Hitachi Deskstar HDS722525VLAT80 not seen in bios

[opera341]

Hello, my old

Hitachi Deskstar HDS722525VLAT80 ATA/IDE
p/n: 14R9249
MLC: BA1140
CHS: 16383/16/63
s/n: cfdk9tkd
barcode: 14r9249ba11400s48

is not seen in bios anymore. It was working quite well, and now I cannot see it anymore. I did chip one data pin at some point on it but that has been fixed and it was working again. Also there may have been a power surge at the time of failure (electrical company cut the power to the whole block) but I am cannot be sure this is exactly what happened.

Thanks.


PS. IF you think a new pcb would solve my problem (i suspect it would) pls direct me to where I can get one and which one exactly to get. Thanks.

[labtech]

Does the drive still spin when it is powered on? If yes, then what does it do afterwards (clicks? beeps? etc.)

[opera341]

due to other vibrations inside my case I cannot be 100% sure but I believe it does not spin. Also even after a long time plugged in it does not heat up. (but it did cause a blue screen in windows -some mus.sys or smth.-). Which means if it caused blue screen in windows, it must do something in there....


PS. No other sounds have yet some out of it . No clicks or beeps and as far as I remember it used to be a pretty silent drive in the first place and would properly vibrate only if under heavy use.

[labtech]

I am just asking to listen/feel carefully as that is a free of damage action as oppose to doing other tests, which can cause damage, especially if inexperienced.

I you can't remove the drive and pull a SATA power cable from your machine out so you can prop your ear against the drive to listen and feel, then a stethoscope may help.

[opera341]

I edited my previous post and am also answering here, following your advice I pushed my ear heavily against it and there is no spin vibration or sound coming from it.

[labtech]

ok, if you have access to a multimeter you can run some tests. High chance a voltage protector failed.

Can use the search in the upper right corner for many threads on this topic.

[opera341]

I do have access to a multimeter but, on my hdd I do not know where to place the +/- pins. (google was not helpful on this issue)

Also, if this is the problem, can it be easily fixed?

[fzabkar]

Does your PCB look similar to this one?
http://malthus.zapto.org/viewtopic.php?f=112&t=103

[opera341]

you are correct. It is almost identical to the first pcb in that foto. I am upping a picture of the hdd right now. The quality is not great my phone only has a 2mp camera. If you need it clearer let me know and i will do my best. thanks.

Attachments

[opera341]

another one with slightly better light.

Attachments

[opera341]

any1 still around?

[fzabkar]

Sorry, I can't make out anything in your photos. In any case I can't see any "voltage protector" on my PCB. If you wish to try a new PCB, then be aware that you will need to transfer the NVRAM chip. That's U5 (S93C76) in my photo.

[opera341]

ok, thanks for answering. I will get a better camera and take another photo today.

Can you point out with an arrow where is u5 on the first pcb in the picture you have sent? Thanks.

Also, if you can point out on the first picture where the voltage protectors are, I can probably map it to my own pcb and then would be able to test it. thanks.

[opera341]

nevermind, i found S93C76.

the other question stands.

[opera341]

before i search for a better camera, I found the exact production number of my pcb online.
Can you please point out the voltage protectors?

Also, in order for this pcb to work with my hdd I have learned that I have to change the chip which is left of the label r30, namely remove the one on my pcb and resolder it to the new pcb. Right? is that all I have to do or do i need to replace other parts as well?

the link: http://pcb-hdd.com/hdt22525vlat80-14r92 ... -1122.html

thanks.

[fzabkar]

Can you please point out the voltage protectors?

... I can't see any "voltage protector" on my PCB.

Also, in order for this pcb to work with my hdd I have learned that I have to change the chip which is left of the label r30, namely remove the one on my pcb and resolder it to the new pcb. Right? is that all I have to do or do i need to replace other parts as well?

the link: http://pcb-hdd.com/hdt22525vlat80-14r92 ... -1122.html

Before you order the PCB, ask them what they mean by "for data recovery purposes". Does it mean that the board is readonly? Does it mean that, after you've recovered your data, the board will not be suitable for normal everyday use? After they give you their reply, ask them which chip(s) you need to change and whether they will do it for you. Ask them whether their PCB is a match for yours.

BTW I'm not a data recovery professional.

[opera341]

okay, thanks. will do. I would also not know what voltage protectors are or where they would be on my pcb. the first poster mentioned them and that is about it. He also said i could use a multimeter to verify whether the voltage is the only problem that i have. I hope a professional will give me some insight on this. thanks fzakbar, you have shed some light nevertheless.

[fzabkar]

TVS diodes are most often used as "voltage protectors".

See http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

... and http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/ (photo clips)

As I've told you twice already, there are no "voltage protectors" on my PCB, and the same would no doubt be true in your case. Early HDDs did not have any overvoltage protection.

[labtech]

Sorry, I intended to suggest to run tests in a more general sense. I did not or could not think off the top of my head what that specific PCB has or not.

As I mentioned before there is a lot of info on PCBs on the forum and other online resources posted by other members. I do not think I could carry out elctronics tests with somebody online, specifically where results could be ambigous, which can result in round arounds and waste of time.

Personally, if the resources are available, I prefer adapting a working PCB.

[opera341]

Hi, I have one more question:

Tomorrow I am getting a multimeter and will be able to verify the tvs diodes. I am wondering, in case somebody with experience, has allready done this, should the tvs diodes actually be the culprit, would it be ok to simply replace those? I have other hdd's which have been bricked, and I suppose I could remove the respective diodes from them and attach them to my pcb. Does that seem like a sensible solution? thanks.


ps. btw, fzakbar your resource with pics and info was very helpful, thank you

@labtech: you are right, and i really do not mean to be presumptuous however, this is a forum and, in many cases, for a newbie, it is much easier to ask a straightforward question than to look through thousands of posts. A newbie would probably be so intimidated by this task he would not even know where exactly to start. But thanks your insight on spins vs does not spin was obviously helpful. I really believe this may be a very simple issue and I could fix it quickly but a professional or at least somebody who has "been there - done that" will diagnose the problem in a fraction of the time it would take me to look at hundreds of threads. (and also he would probably diagnose it more accurately nevertheless). thanks.


pps. no i did not look at punctuation i am currently too tired to do that. grammar nazi pls go away.