Swapped PCB - drive spins up , not recognized. BIOS issue?

[kcroy]

I swapped out PCBs for my WD drive - drive spins up, no clicks - but it is not recognized. I think it is showing in my BIOS as a 0g drive (there is a blank space with no name in the bios where the drive should be).

I did NOT swap out the bios chip, as there is not a separate chip for it, and I am not skilled enough to swap the main IC.

Does this sound like something swapping chips would resolve? Would the drive spin up properly with the wrong BIOS?

Any help appreciated.

[BlackST]

This is where Internet DIY show its limit...

[kcroy]

Definitely, and I have several professional drive recovery options available to me. But before I send off my drive for a $1500 recovery, I'd like to see what I can do first.

I lost 3 drives last week - I've recovered 2 of the drives I lost so far - 1 WD (same type different model) with a PCB swap, and my Seagate with a PCB swap + BIOS chip.

On Monday, I will hire someone to swap the main IC for me, since I lack the soldering skill. What I am wondering is if this will make a difference - if the drive is spinning up, and BIOS partially sees it... could it be a HDD BIOS issue still?

Thanks again for any feedback!

[fzabkar]

Firstly, you don't need to pay more than US$800.

See http://myharddrivedied.com/hard-drive-recovery

Secondly, if you need to transfer your drive's firmware to another PCB, then there is a PCB supplier who includes a free "PCB adaptation service":
http://www.donordrives.com/services

Did you lose all three drives at the same time, in the same system? If so, then the fact that two of the drives had PCB damage suggests that your third HDD may be similarly affected (although it doesn't sound like it).

BTW, it may help us to know the model number of your mystery HDD. There are also some DIY diagnostic options in the following thread:
not-recognized-harddrive-t22923.html

[kcroy]

Firstly, you don't need to pay more than US$800.

See http://myharddrivedied.com/hard-drive-recovery

Thanks I will include them in my list.

Secondly, if you need to transfer your drive's firmware to another PCB, then there is a PCB supplier who includes a free "PCB adaptation service":
http://www.donordrives.com/services

Yes - Their only matching drive is $200 however - I was able to purchase a matching PCB for $80. I was hoping that like the other WD drive, matching PCB would be enough.

Did you lose all three drives at the same time, in the same system? If so, then the fact that two of the drives had PCB damage suggests that your third HDD may be similarly affected (although it doesn't sound like it).

Yes, all 3 drives went out from the same event, and I assume that (at least) the PCB was damaged, as there is an obvious burn on the Smooth chip.

Why does it sound like the 3rd is not the same issue?

BTW, it may help us to know the model number of your mystery HDD. There are also some DIY diagnostic options in the following thread:
not-recognized-harddrive-t22923.html

[/quote]

Thanks - I will review that thread.

2060-701622-000 REV P1
88i8846-TFJ2
SMOOTH L7251 3.1
WINBOND W9425G6EH-5

http://imgur.com/Qd6Tr

Would the drive spin up properly with the wrong firmware? I am hoping that I can resolve that tomorrow by swapping the IC from old PCB to new.

Thanks again!

[kcroy]

[edit] my other message was sent for moderation, perhaps because I included links to photos of my card. So I'm not ignoring your other comments.. just waiting on a moderator

You commented in the other thread how a drive showing 0kbs cannot be recovered via software means. What does it indicate is broken?

My current drive is showing 0.0 G in BIOS.

2060-701622-000 REV P1
88i8846-TFJ2
SMOOTH L7251 3.1
WINBOND W9425G6EH-5


Thanks!

[fzabkar]

Sorry, I was confused by your other WD drive. Apparently you were successful with a straight PCB swap. That is unusual.

As for the subject drive, yes you will need to transfer the adaptive data to your replacement board. That's probably the reason that it is reporting a capacity of 0GB. If you still have no luck, then the drive may have a firmware fault, in which case the DIY options in the other thread may help.

BTW, what caused the failures of your 3 PCBs? Were these failures related? Is there any visible damage? What were the fault symptoms?

[kcroy]

Sorry I wasn't more clear Thanks for your feedback!

I do not know the exact reason for my drive failure, but I believe it was my power supply. The PSU was several years old (Thermaltake 750). Sometimes when I would shut my computer down, it would not restart... I would need to unplug / plug it into the power supply.. and then it would start up. I have now read that this is a symptom of a bad power supply.

I shut my computer after installing updates - in the morning it would not start up. I attempted to plug/unplug several times, but eventually after researched, realized I needed new PSU.

When I plugged in the new PSU, 4 of my drives were dead - 3 HDD + 1 DVD. The PCB on one of the HDD showed obvious burns. 2 of my hard drives were not affected ( I think they were on a different rail ).

Most important question I haven't asked: How do I prevent this from happening again!

[fzabkar]

Your post was perfectly clear. It was my error. Sorry.

