WD40EDAZ-11SLVB0 no spin PCB swap doesn't fix. What next?

[chrispitt76]

WD40EDAZ-11SLVB0 WX32D5

Western Digital MyBook damaged by water and/or power surge. 1 cup of water fell off desk onto shelf dripping onto multi-outlet power strip and drive enclosure itself, so damage may be from a power surge from water coming into contact with the open outlets on the power strip or into the drive.

The drive is 4TB so sending it off for data recovery would be expensive over 1000 USD. About 500GB are high value personal stuff, family photos, etc. But the rest is junk also making paying not a good option. I do not have Western Digital warranty on it.

Symptoms:
Windows does not detect but PCB gets hot
WinHex doesn't detect but PCB gets hot
UFS Explorer Professional Recovery Doesn't detect but PCB gets hot
Diskpart sees and can change drive letter and can select but shows 0 MB and Offline and No Media (but PCB gets hot)
Disk Management sees disk and shows must format (but PCB gets hot)


What I tried
1. Software fixes: EaseUS, Diskpart, Chkdsk, plugged into 3 different laptops, removed from myBook enclosure and removed original U5SB connection and tried connecting with a universal external hard drive adapter (PIC 4)
Results from 1.
-- no change
2. Swapping two PCBs with same serial and Revision and putting original Bios chips on both
-- BUT my soldering skills are super poor. Pic 6 shows result of my second (ever) soldering attempt, using solder paste (please don't laugh). Tried connecting with both original USB connection and power (pic 3) and universal external hard drive adapter (pic 4)
Results from 2.
-- PCB 1 no change and PCB stays cool to touch
-- PCB 2 no change but the PCB gets hot fast
3. Bypass SA read by following instructions here

Code:

http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=86&t=1523

and

Code:

http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1081

-- PCB 2 no change but the PCB 2 gets hot fast
4. Open drive (in a positive pressure bag I made) to check spindle isn't stuck to platter
-- spindle in correct position.
-- spindle moves when pushed with tweezers
-- platters spin when center turned with torq screwdriver
-- close up drive and try to again with PCB 2 and no change
5. Put 3 Bios chips back onto original patient PCB and replace several diodeson original patient PCB with several from PCB 1 (the one that stays cool to touch), added some extra solder to connectors to hard drive for good measure result:
-- when I plug HDD back in Disk Management takes a lot longer to read
-- but no other change, Disk Management shows No Media
6. Still working with original patient PCB also with original Bios chips back in but follow directions here

Code:

https://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=41501

of adding solder to bypas 5V and 12V fuses
-- now Disk Management shows the drive quickly but no otherwise result is the same, still shows No Media. Don't here any spinning of platters.

At this point I notice this about how the PCB heats up. I numbered the areas and also colored with a green marker in pic 7
1. The Main Controller Chip (I assume that's it) Marvell 8E1054-NXZ2 TCK70P.02JW 2123 A1E TW(hard to read it I may be wrong about these letters/numbers) gets hot first and is the hottest thing on the board
2. Chip under it SEC 122 K4B2G16 46F BYMA YEC19112C gets hot second and also extremely hot but not as hot as the main chip
3. Then the area to the right where the Bios chips warms up but not anywhere near as hot as 1 and 2
4. Then all 3 green areas by number 4 and number 5 warm up but much less hot then 1, 2, and even 3

Pic 10 shows current state of PCB
Pic 1 and 2 shows current state of drive

I also attached screenshots of results from my attempts at software fixes with chkdsk, UFS, adnd WinHex in the next reply

Any suggestions on what to do next?

Attachments

[WebClaw]

This got very complicated - very fast.
Instead of opening the drive, you could have affixed a donor PCB to see if it was spinning.

What is getting hot on the PCB?

Why not have someone w/better soldering skills move over the ROM (top one in your pic) and be done w/it? There is also cheaper places that would take the entire case. I'll not spam, but three hundred + recovery will get you results in Google.

~$50 here in Canada.

[pepe]

hello,
drive is SED, and very likely tied to MCU. So if you kill itt, your chances to see your data again are gone.
just sayin'
opening it was just as stupid.
now it is surely over 1k even if it wasn't that range on the first hand. :s
you'd be surprised how much effort it takes to recover such a mess.
pepe

[chrispitt76]

This got very complicated - very fast.
Instead of opening the drive, you could have affixed a donor PCB to see if it was spinning.

- Sorry I wasn't clear. I did try that. I tried two different donor PCBs, (PCB 1 with the patient chips stayed cool, PCB 2 with patient chips got hot)

Getting hot on the PCB is:
1. The Main Controller Chip (I assume that's it) Marvell 8E1054-NXZ2 TCK70P.02JW 2123 A1E TW(hard to read it I may be wrong about these letters/numbers) gets hot first and is the hottest thing on the board
2. Chip under it SEC 122 K4B2G16 46F BYMA YEC19112C gets hot second and also extremely hot but not as hot as the main chip
3. Then the area to the right where the Bios chips warms up but not anywhere near as hot as 1 and 2
4. Then all 3 green areas by number 4 and number 5 warm up but much less hot then 1, 2, and even 3

You can see in the pics 7 and 10. By the way 10 is the current state of the

Attachments

[chrispitt76]

hello,
drive is SED, and very likely tied to MCU. So if you kill itt, your chances to see your data again are gone.
just sayin'
opening it was just as stupid.
now it is surely over 1k even if it wasn't that range on the first hand. :s
you'd be surprised how much effort it takes to recover such a mess.
pepe

Yeah I know super stupid. But it wasn't like it was working anyway. I was actually thinking of swapping MCU on patient PCB with MCU from PCB that didn't get hot, but haven't tried that yet. As far as SED. This was used as an external data storage drive, it was in a WD MyBook. Basically a big USB. I didn't have the WD software that came with it installed or running so I was hoping that SED would be limited to the BIOS which I could move to donor PCB

[pepe]

i have to say sorry for being a bit raw in the prev post. But you need to decide if you ever want to get that important part recovered without thinking about the price first.
If the answer is yes, then the best you can do is stop tinkering with it and find somebody with experience with this kind of drives, coz without knowhow, tools and experience it won't work.

pepe

[chrispitt76]

@pepe I'm not offended at all, don't worry. I've taken a few programming classes because staff at my employer are allowed to take them for free, but never anything on hardware so I'm enjoying learning about drive structure with this "project". Anyway. I've decided I have exhausted my skill level. I'm now looking for options on professional recovery directly from platters. And don't worry about offending people here! People find what they look for in the world, if they want to be offended no matter what you write or how you phrase it they will be offended. If people are looking for help and honest advice that's what they will find and look past any attitude of the poster.

[harddrivespecialist]

Hi Chris.

We can help you.
I will send you a PM.