Data recovery and disk repair questions and discussions related to old-fashioned SATA, SAS, SCSI, IDE, MFM hard drives - any type of storage device that has moving parts
September 14th, 2011, 6:41
I've got a Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 but it wouldn't start spinning at all. So I bought a smiliar drive, same P/N, firmware and MLC.
Then I replaced the PCB with the new one. Now you can feel the motor starting to spin after. But after a few seconds it stops. There are no strange noises like clicking of the headset of something like that.
Does anyone have an idea? Or can I check some parts by measuring with a multimeter?
I've attached a picture of the broken hard drive. Within a few hours I'll add more pictures of the new one and both PCB's.
- Attachments
-

- This one is 'broken'.
September 14th, 2011, 6:54
Hi,
There's a few options.
Or may be only a problem with PCB, but it's not good enough to swap the PCB. You need also to move some other things.
Or else it might be even that what caused PCB to collapse has damaged preamp also, and in that case it's much more complicated.
If your data is important, be very careful with what you do.
September 16th, 2011, 14:01
What other parts do I need to move?
September 16th, 2011, 14:32
September 17th, 2011, 16:40
You can try to swap 25F chip at your own risk and if your data is not that important.
September 19th, 2011, 17:02
This F25 DIP-8 contains the firmware?
September 21st, 2011, 16:35
Contains a very small portion of important FW addresses.
September 23rd, 2011, 3:40
If it doesn't spin with the right PCB but spin with the wrong, before to try swapping eeprom, you should test your TVS diodes. Quite easier to repair.
October 10th, 2011, 18:47
I did measure the TVS diodes, they are
SATA PWR conn | DATA conn
---------------------------------
|1|----2----|3|
1= 21,9K
2= 21,9K
3= 9,97K
1= small TVS, vertical placed (L14?)
2= small TVS, horizontally placed, (ES8?
3= big TVS, vertical placed (ST GP982?)
Can you help me further on?
October 13th, 2011, 4:14
The diodes appear to be OK.
There appear to be 3 switchmode DC-DC converters. One will be the Vcore supply, another will be Vio (+2.5V), and the 2 coils nearest the SATA connector probably form a Cuk converter that provides -5V for the preamp.
Can you measure the voltages at each of the 4 coils located at each corner of the motor controller IC (OA56511)? Use SATA power ground or a screw hole as your zero reference.
October 14th, 2011, 17:50
So I've got two PCB's, so I measured them both:
PCB 1:
SATA CONN
_______________
Coil 1-------------Coil 2
(+5,16V)---------(-5,04)
................IC..............
Coil 3-------------Coil 4
(+1,309)---------(+2,683)
PCB 2:
SATA CONN
_______________
Coil 1-------------Coil 2
(+5,16V)---------(-5,06V)
................IC................
Coil 3-------------Coil 4
(+1,29V)---------(+2,628V)
Ofcouse I connected the COMMON to the screw holes and V to the coil plate at the PCB.
Thank you!
October 14th, 2011, 19:00
All three supplies appear to be OK.
I believe your only feasible DIY solution is to move the flash chip as suggested.
October 15th, 2011, 8:16
Be really carefull when removing the chip on the new pcb not to damage board contacts and other components. If it's your first time, would be really better to find some older PCB and have some trainning before…
October 17th, 2011, 6:35
I swapped both IC's but still no working hardrive. So I think my next step will be buying one more, exact PCB. With all the same numbers; P/N, MLC, FW and building date.
Then I'll give it a try for the last time. Or are there still any other options? (Except professional DR)
October 17th, 2011, 6:57
what do you mean there by "no working". You said in the first post than when swapping PCB it was spinnig. Is it still the case after swapping IC ?
May you please give a pic of your PCB with IC swapped ?
October 17th, 2011, 7:13
Well, It is spinning once, at start-up. Then it stops. So, it would keep spinning till complete start-up.
- Attachments
-

- New PCB with old NVRAM
-

- New PCB with old NVRAM
October 17th, 2011, 8:42
If the drive spins up to the point of comming ready, then spins down again (i.e. does NOT come ready) with NO abnormal sounds, then this is most probably an NVRAM issue (quite common in these drives). If so, you will need specialist tools and knowledge to fix this as it's not DIY'able.
October 17th, 2011, 16:13
If you want, we can help with this case.
Dobre
October 17th, 2011, 16:49
Marvin wrote:I swapped both IC's ...
Did you really change 2 ICs, or are you counting removal and replacement as 2 operations?
October 17th, 2011, 19:48
I did removed the old IC from the old PCB (original one). Then removed the IC from the new PCB, placed the old IC at the new PCB. So both removed and then placed one back.
Dobre, can you send me a PM with more information or any of your options?
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