Data recovery and disk repair questions and discussions related to old-fashioned SATA, SAS, SCSI, IDE, MFM hard drives - any type of storage device that has moving parts
September 13th, 2010, 4:32
Hello, I plugged a wrong power plug into my WD10EADS (Western Digital 1TB Essential External) (19v instead of 12v) and now my drive wont work.
I went to the store to buy another and lucky me I got a black wd instead of the cavier 'Green' one (same packaging just different internal hd) that is broken. I planned on swapping the electrical boards to retrieve my data from the broken one but unfortunatly this did not work as the 'big' board from the new 'black 1TB' is different from the 1TB'green' one and so are the drives too slightly although the mini board is exactly the same and the mini board from the broken one works in the new 'black' 1TB one aswell.
So I narrowed down the problem to the 'big board'. When I put the big board from the new 1TB drive on the old drive, the drive spun up but the comp didn't recognise it so I'm qute sure the problem is narrowed down to the big board only. I cannot see any obvious damage.
I have read other threads on this topic and have found out that this doesn't work anyways (just swapping boards) what I need to do is locate the TVS diodes D3 and D4 that are talked about. I cannot find these. Can someone show me and also what else I have to do to repair this drive and recover my data thanks
WD10EADS - SATA - 32MB Cache
03 May 2010
WWN : 50014EE2047AA79E
DCM : HGRNNT2CGB
DCX : 8025M2721
LBA : 1953525168

September 13th, 2010, 7:03
Top right, I can see at least D3 is indicated on the PCB and D4 is the other almost identical component to the right of it.
September 13th, 2010, 8:16
And it is very generally marked with an internationally recognised diode symbol >|
September 13th, 2010, 14:36
Test them first, if they are bad you can try to remove them, replacing is better. You can get by with removing them for recovering data off them. But beware that this can also cause more damage to your drive if you have another short or power issues on this one. Check the TVS that pcimage indicated here for you. See what your reading are on them. Then go from there on this one. There are tons of posts here that can help you and assist you and give you information. Use search and you will find them all for you.
September 14th, 2010, 5:07
almost your power IC (U1) is died.so you need another pcb with the same number 2060-701640-xxx
now you have new compatable pcb . you have to take the rom ic (U12) that is near the two diode and plug it in same place in the new pcb , it will work ok
September 14th, 2010, 5:10
Congratulations.
September 26th, 2010, 18:24
Just to confirm, a simple snip of D64 (the resistor R64 was fine) fixed this hard drive enough to get my data off it and to take it back for a new one and haha the new exchange one was a black caviar. Thanks for your help
January 15th, 2011, 7:19
Hello I have had the exact same problem as 'W00dy' by putting the wrong power supply into the same external hard drive (also 19v instead of 12v). However my diode 3 (D3) seems to be busted (test via muiltimeter).
I think that is the problem, if so do I replace it and if so with what. All the diode says is
5L with 9A on top.
(NOTE D3 located next to D4 in top right in W00dy's picture)
It would be very apreciated if I can recover my data with someone's help.
Thanks.
January 15th, 2011, 17:13
The diagnosis doesn't make sense. External HD enclosures usually pass the +12V supply straight to the drive, without further regulation. This means that diode D4 should have failed. The +5V supply is derived from a switchmode regulator inside the enclosure. This regulator should be able to easily withstand the 19V input.
Could you confirm your measurements? The "5L" marking indicates a TVS diode with a working voltage of 5V. It can be substituted with an SMAJ5.0A from Farnell, Mouser, Digikey, and maybe RS Components.
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