Toshiba MK3021GAS - Bad PCB

[milosn]

Hi there,

I have a dead Toshiba MK3021GAS (HDD2181 Y ZE01 S) - does not start, no sounds, not detected in any software. At this stage I'm focusing on PCB only, +5V and Ground are reaching PCB but going further to chips there is no 3.3V anywhere (like on cache RAM), I'm getting only 1.3V (all mesaurements with PCB removed from the drive).

Is it possible that only the voltage regulator 5V to 3.3V has died and by replacing it I can get the drive running? If yes, where can I find it, is a 3 pin or perhaps 6 pin chip?

Also I see that some of GAS models may have ROM chip (not embedded), how can I recognize it on PCB, should it look the same as on 3.5" drives?

And lastly, if I am to replace PCB and swap controllers (if there's no ROM chip) I'd like to hear from people who may have done that (successfully or otherwise).

Cheers

[jono-ats]

Check for a couple of SMT devices near D1 that may be fuses. Most of these boards have fuses and it is common for them to open.

I think . . . but am not 100% sure . . . that the ROM may be in the ARM IC with the white label on it.

Jon

[milosn]

Thanks mate, will check the fuses and let you know if I get anywhere.

[mr_spokk]

Hi,
As I can see it the fuses must still good, otherwise you should not even have 1.3v.
So check the voltage regulator and the other components first.

Bosse

[Starling]

Don't you hear even slight tick-tick-tick sound?

[milosn]

Jono, thank you very much, problem solved.

There are two fuses marked S on two +5V lines (coming from connector pins 41 and 42 if I'm not mistaken), near D1 as Jono said.

One of them was opened, I removed it and shorted the gap, drive started OK. Got the image and the data from it.

Bosse, I was thinking the same way as I had some signals on PCB and those 1.3V levels on Vdd pins. Must be that something was coming on the other +5V line (where the fuse was OK).

Starling, there were no sounds or motion at all, the drive appeared completely dead.

I also think, as Jono said, that ROM is in the ARM chip (80 pin) with white label on it so that would be the one to swap should you wish to swap PCBs.

Thank you all guys, this problem solved, looking forward to the next one...