ST5000DM000 won't spin up, need help with readings

[Pandemicc]

Hello everyone, I wonder if there is a DIY method for this drive that just refuses the spin up. Here are some details and voltage readings:

ST5000DM000 PN: 1FK178 - 568. FW: CC49

[fzabkar]

You showed us the voltage at the input side of the 12V zero-ohm resistors, but you didn't show us the voltage on the 12V TVS diode.

[Pandemicc]

You showed us the voltage at the input side of the 12V zero-ohm resistors, but you didn't show us the voltage on the 12V TVS diode.

thanks for the reply. I can do more readings if need be:

[fzabkar]

If the 12V TVS diode is shorted, then that's your problem. The corresponding zero-ohm resistors will be open-circuit.

[Pandemicc]

If the 12V TVS diode is shorted, then that's your problem. The corresponding zero-ohm resistors will be open-circuit.

I removed the shorted TVS diode and zero-ohm resistors are open circuit now. What would be the best replacement for this?

I believe it is 400w for size, I am not sure. SMAJ12A?

[fzabkar]

It looks like SMBJ12A, although it's not necessary to replace the diode if all you want is data recovery, and if your PSU is good.

You can replace one of the resistors with a 4A smt fuse. Alternatively, you could just flow a blob of solder over both resistors, if you can accept the risk, and if there are no other problems.

[Pandemicc]

It looks like SMBJ12A, although it's not necessary to replace the diode if all you want is data recovery, and if your PSU is good.

You can replace one of the resistors with a 4A smt fuse. Alternatively, you could just flow a blob of solder over both resistors, if you can accept the risk, and if there are no other problems.

I was finally able to find a TVS diode, SMAJ12A 400W, and replaced it. The short is gone but I am reading 4.4V from it and nearby resistors. Do you think that it is safe to plug in the board now? If not, I can provide more readings.

[fzabkar]

If you have 12V on one side of the zero-ohm resistors, and 4.4V on the other side, then the resistors are partially open.

[Pandemicc]

If you have 12V on one side of the zero-ohm resistors, and 4.4V on the other side, then the resistors are partially open.

4.4 / 4.5V on both sides. What could it mean?

[fzabkar]

What voltages do you measure at the SATA power pins?

[Pandemicc]

What voltages do you measure at the SATA power pins?

SATA port in the north, 7-8-9 is 5V and last three is 12V

[fzabkar]

Follow the traces from the 12V SATA pins to the first pair of resistors ("0" marking).

[Pandemicc]

Follow the traces from the 12V SATA pins to the first pair of resistors ("0" marking).

oh yes, the two resistors are 12v on one side and 5V on the other side. What can I do for those culprits?

[fzabkar]

The safest thing, in your case, would be to replace one of them with a 4A smt fuse.

[Pandemicc]

The safest thing, in your case, would be to replace one of them with a 4A smt fuse.

does it matter matter which one?

I have an SMD fuse that is rated for 4a 24v. Would that work? It has '4' marking on it, not some like 'S' or so, and is slightly bigger than the ones that has 'S' on them.

[fzabkar]

Choose either. Your fuse sounds OK.

[Pandemicc]

Choose either. Your fuse sounds OK.

The fuse I was talking about was indeed to big, so I went ahead and removed a working 'S' marking fuse from a WD drive. I had normal 12V readings so I went ahead and plugged the drive.

Now the drive beeps once everytime I power it up and is not recognised by computer. Here is the video:
https://streamable.com/55aybm

[Hardcore Games]

Sounds like there is more damage than simply a fuse or diode. Given the logic board does not have MOSFETs or an ECU to manage voltages all kinds of damage is possible.

[Pandemicc]

Choose either. Your fuse sounds OK.

It is not a PCB issue anymore, I presume? Do I need platter/head inspection beyond this point?

[fzabkar]

One of the pros would be best to advise you.