The usual result of a PSU fault is a shorted TVS diode, in which case the quick fix is just to remove it.

See http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

There are numerous photo clips here:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/bi ... diodes.jpg

[kcroy]

The usual result of a PSU fault is a shorted TVS diode, in which case the quick fix is just to remove it.

See http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

There are numerous photo clips here:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/bi ... diodes.jpg

I'll check these out!

For the chip swap on my PCB... Is it the 88i8846-TFJ2 chip that I will want to swap to the new board?

http://imgur.com/O3iph

Thanks again for your help!

[fzabkar]

For the chip swap on my PCB... Is it the 88i8846-TFJ2 chip that I will want to swap to the new board?

http://imgur.com/O3iph

Normally, yes.

Unfortunately the SMOOTH motor controller is damaged on the side that controls the onboard DC-DC converters. AFAICT, it is quite possible that your preamp is damaged, in which case a board swap will be pointless. It could also be that your MCU may be damaged.

If you have a multimeter, set it on the 200 ohms range and measure the resistances between ground and each of the L1 and L2 coils. This will tell you if there any short circuited loads.

To test for a shorted preamp, measure the resistances between pins 2,4, and 6 at connector J1 on the HDA (not on the PCB). They will be the ground and positive and negative supply pins.

[northwind]

1. Successful change of the M chip is VERY difficult even for someone who is extremely skilled. I can smell smoke from down here.

2. The maximum recovery cost suggested above by the so-well suggested link is PLUS PARTS. If pre-amp is bad, then head swap is necessary. So, forget $800.

3. On the other hand, $1500 for a pcb swap (in the event preamp is ok) is outrageous. So is $800+parts.

[fzabkar]

3. On the other hand, $1500 for a pcb swap (in the event preamp is ok) is outrageous. So is $800+parts.

A PCB swap, including a free "PCB adaptation service", should cost no more than US$50.

See http://www.donordrives.com/services

[northwind]

Not always. In fact, your example is the exception.

[BlackST]

3. On the other hand, $1500 for a pcb swap (in the event preamp is ok) is outrageous. So is $800+parts.

A PCB swap, including a free "PCB adaptation service", should cost no more than US$50.

See http://www.donordrives.com/services

Who will pay the difference if it's gonna cost more than US $50 ?

[unknown]

The drive.

[lcoughey]

3. On the other hand, $1500 for a pcb swap (in the event preamp is ok) is outrageous. So is $800+parts.

A PCB swap, including a free "PCB adaptation service", should cost no more than US$50.

See http://www.donordrives.com/services

$50 is ridiculous, unless the person you are getting it from is not planning to stay in business for long.

Why is it that people seem to think that it is wrong for companies to make money for the services they provide? The only way for a business to grow and for employees to have a job is if the business charges more than their cost to offer the service. It is generally accepted that an employee should generate at least 3 times their salary for a company to come ahead. The longer I have been in business, the more I have learned to understand and accept that this is reality.

[BlackST]

All it takes is send a message to them and ask a FINAL CLARIFICATION about what they mean for "free adpatation" or "swap". One thing is swap or ICP a 4 pin SSOP chip, another is REGENERATING a ROM from service area (where possible) or moving a BGA chip or try to read a partially working MCU.

P.S. seems it is needed to send the original drive/PCB back and forth for this "adaptation" . Other costs and risks involved.

[kcroy]

All it takes is send a message to them and ask a FINAL CLARIFICATION about what they mean for "free adpatation" or "swap". One thing is swap or ICP a 4 pin SSOP chip, another is REGENERATING a ROM from service area (where possible) or moving a BGA chip or try to read a partially working MCU.

P.S. seems it is needed to send the original drive/PCB back and forth for this "adaptation" . Other costs and risks involved.

Yes - that is part of what makes me uncomfortable.

I have found a local chip assembly company with the proper equipment and qualifications to do the swap for me for $75 USD. I will get it back this afternoon, and see how it goes!

[kcroy]

For the chip swap on my PCB... Is it the 88i8846-TFJ2 chip that I will want to swap to the new board?

http://imgur.com/O3iph

Normally, yes.

Unfortunately the SMOOTH motor controller is damaged on the side that controls the onboard DC-DC converters. AFAICT, it is quite possible that your preamp is damaged, in which case a board swap will be pointless. It could also be that your MCU may be damaged.

If you have a multimeter, set it on the 200 ohms range and measure the resistances between ground and each of the L1 and L2 coils. This will tell you if there any short circuited loads.

To test for a shorted preamp, measure the resistances between pins 2,4, and 6 at connector J1 on the HDA (not on the PCB). They will be the ground and positive and negative supply pins.

Wish I had seen this before I dropped it off! If it doesn't work, I will give this a shot. Hopefully the preamp and MCU are ok... I know it is a bit of a gamble to spend the $75, but we will see!