Help needed, with Western Digital model WD10TPVT, 1TB

[foxfix]

I have a HP Envy 17" 3D Notebook bought 2 years ago, it was custom built with dual WD hard drive, model WD10TPVT, 1TB capacity, they partitioned as separate drives: C, and D under Windows7 Home 64bit, Its the D drive that failed recently, and C drive is working perfectly. When I boot into HP system tools for hardware diagnostics, occasionally the system does detect the 2nd (the D) drive. And full diagnostic testing on this drive found no errors (see attached picture). But most other times system boot it does not see the 2nd drive. And whenever boot into Windows7, the system just don't see the 2nd drive. Since then I ordered from HP spare drive (HP part# 603788-001) but this new spare drive comes in as Samsung drive instead of Western Digital drive.
I was able to make disk copy of first drive (drive C), but I am unable to make copy of 2nd drive, as booting the laptop computer it does not recognize.

This model of HP HP Envy 17" 3D Notebook usually runs hot, so I often put a heatsink on the left side, and one day I decided to add some icecube on top of the heatsink to help dissipate the heat the computer generates, I left computer do download a file, the next day I noticed a warning: "....system detected hard drive imminent failure...". so turned off and check the computer, I noticed melted ice leaked down and some moisture condensation built up in the hard drive bay. Cleaned up and turned back the computer on, it works but the D drive never come back. I am pretty sure its the PC board on the 2nd drive is the problem, switching the PCB board from 1st drive onto 2nd drive, the computer recognize the 2nd drive, but it makes buzzing sound - sounds like motor inside trying to spin then stop - this is my guessing. I realize switching the PCB board is not enough, as the ROM needs to be transferred as well, but I gave it a try anyway.

I am in Texas DFW area, I looking someone to help me to find a place who can transfer the ROM or adaptation so I can restore my data on the 2nd drive, I prefer someone locally so I don't have to to send drive back and forth. I am willing to pay reasonable fee for the service, but not an extortion amount some recovery service companies typically quote.

Western Digital Model: WD10TPVT-65HT5T1
DCM: HBBVJBNB
DCX: 1st drive: 6H15T5853, 2nd drive: 6H15T5550
PWB imprinting version: 2060-771672-004 REV A,

Front Side

Attachments

HP diagnostic tool occasionally sees the 2nd drive and testing was successful. but most time does not see this drive

WD10TPVT-65HT5T1, Backside

[Cleanroom]

The buzzing sound is not a PCB issue, but the failure of the board could of caused it. I have a feeling the board shorted out, and the heads got stuck to the platter since it could not park them correctly before shutdown.

So with almost 99% certainty the pcb/rom swap will not work to fix it 100%. It will only fix the partial issue.

I am in Austin can help you out. But I am not sure what you are expecting for a cost to fix it.

Plus if the heads are stuck to the platter there is a chance they were damaged by the sudden stoppage. So even moving the heads off will not allow the drive to work until new parts are put into the drive.

If it is worst case scenario and the PCB is bad and the heads are bad, be prepared to spend around a grand (give or take a couple hundred depending on who does the work)

If the heads can come off clean without any deep clean room work, maybe 500-700 for a full recovery.


I know there are reputable places in the Dallas area, so just look around. But data recovery places will not do a half job. They will do everything till they have data to show you. Not fix it and then give back to you for the data recovery since problems can arise after the fix.

PS.... Ice is not a good cooling mechanism for electronics..

[foxfix]

The buzzing sound is not a PCB issue, but the failure of the board could of caused it. I have a feeling the board shorted out, and the heads got stuck to the platter since it could not park them correctly before shutdown.

So with almost 99% certainty the pcb/rom swap will not work to fix it 100%. It will only fix the partial issue.

I am in Austin can help you out. But I am not sure what you are expecting for a cost to fix it.

Plus if the heads are stuck to the platter there is a chance they were damaged by the sudden stoppage. So even moving the heads off will not allow the drive to work until new parts are put into the drive.

If it is worst case scenario and the PCB is bad and the heads are bad, be prepared to spend around a grand (give or take a couple hundred depending on who does the work)

If the heads can come off clean without any deep clean room work, maybe 500-700 for a full recovery.


