Failed Maxtor 6L250S0 recovery

[krampus]

I have one Maxtor DiamondMax 10 6L250S0, code BACE1G20 (controller chip 040125400, board no. 302071101) which developed some problems and I couldn't recover my data with any conventional methods.
Disk is recognized by computer BIOS correctly but it wouldn't boot. When XP is booted from the live cd, partitions on the disk can be seen in disk manager but it can't be accesed from the explorer. Booting linux live cd shows I/O errors and buffer read errors booting up. SeaTools failed at 40% when a runnning short test and says SMART is tripped. I did hear some scratching noises during the test. SMART viewer shows 6 relocated sectors, a lot of bad and weak sectors. Also it shows that number of 203 (Run Out Cancel) errors is exceeded. I tried running HDAT2 to check and repair the disk but this didn't work out well - verify always gives "command not supported" errors and the process is painfully slow. It seems that drive is not responding well to the commands and has some communication/buffer problems.
I was thinking that maybe the problem is in PCB so I wonder if changing it would make any difference.
Professional recovery services are out of the question (for now), but if there is a fairly simple way to recover my data (like changing a PCB) I would certainly try it.
I would appreciate if someone is willing to help in diagnosing and finding a proper DIY recovery method for this poor HDD. Btw, drive is "Refurbished to MAXTOR Specifications (2)".
Thanks.

[Vulcan]

Disk is recognized by computer BIOS correctly but it wouldn't boot. When XP is booted from the live cd, partitions on the disk can be seen in disk manager but it can't be accesed from the explorer. Booting linux live cd shows I/O errors and buffer read errors booting up.

These results shows that the disk at least partly readable, and since you've decided to take the risk of DIY, I suggest you consider using ddrescue (or alternative cloning software, if you prefer) to get a clone of the raw disk (i.e. not using filesystem access at this stage)?

I was thinking that maybe the problem is in PCB

Based on the behaviour you describe, a PCB problem is very unlikely IMHO.

[krampus]

Thanks for the answer. I tried to access data with some tools but disk simply stops responding after few seconds and the system needs to be rebooted to access it again. I will try your suggestion, maybe my luck will change.

Do you think this is a mechanical problem rather than PCB?

[BlackST]

Sorry for bringing bad news, but if the "bad areas" are placed on regular pattern OR the drive completely hangs hitting one of these "bad" areas and the bads are consecutive UNCs + many slow LBAs the problem is "elsewhere" and all these attempts with DDRESCUE and co. will lead sooner or later (more sooner than later) to a BRICKED drive.

P.S. PCB is 99% fine.

[Vulcan]

@krampus:

Thanks for the answer. I tried to access data with some tools but disk simply stops responding after few seconds and the system needs to be rebooted to access it again. I will try your suggestion, maybe my luck will change.

Now that you have given this specific information about the disk behaviour, then I am not hopeful about the results of using ddrescue. If the disk did not stop responding, then your chances of success would be higher...

Trying a reverse clone would be one possibility. We know that LBA 0 is readable - that's why you could see the partitions on your disk - so other regions might also be readable without special equipment. However, there are certainly risks that these attempts to read from the disk might make the situation worse (and could make any later recovery attempts by a pro become more difficult/expensive), which is why I explained that I was only making that suggestion after you had already decided to accept the risks of DIY.

Do you think this is a mechanical problem rather than PCB?

As I said, and as BlackST has agreed, with your symptoms a PCB problem is very unlikely - which addresses your original point about this.

If you are now changing your mind and deciding not to take the risks of DIY, then you could just put the disk in an antistatic bag (preferably with a dessicant bag of silica gel), and wait until you have saved the money to use a pro. There are recommended pros from this board in mainland Europe (e.g. Hungary) as well as the UK, if you make that decision.

Good luck with whatever you decide

[krampus]

I will give it one more try with reverse clone. Otherwise I have to look for some silica gel.
Thanks for helping, you saved me from spending money on PCB...