prices data recovery places charge is out of the question. One would think that they would offer this service at an affordable price in order to increase business....how many people out there just toss the drive due to the current prices?

OK....enough rambling. Is there any recommendations on what my next step should be?

- No. Without spending, live with it as most probably the problem is head or SA related. This applies IF the drive IS SPINNING and you hear the faint click then nothing else and it is not recognised if connected to a known good PC. If not, it's another thing (importance of correct diagnose seeing the drive !!)

- The USB port has nothing to do with head failure that is quite common on these c....heap WDs.

- Head replacement need special clean room equipment AND there can be something else to arrange after, plus special gear for imaging the drive and get your data

- If the problem is SA related, you need 10'000$ worth of equipment AND the necessary know how to "fix" it.

In my stats, if the symptoms are reported correctly, can be 80-90% head problem and the rest can be SA but for proper diagnose I should see the drive.

Finally :

One would think that they would offer this service at an affordable price in order to increase business....how many people out there just toss the drive due to the current prices?

Have you seen Rolex, Ferrari, or simply hospitals (you live in the USA, right ?) etc. etc. lowering the price to increasing their businesses ? This is niche / specialist market. In any case the cost for such recovery, in average, can be less than replacing a boiler in the house. The way to avoid data loss is simple as A-B-C : backup, backup, backup....

Regards.

the3dwiz wrote: Also this HDD was in a My Book from Western. Bought it last Nov.

What type if My Book it was?
WD Elements Desktop , My Book Essential or My Book Elite ?

Last two has WD SmartWare system.

Can you upload a detailed photo of the component side?

This example has a burnt motor controller chip (SMOOTH):
http://www.powerbitsforum.be/e107_files ... FT0_wd.jpg

Wasn't sure if you were requesting pics of my WD board, or the original poster......anyways, here are pics of both sides:

If you wish to try a replacement PCB, then be prepared to transplant the 8-pin serial EEPROM chip at U12, just above the Marvell MCU (big "M"). This chip stores unique drive specific information.

If the clicking is due to stiction, then see this thread:
http://forums.seagate.com/t5/FreeAgent- ... 242#M11384

Hi,

I have a WD10EADS-11m2b1 that was in an external enclosure...I also blew it by plugging in the wrong power supply and now it is not reading in the bios, obviously this is not working in any of my enclosures also.
So here is the question

When I put a very similarly numbered and looking PCB (not the same but close) onto the drive it spins, but doesn't seem to properly recognize the drive geometry, I can see the drive in bios on my PC and via the enclosure on my mac using TESTDISK but I don't know where to go from there. the drive will not mount at all. I have considered doing a deep scan with testdisk but don't want to damage the drive...and not sure that it is even reading the drive.

Would it be a good bet to swap over the EEPROM as suggested above by fzabkar? Or is there a chance that the power stage of the board is faulty do you think?

Cheers for any help this drive has a lot of work on it that I moved off old drives and typically I had not had a chance to clone the backup yet. Hence I am truly devastated.

There are people on the web saying even matching PCBs will not necessarily work would this be due to the EEPROM contents?

Again thanks in advance for your help people.

fzabkar wrote: If the clicking is due to stiction, then see this thread:
http://forums.seagate.com/t5/FreeAgent- ... 242#M11384

This is a WD drive not a Seagate. All hard drives have different type of common failures, applying theoretical Seagate recovery techniques to a WD is not a good idea. Nor is applying Samsung 2'5 inch recommendations to a 3'5, since it's a totally different architecture. Further more, opening up a WD drive in general is a very bad idea. for the OP sake, please don't mix apples with oranges.

Check D3 and D4 for shorts, and R67 and R64 for open circuits. You can remove any shorted diodes, and replace any open resistor with a wire link. If the damage has been restricted to these components, then the board should work OK after doing the above. Just be sure your PSU is good, as you will no longer have any overvoltage protection on the affected supply rail(s).

Alternatively, you can transfer U12, or its contents, to the donor PCB.