I know there are reputable places in the Dallas area, so just look around. But data recovery places will not do a half job. They will do everything till they have data to show you. Not fix it and then give back to you for the data recovery since problems can arise after the fix.

PS.... Ice is not a good cooling mechanism for electronics..

First, thanks for your response.
You said "..I have a feeling the board shorted out, and the heads got stuck to the platter since it could not park them correctly before shutdown."
I inclined to agree with your first part, but more likely moisture corrosion causing intermittent connection problem rather than shorted, as I can see some visible sign of corrosion on the PBB board then I cleaned it and let it dry for about a day before going further testing

And I doubt the "... heads got stuck to the platter", because the buzzing sound is heard only when I switched PCB board from a good drive (without transferring the ROM, right now I don't have experience or tools to do this, whats why I am trying to find someone to help)
With the original PBC board on the drive, the failed drive appears silent - I don't hear anything at all in computer.

Besides, after 2nd hard drive failure, I booted into HP system diagnostics tools many times, most time the computer cannot detect or see the 2nd drive, however there were 2 or 3 times the computer detects the 2nd drive and I ran test on the 2nd drive in the HP diagnostics tool, when I see 2nd hard drive found no problems for the first 15 or 20 minutes or so, I cancelled the test then boot into windows - but into windows7, then the D drive is always missing. So when next time I got the HP diagnostics tool recognize the 2nd drive, I run a full hard drive test it took about 10 hours, and that test was successful, it did not find problems (see the screen capture showing hard drive test result in my previous post).
then I reboot into Windows7 again, the D drive is still missing, then reboot back to HP diagnostics, the computer does not detect the 2nd drive. Retried many times rebooting into HP diagnostics tool,
the it just doesn't detect the 2nd drive now.

[foxfix]

Ok, after watching yutoub how to do ROM swap, I guess I will give a try on my own now.
Would someone recommend de-soldering tools ?

After some online searching I found this All X-Tronic tool looks attractive.
http://www.amazon.com/X-TRONIC-9020-XTS ... B00A2VQA24
Are there any better ones out there for just de-soldering and re-soldering ?

Also can someone please confirm the chip on the PCB board, the Winbond 25X40ALNIG / 0933, marked as U12 is the correct ROM chip to switch?
Appreciated.

Attachments

For ROM chip extraction and re-soldering, any better tools out there than this?

X-TRONIC-9020-XTS.jpg (9.89 KiB) Viewed 17613 times

Which is the excact ROM chip to make a donor board?

[fzabkar]

There are PCB suppliers who will transfer U12 for free. Otherwise, your local TV/AV repair shop should be able to do it for a nominal fee.

There are free tools that will allow you to read your existing U12 chip, so you don't even need to send your original PCB away. In fact, if your other PCB is identical, then you may be able to temporarily reprogram it and restore it afterwards.

[foxfix]

There are PCB suppliers who will transfer U12 for free. Otherwise, your local TV/AV repair shop should be able to do it for a nominal fee.

There are free tools that will allow you to read your existing U12 chip, so you don't even need to send your original PCB away. In fact, if your other PCB is identical, then you may be able to temporarily reprogram it and restore it afterwards.

Excellent information! thanks a million! Please, could you elaborate a bit more, which tools allow me to read existing U12 chip? I am willing to buy one so I can at least back up a copy of ROM for safety. Now I am a bit more paranoid without a back up. Any comments where to buy and what model and your experience using such ROM reader would be greatly appreciated!

Another question about ROM reader, do I have to remove the ROM from the PCB board in order to read the data from it, or it is read with the chip still on board?

Yes, in deed on ebay I found a couple of sellers of WD WD10TPVT, who do free transfer, but when I called them they say they won't read my ROM to reprogram what they sell into a donor board, they will however de-solder my U12 chip and re-solder onto the board they sell. I feel the process is quite dedicate and heat from de-soldering could damage the U12 chip data. Am I understanding correctly? Thanks again.

[northwind]

Negative.
Buzzing sound means other problems not related to pcb.

What Cleanroom was saying is that your drive has a pcb problem AND other problem that needs clean room work.
So even if you successfully change the pcb and transfer the rom, it won't work because you would have solved 1/2 of the problem.

