Data recovery and disk repair questions and discussions related to old-fashioned SATA, SAS, SCSI, IDE, MFM hard drives - any type of storage device that has moving parts
December 3rd, 2010, 14:47
Hi all,
I just signed up to ask for some advice please. I accidently put 19v through my external HD which killed it. After reading some advice online I removed a d3 diode which brought the drive back to life (with correct 12v power supply).
However, now the drive goes 'spin click, spin click, spin click'
Can anyone recommend what I might try next to resolve it? Is it worth trying a replacement PCB?
Many thanks!
More info on the drive:MDL: WD10EADS - 00L5B1
DATE: 14 JUL 2009
WWN: 50014EE1572FBD89edit: Just thought i'd add that there's no obvious damage to the PCB:

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December 4th, 2010, 4:40
Are you sure D3 was the diode you removed? That's the 5V TVS diode. The usual culprit is the 12V TVS diode (D4). The 5V supply is down-converted via a switchmode regulator on the bridge board inside the enclosure. Therefore the drive's 5V input doesn't normally sustain any damage.
Have you connected your drive directly to a computer motherboard?
When you say 'spin click, spin click, spin click', does the drive actually spin up to full speed, and is the clicking sound coming from the heads?
BTW, if you replace the PCB, then your supplier will need to transfer the unique, drive specific, "adaptive" data in the Marvell MCU (big "M") from patient to donor.
December 4th, 2010, 15:58
Most probably you've got preamp fried as well, and if so, it needs to replace full head stack.
But that is a job done only by a pro, specially on WD drives.
December 4th, 2010, 16:14
It was actually the d4 that I removed, not the d3.
Worth trying anything else with this PCB?
December 4th, 2010, 19:07
callmecheez wrote:It was actually the d4 that I removed, not the d3.
Worth trying anything else with this PCB?
You could power up the PCB on its own and measure the onboard voltages, especially the supply to the preamp. That should tell you whether a board replacement has a chance of working. If you zoom up on the coils in the area near the SMOOTH chip, I should be able to help you identify the test points.
If you go for a board swap, you will probably pay about US$50, plus $20 for a firmware transfer.
December 4th, 2010, 19:59
In this case it is not worth it. The drive powers on spins, clicks, spins click, spins clicks. This is a head stack issue now. Even if you buy a PCB you will not get access to your data. You over voltaged your preamp in this one from the sounds of it and now your heads can not align correctly that is why it is clicking when it spins. I am sure if you had tools it would repart this 3 times and then stop the spindle motor on it. WD heads are very touchy and need special handling on them sorry to say this one. But do not waste money on a new PCB board your problem is internal to the drive now on this one.
December 5th, 2010, 3:25
There is a small chance but require a check with professional tools to definitely exclude / assume / circumvent the problem.
December 6th, 2010, 4:39
So, you should take your drive into a DR company.
December 6th, 2010, 4:45
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO !!! What did you say !!!
December 6th, 2010, 4:53
It is true! As people say: truth sometimes it's painful
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