The following vendor offers a PCB and firmware transfer service for between US$50 and US$70:
http://www.hdd-parts.com/firmware-transfer.html

Thanks I really appreciate the advice it is nice to know that there are truly altruistic people in the world. I will have a look with the multimeter and see what I can find. Will keep you posted.

Fingers crossed.

quasimodo wrote:
fzabkar wrote: If the clicking is due to stiction, then see this thread:
http://forums.seagate.com/t5/FreeAgent- ... 242#M11384

This is a WD drive not a Seagate. All hard drives have different type of common failures, applying theoretical Seagate recovery techniques to a WD is not a good idea. Nor is applying Samsung 2'5 inch recommendations to a 3'5, since it's a totally different architecture. Further more, opening up a WD drive in general is a very bad idea. for the OP sake, please don't mix apples with oranges.

Not to mention that if it was stiction, it wouldn't be clicking in the
first place, and if it's clicking, it isn't stiction.

Sorry please excuse me if this is a silly question:

So the clicking is caused by what exactly? Is it generally a motor controller that is blown? I work in music recording and regularly stream 10 gig on and off drives a day....they are obviously not equipped for this as I have quite a few old clickers. Could these be repaired easily?

I am guessing that Solid state drives will not have so many issues ...perhaps the extra cost would be worth it? Any thoughts?

Regards my WD10EADS

I have tested the diodes and the resistors that you suggested fzabkar and it is looking like D3 is not passing current under the diode test on my multimeter. The other power diode(D4 I think but not labeled properly is working.

I am getting:

D3 no diode-like activity...over 100KΩ resistance(probably from the rest of the circuit)
D4 Normal diode continuity as expected
R64 266KΩ
R64 Pretty low resistance something like 10Ω Can't read it exactly with my multimeter (Wilkinson's finest for you non-British that shop is part of Wal-Mart chain)

So I am feeling like I should power up the board with the D3 bypassed with wire...or should I use another diode? I have a wide selection. Should I power up the board with the drive attached or not.

Again this help so far has been great..I don't have the kind of funds to take this for data recovery so the advice is very much appreciated.

Your feedback is confusing.

Firstly you don't differentiate between R64 and R67.

Secondly, I'm wondering whether you understand what "normal diode continuity" means. I say this because you suggest that "D3 [can be] bypassed with wire". Perhaps one of the data recovery professionals can explain to you why this is wrong. :-)

Anyway, can you please confirm the resistance of D4, R64, and R67?

Steve wrote:
quasimodo wrote:
fzabkar wrote: If the clicking is due to stiction, then see this thread:
http://forums.seagate.com/t5/FreeAgent- ... 242#M11384

This is a WD drive not a Seagate. All hard drives have different type of common failures, applying theoretical Seagate recovery techniques to a WD is not a good idea. Nor is applying Samsung 2'5 inch recommendations to a 3'5, since it's a totally different architecture. Further more, opening up a WD drive in general is a very bad idea. for the OP sake, please don't mix apples with oranges.

Not to mention that if it was stiction, it wouldn't be clicking in the
first place, and if it's clicking, it isn't stiction.

If you carefully read mrswires' post, he states that the drive became extremely hot in the area of E9 which is near the SMOOTH chip.

He also writes about "the unit turning on and having the power light start flashing after 10 seconds, and having a faint (very faint) clicking sound".

What you and I would term as "clicking" may not be what mrswires was hearing. He may instead have been describing the sounds one hears when a drive is having difficulty spinning up. This, and the fact, that the motor controller was heating up, suggested to me that his drive was suffering from stiction. Furthermore, the initial loud click may have been an emergency retract.

Apologies for that fzabkar I think I was getting confused between advice here and on another forum. I see that you have suggested removing the shorted diodes.

After following some other advice I have checked my circuit again and I am getting:

D3 seems to not pass current .

D4 Seems to be shorted and is passing in both directions. Not good it seems

R67 looks to be open circuit

R 64 266K

Cheers

Fried WD10EADS PCB : 2060-701640-001 REV A

Fried WD10EADS PCB : 2060-701640-001 REV A

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