[fzabkar]

You could use NazYura's tools to read the "ROM" in situ.

http://nazyura.hardw.net/000006.htm
http://nazyura.hardw.net/Mavr_fl.zip

There are also other, much better software tools. Watch for my PM.

If you cannot read the ROM using software, then a flash/microwire EEPROM programmer and SOIC/SOP chip clip will only cost you around $20 - $30.

http://malthus.zapto.org/viewtopic.php?f=110&t=85&p=98

The PCB suppliers that I recommend, and who will do free firmware transfers, are ...

http://www.onepcbsolution.com/
http://www.hdd-parts.com/

Assuming the PCB is only part of the problem, if at all, then your best DIY approach would be to clone your drive, sector by sector, using a tool such as ddrescue.

The safest approach is to clone your drive sector-by-sector using a tool (eg ddrescue) that knows how to work around bad sectors, and then use data recovery software on the clone.

Ddrescue can perform multipass cloning. It clones the easy sectors on the first pass, and attempts the more difficult ones on subsequent passes. It can also clone your drive in reverse, thereby disabling lookahead caching. It keeps a log, allowing it to resume after an interruption.

Ubuntu Rescue Remix:
http://ubuntu-rescue-remix.org/

Install Ubuntu Rescue Remix to a Flash Drive:
http://www.pendrivelinux.com/install-ub ... ash-drive/

Clone a failing Windows hard disk with ddrescue on Ubuntu Rescue Remix:
http://keystoneisit.blogspot.com/2011/0 ... -with.html

[foxfix]

Thanks again for your valuable information, but I have encountered some issue when I tried some of your suggestions, see below

You could use NazYura's tools to read the "ROM" in situ.

http://nazyura.hardw.net/000006.htm
http://nazyura.hardw.net/Mavr_fl.zip

First, I downloaded the Mavr_fl.zip, the program refuse to run in Windows7 64bit system. So I moved the drive using a SATA-USB adapter
and connect it to a older Windows XP (32bit) system, Windows XP detects my drive (the working drive), but the program doesn't seem to be able
to read anything, even if I played the command options a bit. Guessing from the command help info, it seems to me this program was written for IDE drive.
And the MAVR_FL.COM program file showing date stamp of August 22, 2005, so perhaps this utility is too old for nowadays drives?
And command help info does not seem to support SATA drives.
Please let me know if someone were able to retrieve WD U12 file from the flash using this or any other utility out there.

There are also other, much better software tools. Watch for my PM.

If you cannot read the ROM using software, then a flash/microwire EEPROM programmer and SOIC/SOP chip clip will only cost you around $20 - $30.

http://malthus.zapto.org/viewtopic.php?f=110&t=85&p=98

very useful info, but seems getting complicated and a bit confused now. I have never used a EEPROM programmer in the past, but willing to give it a try.
so what kind of EEPROM programmer best for reprogram WD U12?

And thanks again for all the useful information, so right now I am trying to getting computer recognize the hard drive first. So replacing the PCB board
and the transfer the U12 contents or U12 chip is the first step to do. I am still trying to find the right tools to do this....

[foxfix]

Ok, I just ordered a model EZP2010 EEPROM programmer, and also an 8pin IC connector clipper.
Will see what happens in 2 weeks - as it will take some time for items to arrive.

Many thanks to fzabkar who provided valuable info, also thanks others who took time and responded with thoughts and suggestions.

Will get back to you about my results in about 2 weeks or so - I am not in hurry to get my data back, as long as I don't lose them.

[fzabkar]

NazYura's tools were in fact written for IDE drives, but they still work for SATA drives, up to a point. You just need to configure the SATA controller in BIOS for legacy IDE mode or IDE compatibility mode. This should make the SATA drive look like a PATA. MAVR_FL looks for drives on the old ISA ports, 0x1F0 or 0x170.

You could also retrieve the ROM contents using MHDD version 4.5. Once again you would need to configure the SATA controller for IDE mode on the secondary IDE port. There is a script on the following page:

http://yura.puslapiai.lt/files/wd/mhdd/

I could help you with the above if you like, but you would need to be more than just a point-and-click user.

There is also a third tool. Did you see your private message? If you are unable to communicate with me, then please feel free to repost your question to other storage forums where I hang out.

