Problem with Seagate ST31000340NS
March 2nd, 2012, 19:10
Hi everyone!
Couple weeks back I came home from a business trip to my wife & sister inlaw saying the computer was acting funny. I turn it on, and it freezes up and shuts down 10 minutes later. Some quick diagnosis I discover that my boot drive has a lot of failed blocks (SSD). So I run to the store and buy a quick rebuild kit (as my system was 6 years old).
All said and done, new mobo, power supply, ram and a new SSD. Assemble everything, power up, install Win7 on the new SSD. Attach my onboard NAS (box that holds 3x sata drives in a raid setup), and power up the system again.
I add in the new drives 1 by one (hot swap ability). First one spins & powers up. Raid software finds it. Throw in the second one, there's an electrical 'pop' sound and the computer goes dark. I remove the drive and it powers up fine.
I shut down again, insert the drive on a sata port (not in the raid assembly) and the computer doesn't turn on. No power, no beeps, it just sits there. Remove the drive, it powers up fine.
I bring it to the office and plug it into a drive dock (ac power, usb connection). Nothing. IT doesn't spin up or run.
So now this leads me to believe that this drive's PCB failed. The drive is a Seagate ST31000340NS. The PCB shows the following on it.
UJAJ-6
PCB 100466824 Rev A
I'm unsure if I just need to buy the board & swap the 8pin (ROM and firmware) chips to the new PCB, or if I need to have the whole drive shipped out for hte PCB to get replaced.
Anyone recommend somewhere i can do this? This drive was my backup drive (as I was trying to restore my data) with family pictures, movies, music and documents on it.
Couple weeks back I came home from a business trip to my wife & sister inlaw saying the computer was acting funny. I turn it on, and it freezes up and shuts down 10 minutes later. Some quick diagnosis I discover that my boot drive has a lot of failed blocks (SSD). So I run to the store and buy a quick rebuild kit (as my system was 6 years old).
All said and done, new mobo, power supply, ram and a new SSD. Assemble everything, power up, install Win7 on the new SSD. Attach my onboard NAS (box that holds 3x sata drives in a raid setup), and power up the system again.
I add in the new drives 1 by one (hot swap ability). First one spins & powers up. Raid software finds it. Throw in the second one, there's an electrical 'pop' sound and the computer goes dark. I remove the drive and it powers up fine.
I shut down again, insert the drive on a sata port (not in the raid assembly) and the computer doesn't turn on. No power, no beeps, it just sits there. Remove the drive, it powers up fine.
I bring it to the office and plug it into a drive dock (ac power, usb connection). Nothing. IT doesn't spin up or run.
So now this leads me to believe that this drive's PCB failed. The drive is a Seagate ST31000340NS. The PCB shows the following on it.
UJAJ-6
PCB 100466824 Rev A
I'm unsure if I just need to buy the board & swap the 8pin (ROM and firmware) chips to the new PCB, or if I need to have the whole drive shipped out for hte PCB to get replaced.
Anyone recommend somewhere i can do this? This drive was my backup drive (as I was trying to restore my data) with family pictures, movies, music and documents on it.
Re: Problem with Seagate ST31000340NS
March 2nd, 2012, 19:46
TVS
Search it
Search it
Re: Problem with Seagate ST31000340NS
March 4th, 2012, 11:34
pcimage wrote:TVS
Search it
Agree 100%
Re: Problem with Seagate ST31000340NS
March 4th, 2012, 17:02
Re: Problem with Seagate ST31000340NS
March 20th, 2012, 12:09
So I tested the TVS diodes. One of the gave about teh same reading (24ish) either direction. The other just displayed the 1 on the screen (indicating overranged). Now if this means the diode is bad I'm not sure.
Re: Problem with Seagate ST31000340NS
March 20th, 2012, 19:01
Remove the diode. If it measures the same out of circuit, then it is faulty. Otherwise you have a different problem.
That said, a "shorted" TVS diode normally measures much closer to zero ohms. You should confirm that your higher than expected reading isn't due to high resistance in your meter leads or your meter's selector switch. To this end you should observe the reading when you touch your probe tips together.
That said, a "shorted" TVS diode normally measures much closer to zero ohms. You should confirm that your higher than expected reading isn't due to high resistance in your meter leads or your meter's selector switch. To this end you should observe the reading when you touch your probe tips together.
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