Fried logic board for WD3200JB-00KFA0, can I use this donor?

[klutzon]

Hey there members of HDDGuru,

I've got a problem with my hard drive and I'd very much appreciate your advice, and I'm hoping that with this thread you guys can tell me the miracle I'm hoping for is possible...

About a month ago, my WD 320GB IDE hard drive stopped working when I had put the molex adapter into it like I had done countless times before (I use it as an external hard drive with a USB adapter) and I don't know (still to this day) whether I put the molex in the right way or if I happened to push the molex in upside down and somehow got the 5V and 12V to touch the wrong pins on the HD, but regardless, result was the same: the HD didn't spin up, and when I touch the logic board on the bottom of the drive, it gets really hot in a matter of seconds in the area of the motor IC.

I tried to research how to fix this, and I came across this forum which was incredibly helpful, in particular these two threads which related directly to my exact model of HD:

please-help-identify-fried-pcb-wd3200jb-00kfa0-any-comment-t8137.html
western-digital-wd3200jb-00kfa0-t8674.html

Reading those, I understood what happened and what to do to fix it. I need to find a donor board of the exact same code and transplant the U12 chip from my dead board to the donor one to get the data off my HD.

My only problem is, I have no idea where I'm going to find this exact board, and living in Kenya, my options are extremely limited.

In Kenya, because of the overheating problems that you guys are aware some Western Digital drives are prone to, most of the retailers here only stock Seagate hard drives. Those that do have WD *only* have SATA flavor, no IDE. I asked at the one store that was willing to custom order a drive for me to get a Western Digital 320GB IDE with code WD3200JB and the code on the logic board (which I told them was crucial) had to be 2060-701314-002.

Unfortunately, after two weeks of waiting, they brought in the wrong drive. They brought in a WD 320GB IDE, but it was the WD3200AAJB with the details listed below.



WD3200AAJB

Western Digital 320GB IDE (Caviar SE)
WD3200AAJB - 00WGA0 / 27 FEB 2008 / HARNHT2CBN

2060 - 701494 - 001 REV A (on board)
2060 - 701494 - 100 AE (serial)



In desperation, I asked them to show me their WD SATA drives, and they only had one, an 80GB model, but upon examination of the logic board, even though the code was different to what I needed, the shape of the logic board looked identical to the one I need, unlike the 3200AAJB which differed a lot. Perhaps this could work? Here's the specs of the 80GB:




WD800BD

Western Digital 80GB SATA (Caviar)
WD800BD - OOMRA1 / 05 JAN 2008 / DSCANTJCA

2060 - 701335 - 005 REV A (on board)
2060 - 701335 - D00 AK (serial)



Today I checked out the hard disk that my dad got in his external HDD media player (an external casing with an internal hard drive that you can put all sorts of media on and watch them on your TV), and lo and behold, it's a Western Digital IDE, but a 160GB model. Furthermore, again, even though the code is different, the layout and shape of the board looks identical to my dead logic board, with the exception of different chips on the board.

I took some pictures of all the details which I think you guys would need to be able to tell me what I need to know.

(Please forgive the huge resolutions, I just wanted to give you guys all the details you needed to see in order to help me out...)

Comparing the two hard drives - front
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n24/klutzon/hds1.jpg

Comparing the two hard drives - back (with pic of burn damage on foam)
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n24/klutzon/hds2.jpg

Close-up and details of my 320GB dead logic board
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n24/klutzon/hds3.jpg

Close-up and details of my 160GB logic board
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n24/klutzon/hds4.jpg

Comparing the two logic boards - back
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n24/klutzon/hds5-1.jpg


Now, my question is, since finding the exact logic board I need is going to be really hard, is there any chance in hell that I can salvage my situation and use the 160GB logic board if I transplanted my U12 chip onto it?


And if not, would any of you know where I'll be able to get a logic board with my exact code 2060 - 701314 - 001? Or would any of you be able to sell me a working one? Even though I'm living in Kenya, I have access to PayPal and I'm willing to cover the cost of the part and the shipping. PM me if you've got one you can sell.


I really need to get this data off my hard drive, there's crucial stuff there, and this was my "backup" drive, so I can't lose this stuff! All my work, all my mom's work... please help!!!

Thank you for your help in advance,

Sean

[N.C.]

Hello,

I have only some bad news for you.
On the pics, it is clear, your MCU is dead as well.
So, it is a chance, the U12 is dead too, with the unique data of your drive.

You can't use the 160G's pcb, it is too much differs.
If you can't find an exact model, i suggest to forget all the codes (including size, model num, dcm...), only watch for the mcu's number, and for the VCD's (smooth chip) number.
Additionally, you need to find the exactly designed pcb!!!
You can check this, with take min 10 minute exploring about the pads, lines, wires, vias missing/built in parts (without number matching), and if you can't find ANY difference, you have a big chance to use this board with the original U12. (depending its condition...)

Additionally, if the 5V is rised (or reversed) you need to check the premap too, because it can be damaged as well.
If it is, you trying to find a needle on the big green grass garden.... (without a magned. )

Additionally, the always best solution is: "try to find a pro, if your data is really important!"

Regards,
Janos

[klutzon]

Thanks for your reply Janos.

That really is crappy news... Although looking at the damage that the other member had in his thread, I think my U12 should still be okay... but finding another logic board here is going to be REALLY hard...

Would you happen to know where I can find out what hard drive models from Western Digital use the 2060-701314-001 logic board? I don't mind buying the whole drive if it's just for that part...

Because honestly speaking, I don't have minimum $500 to get it repaired...

Wow, this sucks. I really hope this isn't a dead end...

