Data recovery and disk repair questions and discussions related to old-fashioned SATA, SAS, SCSI, IDE, MFM hard drives - any type of storage device that has moving parts
March 1st, 2011, 7:31
I think I burned the PCB problem is that the hard drive is 1.0TB
was there a lot of important documents, how do I recover them?
The solution is to buy a new PCB?
I leave here a picture of the state of the PCB, I think that is the visible color change

best regards
March 1st, 2011, 11:13
Once again : my hdd got some overvoltage. 20V instead of 12V
Check TVS (D4,D3) and the fuses (R64,R67)
With overvoltage, normally, one of the diodes is defect.
http://www.enp-beratung.de/downloads/WD10EAVS_1TB.pdfOn my HDD, D3 was defect, we removed it with a standard diode and the disc was running again.
Expense : 10 Euro ....
Kind regards
Heinz
March 1st, 2011, 12:16
First of all thanks for the reply
Could tell me where are located TVS (D4, D3) and fuses (R64, R67)
Thanks again
Best regards
heinzrm wrote:Once again : my hdd got some overvoltage. 20V instead of 12V
Check TVS (D4,D3) and the fuses (R64,R67)
With overvoltage, normally, one of the diodes is defect.
http://www.enp-beratung.de/downloads/WD10EAVS_1TB.pdfOn my HDD, D3 was defect, we removed it with a standard diode and the disc was running again.
Expense : 10 Euro ....
Kind regards
Heinz
March 1st, 2011, 12:30
Ur picture is component side down. Cant see anything. IF you talking about that rusty color - dont worry. Some oxidation. Happens and its is not ur culprit. What happens to the drive when u apply power to it ? Does it spin?
March 1st, 2011, 13:48
heinzrm wrote:On my HDD, D3 was defect, we removed it with a standard diode and the disc was running again. [my emphasis]
That did not completely translate into clear English, unfortunately.

Do you mean that you
replaced the damaged TVS with a standard diode (i.e. remove TVS and install standard diode instead)? If so, then just FYI, a standard diode will not offer any overvoltage protection, which a TVS would do.
March 1st, 2011, 14:45
>> What happens to the drive when u apply power to it ? Does it spin?
YES
March 1st, 2011, 15:37
If your drive is spining, but doesn't work, there is no DIY problem what you can solve.
Seek for professional help, if your data is important.
This is not a TVS issue.
Janos
March 1st, 2011, 15:38
Not asking you, asking the OP. I dont even know what are you doing in this thread Heinzrm.
March 1st, 2011, 18:26
Sorry, i have missed that.

Anyway, this was a general notice....
Janos
March 1st, 2011, 19:43
my disk is external and only when I turn the light appears to blink several times and will not start
Alexii wrote:Ur picture is component side down. Cant see anything. IF you talking about that rusty color - dont worry. Some oxidation. Happens and its is not ur culprit. What happens to the drive when u apply power to it ? Does it spin?
March 2nd, 2011, 4:23
As Alexii said, remove the PCB and show us a photo of the component side. D4 and D3 will be near the SATA power connector.
March 2nd, 2011, 4:40
if working PCB i have it in stock and be able to help you do firmware transfer.
March 5th, 2011, 0:45
There doesn't appear to be any visible damage. Can you hear or feel the drive spinning up or trying to spin up?
If the drive has been overvolted, set your multimeter on the 200 ohms range and measure the resistances of the components marked D3, D4, R64, and R67. These are located near the SATA power connector.
March 5th, 2011, 9:40
first of all thanks for the reply
when I turn on the USB disk when he turns on the light and blink
experimented with other connector
when I turn the indicator light just goes off, turn off the connector and the light comes back on
fzabkar wrote:There doesn't appear to be any visible damage. Can you hear or feel the drive spinning up or trying to spin up?
If the drive has been overvolted, set your multimeter on the 200 ohms range and measure the resistances of the components marked D3, D4, R64, and R67. These are located near the SATA power connector.
March 5th, 2011, 17:08
good news
I could put the hard working
I called him directly to the PC and was working, was probably the USB connector that broke
Thanks PCLAB
Obrigado PCLAB
March 6th, 2011, 14:36
You're welcome.
De nada.
March 7th, 2011, 4:14
Hello all,
I know this is an old post, but I am having the same issue with the exact same hard drive.
I plugged in the wrong power pack and seem to have blown the PCB.
I have checked the diodes, D4 seems blown - diode check on multimeter beeps in both directions.
D3 I cant tell - diode check on multi is SILENT in both directions...
Question 1: what values should I receive from D3?
Question 2: When I check R64 and R67 using a multimeter, what values should I be getting?
I am getting 0.3 or 0.4 ohms. As far as resistance goes, it may as well be a straight cable, but if used as a fuse, then this shows that it is still intact...
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
March 7th, 2011, 5:06
The resistors should measure 0 ohms, so they are OK. Just remove D4 and the drive should work. However, be aware that your drive will no longer have overvoltage protection on the +12V rail, so be certain your supply is good. For continued protection you can replace the diode with an SMBJ12A from Farnell, Mouser, Digikey.
March 7th, 2011, 8:31
Thanks fzabkar! I do intend to replace it with a SMBJ12A, as I dont want to risk blowing the hard drive.
As for D3, is it normal to record a SILENT result in both directions? Ohm test returned upwards of 1 Mega Ohm, but this tapered down to approx 0.2 Mega Ohm as I kept the multimeter on (maybe 30 seconds or so). This happened for both directions.
Thanks in advance, really appreciate your help!
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