Compatible PCBs for WD HDD

[Makabu1]

Hi,

the PCB of my HDD broke and I decided to get a new one. However I accidentally got a new PCB with the number 2060-771960-001. The old PCB had number 2060-771960-000.
Can I still transfer the BIOS chip from the broken one to the new one and expect it to be compatible or should I get a new one with 2060-771960-000?

Left one is the broken PCB, right one the new PCB I got

Thanks

[ddrecovery]

That PCB will be good.

[Dananjaya]

That PCB will be good.

+1

[digisupport]

+1 that PCB will work just fine.
What "broke" on the old PCB ?

[Makabu1]

Awesome, thank you for the quick reply!
Not a native speaker, so broke is maybe the wrong word in that context. I had a powercut and after I plugged the fuse back in the hdd stopped working. You can see it is burned in the top left corner.

[fzabkar]

You can see it is burned in the top left corner.

That doesn't look like damage.

Oxidisation on Western Digital PCBs:
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=86&t=649

Does the drive still spin up after the power cut?

The only difference between the two PCBs appears to be the 5V TVS diode.

Attachments

No_TVS.jpg (106.67 KiB) Viewed 10347 times

TVS.jpg (105.81 KiB) Viewed 10347 times

Last edited by fzabkar on July 23rd, 2019, 17:55, edited 1 time in total.

[ddrecovery]

You can see it is burned in the top left corner.

That doesn't look like damage.

Oxidisation on Western Digital PCBs:
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=86&t=649

Does the drive still spin up after the power cut?

I have only ever seen this oxidization on WD 3.5" drives. I have never seen it on a 2.5" drive.

[data-medics]

I have only ever seen this oxidization on WD 3.5" drives. I have never seen it on a 2.5" drive.

I've seen it on occasion. Certainly not a common on 2.5" models, but it does come up at times.

[fzabkar]

I have only ever seen this oxidization on WD 3.5" drives. I have never seen it on a 2.5" drive.

That's strange. I've always thought that the oxidisation problems were due to materials changes mandated by RoHS. If that's true, then one would expect that such changes would have been applied to WD's entire product lineup. :?

[ddrecovery]

I have only ever seen this oxidization on WD 3.5" drives. I have never seen it on a 2.5" drive.

That's strange. I've always thought that the oxidisation problems were due to materials changes mandated by RoHS. If that's true, then one would expect that such changes would have been applied to WD's entire product lineup.

I can also reference my own experience. I am not sure if it has anything to do with temperate or environment. This oxidization was very prominent with the older black 3.5" WD drives. Not so much these days, but it is more prominent if the drive has been run at a higher temperature ie in an enclosure stored with the air-flow vents blocked. This oxidization would go hand in hand with the foam backing showing signs of burning. This does not seem to happen with 2.5" drives (Jared obviously has seen some though).

[Makabu1]

You can see it is burned in the top left corner.

That doesn't look like damage.

Oxidisation on Western Digital PCBs:
http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=86&t=649

Does the drive still spin up after the power cut?

The only difference between the two PCBs appears to be the 5V TVS diode.

It doesn´t spin up at all. I cleaned the contacts and they look brand new now, but it is still not working. I will replace the PCB and swap the bios chip and see if it works then.

[Makabu1]

Update: It worked and I was able to recover all the data. How save is it to keep using the hard drive now? Is it only a matter of time before it fails again or can I keep it as a backup drive?

[ddrecovery]

Update: It worked and I was able to recover all the data. How save is it to keep using the hard drive now? Is it only a matter of time before it fails again or can I keep it as a backup drive?

The drive should be okay to continue using it. HOWEVER, BACKUP, BACKUP, BACKUP.

[Makabu1]

Yes, I learned my lesson. Thanks to everyone for the help!