BTW, to answer your question, yes, there are several people who have managed to read the ROMs on their SATA drives using MAVR_FL and MHDD.

[foxfix]

NazYura's tools were in fact written for IDE drives, but they still work for SATA drives, up to a point. You just need to configure the SATA controller in BIOS for legacy IDE mode or IDE compatibility mode. This should make the SATA drive look like a PATA. MAVR_FL looks for drives on the old ISA ports, 0x1F0 or 0x170.

You could also retrieve the ROM contents using MHDD version 4.5. Once again you would need to configure the SATA controller for IDE mode on the secondary IDE port. There is a script on the following page:

http://yura.puslapiai.lt/files/wd/mhdd/

I could help you with the above if you like, but you would need to be more than just a point-and-click user.

There is also a third tool. Did you see your private message? If you are unable to communicate with me, then please feel free to repost your question to other storage forums where I hang out.

BTW, to answer your question, yes, there are several people who have managed to read the ROMs on their SATA drives using MAVR_FL and MHDD.

Dear fzabkar, you have been so kind and patient with my ignorance in hdd recovery, its my first time doing hard drive repair/recovery, and your information is very helpful.

If you'd pm me your paypal account, I'd like to paypal to your account a small amount just to express my appreciation your time and input.

Best regards

[Cleanroom]

The mismatched ROM will not cause the buzzing noise. It would of still spun up.

The original PCB will not spin the drive due to a shortage, when you put the like board on you get the buzzing and it is sitll not spinning to speed.

I cannot be 100% sure, but I am almost 99% sure that the heads are parked on the platters, or stuck between the head ramp and platter. Both of which would prevent spinning of the platters to speed.

I hope I am wrong so you do not need to open the drive, but be prepared that after you fix the pcb with the right rom, it still will not work.

[fzabkar]

The OP has two identical boards, so there is no shortage.

In any case, not every electronic fault is due to a "shortage".

As for the heads being stuck to the platters, the OP's testing would tend to discount that possibility, would it not?

So when next time I got the HP diagnostics tool recognize the 2nd drive, I run a full hard drive test it took about 10 hours, and that test was successful, it did not find problems (see the screen capture showing hard drive test result in my previous post).

ISTM that the drive does not have media problems, but it may have some intermittent spinup problem, and possibly a logical problem that prevents Windows from seeing the file system. The original PCB appears to have an intermittent fault. At one time the OP states that "with the original PBC board on the drive, the failed drive appears silent."

[fzabkar]

If you'd pm me your paypal account, I'd like to paypal to your account a small amount just to express my appreciation your time and input.

Thanks for your generosity, but I have never accepted any money in any of the forums I've participated in over the years, not even "crazy" money, as one person put it.

In any case, you may still not be able to solve your problem without paying someone. Best of luck anyway.

[foxfix]

I am back now, has been away for a while, and now I got EZP2010, and a X-TRONIC 9020-XTS HOT AIR REWORK SOLDERING IRON STATION
will update the recover process soon.

[foxfix]

Switching PCB board and eprom flash chip failed to resolve the problem, I am still getting buzzing sound from the drive upon power on.
Can anyone help from here? I am willing to pay for data recovery. Thanks!!!!

[foxfix]

The mismatched ROM will not cause the buzzing noise. It would of still spun up.

The original PCB will not spin the drive due to a shortage, when you put the like board on you get the buzzing and it is sitll not spinning to speed.

I cannot be 100% sure, but I am almost 99% sure that the heads are parked on the platters, or stuck between the head ramp and platter. Both of which would prevent spinning of the platters to speed.

I hope I am wrong so you do not need to open the drive, but be prepared that after you fix the pcb with the right rom, it still will not work.

Hi
It seems you were correct. After switching to a new PCB board and Winbond flash ROM chip W25X40ALNIG, I am getting buzzing noise from the drive, the sound is low and high buzz 5 times (attached sound recording) I suppose this indicates the WD drive in stiction. As fixing hard drive stiction requires clean room operation, its now beyond my capability.
Are you willing to do repair / recovery for me? I am willing to pay for your service - if you have access to clean room environment and have experience in data recovery. Thanks!