Seagate Ironwolf Controller Swap

[sting11165]

I'm really happy to find this forum! This seems like a great community and I've been reading through the archives.

So, I've got three 10TB Ironwolf drives (ST10000VN0008) and I'd like to try to see if I can fix one or two. I don't care about any of the data on these (retired Chia drives I'm moving to my NAS).

Drive 1: this one locks up the PC / generates a lot of error messages. Slightly strange noises from it. I've written this one off but assume it is a physical issue.
Drive 2, 3: I roasted these today because I used the wrong modular power cable. Standard PSU overcurrent symptoms (fans give a little spin up and stop). No burnt smell or anything. When I got the right cable installed the computer booted up fine but didn't recognize either drive. Replacing the drive (using same cables) showed it was the drive. I assume I damaged the controller board / overvoltage protection and something is open-circuit.

Question #1: Is it possible to switch the controller board from Drive 1 to Drive 2 to get it to work again? I know I will lose the data (I don't mind that) but I'm assuming there is also specific physical calibration data programmed into the board so it wouldn't work or I could be risking damage. The swap is easy, I just don't want to risk it.
Question #2: What did I likely damage based on the symptoms/board photo?
Question #3: Any other ideas? Thankfully I didn't lose any data I'm just looking to try to salvage another drive back if possible.

Thank you in advance!

-Sean

Attachments

Close up of one of the HDD boards that I used the wrong modular PSU cables on. No visible damage that I can see.

[Lardman]

Q1. You would also need to swap the ROM IC's.
Q2. It's likely you have blown the power protection probably the 5v rail, with luck that's all.
Q3.You're going to need a multimeter and soldering equipment, ideally a hot air station.

fzabkar has made several posts detailing efuse use http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=1615&p=8872#p8872 for an explanation far better than any I will give.

[fzabkar]

MP5000S, Monolithic Power, 12V, 1A - 5A Programmable Current Limit Switch, marking ADT, QFN10:
https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/documentview/productdocument/index/version/2/document_type/Datasheet/lang/en/sku/MP5000S/document_id/1651/

MP5018, Monolithic Power, 5V, 1A-5A Current Limit Switch with Reverse Current Blocking & Output Over-voltage Clamp, marking AMAy, QFN-12:
https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/documentview/productdocument/index/version/2/document_type/Datasheet/lang/en/sku/MP5018/

[grevan]

Just curious, what is that big white smd component on the top left? Looks like a fuse.

[sting11165]

Q1. You would also need to swap the ROM IC's.
Q2. It's likely you have blown the power protection probably the 5v rail, with luck that's all.
Q3.You're going to need a multimeter and soldering equipment, ideally a hot air station.

fzabkar has made several posts detailing efuse use http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=100&t=1615&p=8872#p8872 for an explanation far better than any I will give.

Thanks everyone, especially fzabkar -- I saw your post earlier and suspected those were the regulators. I would assume it'd be likely that the 5V reg is blown since it'd be hard to blow the 12V. If I do a little homework I could check the pinouts and figure out which line levels may have been the problem though.

I've got the multimeter but I don't have a hot-air station. I've done SMT with the land patterns on the end but I'd have no idea how to get stuff underneath desoldered. Maybe I can see if I can get access to a hot air station at work. Thank you so much for the info!

[sting11165]

Just curious, what is that big white smd component on the top left? Looks like a fuse.

I was wondering as well. There's another one on the board as well. I was initially thinking a big cap or maybe some sort of SMT inductor, but I can't say I've seen one of them before.

[fzabkar]

The white, angled component is a shock sensor.

The other ICs I have identified are e-fuses. Examine the datasheets, identify the Vin and Vout pins, and then measure the voltages at these pins. You should see 5V and 12V at the inputs and also at the outputs. If Vout is missing, then either the e-fuse has failed, or the output of the fuse is overloaded. To confirm that there is no overload, measure the resistance between ground (a screw hole ) and Vout. If there is no short at Vout, then you can bridge Vin and Vout with a wire or blob of solder.

Last edited by fzabkar on April 26th, 2022, 1:05, edited 1 time in total.

[sting11165]

The white, angled component is a shock sensor.

The other ICs I have identified are e-fuses. Examine the datasheets, identify the Vin and Vout pins, and then measure the voltages at these pins. You should see 5V and 12V at the inputs and also at the outputs. If Vout is missing, then either the e-fuse has failed, or the output of the fuse is overloaded. To confirm that there is no overload, measure the resistance between ground (a screw hole ) and Vout. If there is no short at Vout, then you can bridge Vin and Vout with a wire or blob of solder.

That other thread at Tom's Hardware is more detailed. It tests the regulators as well.

Oh, got it, I don't need to replace the parts, I can just bridge them if they are blown. A little dangerous long term (especially if I overpower them again) but a good way to see if that addresses it. I may also get a hot air station, I didn't realize how inexpensive they are now.

[fzabkar]

Just one more thing. Current models don't use 3.3V. If 3.3V is present at pin #3 of the SATA connector, this will disable spin-up.

[Lardman]

Oh, got it, I don't need to replace the parts, I can just bridge them if they are blown.

If you're just recovering data bridging them is .... adequate. If you intend to put them back into service or sell them on at a later date, I would strongly suggest you replace them to give some other modular PSU owner a fighting chance.