Hitachi DK23DA-20F

[dan_linder]

I'm needing to perform a MB transfer from a dead Hitachi 20GB IDE (Model: DK23DA-20F) and this will be my first. I have a couple questions:
1: How exact do the firmware revisions have to be? Mine is "A/A0G0 A/A", but I found another MB that lists it as "B/A0D2 A/A".
2: I saw earlier posts by people asking similar firmware questions for other drives (Seagate, Western Digital, IBM, etc). Is there a better place to ask this question?
3: If the firmware doesn't work from the donor MB, is it possible to downgrade/upgrade the firmware without loosing the data?

Thanks in advance!

Dan

[jono-ats]

In my experience (a bit limited with this model) if the entire line matches, you should be able to do a board swap without changing anything.

If that doesn't work, look at the two PCBs. The parts layout should match exactly; as should the label on the other side (e.g. D/A or C/A). You can swap the MPU and it should work. (Note that you'll need SMT gear to swap the MPU).

If the white label on the back of the board doesn't match, don't even attempt it.

Jon

[dan_linder]

In my experience (a bit limited with this model) if the entire line matches, you should be able to do a board swap without changing anything.

You're meaning the "A/A0G0 A/A" line, right? (Is that the firmware revision?)
Yeah, I'm hoping I can dig up a perfect match.

Anyone have further details on the Hitachi firmware numbering scheme, or is there anyway I could pull the firmware off the old PCB and upload it to the donor PCB?

If that doesn't work, look at the two PCBs. The parts layout should match exactly; as should the label on the other side (e.g. D/A or C/A). You can swap the MPU and it should work. (Note that you'll need SMT gear to swap the MPU).

Thanks. I'm not going to redo the SMT stuff (*note 1*) so an exact match is what I'm going for.
(Note 1: Well, I *might* try the SMT route only after everything else is 100% confirmed to not work... )

If the white label on the back of the board doesn't match, don't even attempt it.

Well, it's not a 100% match (see firmware question), but most everything else is. I might spring for it - it's a cheap enough experiment even if it doesn't work.

Dan

[jono-ats]

A good rule of thumb is that every free answer that you give someone generates about 3 more questions . . .


1. I'm pretty sure that if you match the numbers on the label on the FRONT of the drive (e.g A/A0G0 A/A), the model number, and the two letters on the shorter label on the back of the drive (e.g. A/A) then a simple PCB swap will work - the firmware will be the same.

2. I think that the code on the front indicates not only the firmware, but probably other stuff as well such as heads. I don't know exactly what each one stands for. The MPU has an inked number stamped on it and AFAIK, that indicates firmware revision. If that number doesn't match, then the firmware on two boards is different.

3. Will the FW on A/A0G0 A/A be the same as A/A0B0 /A/A? I dunno. See #2.

4. I believe the firmware is masked and there is no simple way to read & write it. Therefore, SMT swap is a safe bet.

[dan_linder]

A good rule of thumb is that every free answer that you give someone generates about 3 more questions . . .

Thanks for the answers - I'll try to return the the favor to the forum when able.

I'm going to track down a very close board to use as a donor and see what it gives me.

Wish me luck and thanks again,

Dan