Looking for WD800JB PCB

[jono-ats]

I need a rather unusual WDC Marvel PCB for a WD800JB-00FMA0 (this board may be on other models too): 2061-001209-390

If you have one, please PM me with price.

Thanks.

Jon

[Mikippp]

Hi,
U can use Mamooth PCB with 2MB Cache 2060-001130-012 REV A from WDx00BB-xxFJAx, WDx00BB-xxHEAx

Mikippp

[jono-ats]

Hi,
U can use Mamooth PCB with 2MB Cache 2060-001130-012 REV A from WDx00BB-xxFJAx, WDx00BB-xxHEAx

Mikippp

Thank you, Mikippp.

I tried another Mammoth PCB, 2061-001130-300 and swapped the ROM, but got clicking. The original drive had a burned motor chip and some other parts failures. I replaced the IC and the IR regulator, but I think the CPU is bad as well.

I looked at the CPUs. The original is GB60811.2 and the my donor is GB60321.3. I guess I need to look a bit further for the -012 PCB.

Thanks for your help & info.

Jon

[pepe]

Hi,

I would check preamp as well. When CPU burns, probably preamp burns also. This might serve as some explanation for not working with those PCBs Mikippp suggested.

pepe

[jono-ats]

Hi,

I would check preamp as well. When CPU burns, probably preamp burns also. This might serve as some explanation for not working with those PCBs Mikippp suggested.

pepe

Thanks, Pepe.

Yeah, the thought definitely crossed my mind. We shall see . . .

Jon

[jono-ats]

I tried another 1130 PCB and the same result - clicking and cycling.

So used signature analysis and made a log to compare the I/O lines of the HDA. The signatures of the HDA from the clicking drive matched those from good drives.

I expect that a blown preamp would give markedly different signatures (but I don't have a known blown one to test . . . not sure the best way to kill one either!)

Whether I recover from this one or not, it would be nice to develop a fairly simple way to compare head stacks without opening the lid - esp. with WDC. I think I can do it but need more testing to confirm.

Jon

[Starling]

PCB numbers look too different. I would try to find a 2061-001209-390 PCB before trying head/preamp swap...

[pepe]

Hi,

I am having a clicking WD2500JS. It does not click the way it would if heads were bad, that's a kind of 'soft' clicking. This one clicks louder than the ones with head problems.

this is my observation, I will try to find a donor and keep u updated...
pepe

[jono-ats]

PCB numbers look too different. I would try to find a 2061-001209-390 PCB before trying head/preamp swap...

Thanks, Starling. That's my strategy. Someone located one for me. I'll post the results.

I don't know about you, but WDC head swaps are difficult and I would prefer to avoid them if possible.

Jon

[jono-ats]

Hi,

I am having a clicking WD2500JS. It does not click the way it would if heads were bad, that's a kind of 'soft' clicking. This one clicks louder than the ones with head problems.

this is my observation, I will try to find a donor and keep u updated...
pepe

Have you seen any problems with top cover alignment issues on these larger WD drives?

Jon

[pepe]

Hi,

not yet.
Mine was suffering of some PCB problem. So replacing the PCB and reprogramming ROM solved the issue.

pepe

[Starling]

About cover alignment problem.
There's no such problem
The problem is that after some time heads change their original condition(get drity, bend a little, gain weight, reallign between each other etc) thus original adaptives work no more and the drive starts clicking unable to catch servo.
On WD you can try to play with the cover changing the angle of the headstack axis and this helps quite often. Why? This basically helps to readjust the heads back to original state. This works best on 1 or 2-head drives but if there are more heads too many different parameters overlap and chances that this will work on such drives go down exponentially.
That's how I see it

[jono-ats]

Starling,

I fully agree.

Jon

[jono-ats]

I obtained a working PCB with the same number. It didn't make any difference. Even hot-swapping had no improvement. I conclude that the head stack is bad.

Jon