But thanks for your reply.

Just for my information, can you tell me where this MCU you mentioned is on the logic board? And what would you like me to check on my logic board? I know the VCD (smooth chip) is burned, and the MCU I'm assuming is the big chip in the middle (what do VCD and MCU stand for btw?), but what areas would you like me to check to make sure the U12 is okay? You've got the hi-res shot I took, can you point out to me what I'm looking for?

And where is the pre-amp you want me to check? Because like I mentioned, I'm not 100% sure if because I couldn't really see what I was doing, if I plugged the molex in upside down and the 5V touched the 12V pin on the HD and the 12V touched the 5V to blow the scorched area (I've put a circle around it), or if I plugged it in the proper way and it was going to blow anyway. Apparently from what I've read, the WD's have this problem...

Just sucks that this had to happen.

Help me out with as much info as you can please. Besides adding to my knowledge, I also need to know what to tell the recovery experts if I can ever afford it...

[N.C.]

Thanks for your reply Janos.

That really is crappy news... Although looking at the damage that the other member had in his thread, I think my U12 should still be okay... but finding another logic board here is going to be REALLY hard...

Would you happen to know where I can find out what hard drive models from Western Digital use the 2060-701314-001 logic board? I don't mind buying the whole drive if it's just for that part...

Because honestly speaking, I don't have minimum $500 to get it repaired...

Wow, this sucks. I really hope this isn't a dead end...

But thanks for your reply.

Just for my information, can you tell me where this MCU you mentioned is on the logic board? And what would you like me to check on my logic board? I know the VCD (smooth chip) is burned, and the MCU I'm assuming is the big chip in the middle (what do VCD and MCU stand for btw?), but what areas would you like me to check to make sure the U12 is okay? You've got the hi-res shot I took, can you point out to me what I'm looking for?

And where is the pre-amp you want me to check? Because like I mentioned, I'm not 100% sure if because I couldn't really see what I was doing, if I plugged the molex in upside down and the 5V touched the 12V pin on the HD and the 12V touched the 5V to blow the scorched area (I've put a circle around it), or if I plugged it in the proper way and it was going to blow anyway. Apparently from what I've read, the WD's have this problem...

Just sucks that this had to happen.

Help me out with as much info as you can please. Besides adding to my knowledge, I also need to know what to tell the recovery experts if I can ever afford it...

I am not sure about the U12 is ok, but the mcu only burn when the 5V line made the problem.
The U12 is 5V (or less) component too.
If less, you still have a little chance.

I don't know where to find another pcb, but i can recover your data, if you want.
If the preamp is OK, it costs only about $300-$400.

The mcu is the big chip.
This is the processor of the pcb.
The VCD is the smoot chip, this makes the motors move.
The preamp is the pre-amplifier of the heads signal.
It is located inside of the HDA. (Head Disk Assembly)
This is an electronic chip too, so it can be damaged as well.

Regards,
Janos

[klutzon]

I am not sure about the U12 is ok, but the mcu only burn when the 5V line made the problem.
The U12 is 5V (or less) component too.
If less, you still have a little chance.

I don't know where to find another pcb, but i can recover your data, if you want.
If the preamp is OK, it costs only about $300-$400.

The mcu is the big chip.
This is the processor of the pcb.
The VCD is the smoot chip, this makes the motors move.
The preamp is the pre-amplifier of the heads signal.
It is located inside of the HDA. (Head Disk Assembly)
This is an electronic chip too, so it can be damaged as well.

Regards,
Janos

Thanks again Janos. Okay, so I understand a bit more about the hard drive now...

Thanks also for your offer. I want to make a couple of calls to see if I can get this repaired locally first, because shipping this hard drive to you and back might be really expensive. Living in Kenya is very unforgiving on the pocket... But if it doesn't work out here, I'll get in touch with you about that offer.

So let's assume for a minute that I did managed to get the 5V and 12V of the molex to touch the opposing pins on the power input of the hard drive, which would cause 12V to run through 5V components and blow the MCU and VCD like it did, you say the U12 would be gone as well? It doesn't have any marks on it, any way to know just from looking if it's gone? And assuming this happened, what are the chances that the preamp would have sustained damage? And what does it mean if the preamp is damaged?

(I'd like to know worst case... )

Also, in your opinion, what are the chances that this would have happened anyway even if I plugged the molex in the proper way (5V to 5V, 12V to 12V)?

[N.C.]

Thanks also for your offer. I want to make a couple of calls to see if I can get this repaired locally first, because shipping this hard drive to you and back might be really expensive. Living in Kenya is very unforgiving on the pocket... But if it doesn't work out here, I'll get in touch with you about that offer.

Who talked about back?
I can count down the price if you left the parts here, and you can download your data.

So let's assume for a minute that I did managed to get the 5V and 12V of the molex to touch the opposing pins on the power input of the hard drive, which would cause 12V to run through 5V components and blow the MCU and VCD like it did, you say the U12 would be gone as well? It doesn't have any marks on it, any way to know just from looking if it's gone? And assuming this happened, what are the chances that the preamp would have sustained damage? And what does it mean if the preamp is damaged?

(I'd like to know worst case... )

To determine the U12 is gone or not, you need to try to read it out.
But you need to have tools for this.

In my opinion, the U12 have about 75% chance.
But the good preamp have only 40-50%.

Also, in your opinion, what are the chances that this would have happened anyway even if I plugged the molex in the proper way (5V to 5V, 12V to 12V)?

Hard to say right, but anyway, it is still a chance for addigional damages on the pcb, and for the preamp too.
The U12 is in safe place now, because the power lines is good for them.

Regards,
Janos