Data recovery and disk repair questions and discussions related to old-fashioned SATA, SAS, SCSI, IDE, MFM hard drives - any type of storage device that has moving parts
September 26th, 2008, 20:13
I've been reading this board as quickly as possible since my drive failed. WD500gb sata
I saw this from an earlier post and it describes my problem "The fact the computer won't start up with the power connected to the drive is also a good sign the TVS shorted." It runs perfectly with the WD500 disconnected.
I've also seen others warning that something else could be damaged while powering up after removing the TVS.
They were talking about preamps and such on other makes of drives. (samsung/hitachi maybe)
Is that true for my Western Dig drive? I understand there could be more damage than just the TVS ~ I just want to make sure I can remove it and not automatically do other harm.
If it works, I'll just use it long enuff to extract the data.
Thanks.
September 26th, 2008, 21:07
Your computer won't turn on with the drive installed? If so, the TVS could be shorted. Thing is, it usually fails for a reason. Are you absolutely sure your power supply is good? Have you measured the output? Is it a good brand? These are the things that could make the TVS fail, and these are the things that you should check before removing the TVS. If you do remove it, you should only do it for a short while as you recover your data. If you have any plans of reusing the drive (Not recommended, but it's your drive), you should replace the TVS.
September 26th, 2008, 22:01
Thx for the response.
I'm no expert but I tend to lean towards some sort of surge that took the drive out.
It was my secondary drive. (mp3/movie data)
The primary OS drive hasn't been damaged by the Pwr supply ever. (samsung) I've had the pc 1 year.
I only plan on starting the shorted drive long enuff to copy data. Which could take awhile since it has 450gb full.
After that I send it back to WD for a new one. It's 1yr old on a 3yr warranty.
Rob
September 27th, 2008, 1:37
After you remove the tvs the drive is no longer under warranty - they'll notice it.
September 27th, 2008, 11:41
Hi Mocarob,
You can't have the cake and eat it too...
Decide first,
1. Want to utilize the warranty, as the data is not all that worth the cost of the drive.
2. Need the data badly by fixing the drive & utilizing the warranty as well.
Confused with option 2 ?
The Warranty of any drive is void only if you remove the warranty securing screw which is on the top side of the drive covered by the Drive Configuration Label.
Your case, the Head & Media side is ok (from your words). The problem is only on the TVS diode which is on the PCB. Try to get a compatible PCB from another drive or ebay. ap the ROM chip neatly. The drive will now detect or atleast will detect after 2-3 times PC restart. Copy all the required data. Swap back the ROM to their original boards & put back the PCBs to their original drive.
If you have done the ROM swap cleanly without any major marks, send the patient drive for replacement.
Atleast you can utilize the balance 2 years of the warranty.
-RDS.
September 27th, 2008, 14:05
The data is more important. These drives sell for $69 right now.
That was one question I had after reading pages of messages about the PCB.
Some people talked about just switching the pcb with another of the same firmware and it working then others
talked about the need to switch the ROM..
This WD drive is one that must have the ROM replaced?
When looking for a PCB, DO I look for the same firmware on the barccode label or the same # stamped on the board.
If firmware on the label, How close must it be? Perfect?
MY firmware is 2061-701477-900 would 2061-701477-800 work?
Thanks again.
September 29th, 2008, 17:47
All of the pics with burned/shorted TVS here from other people are obvious.
The bad diode stands out like a sore thumb.
After inspecting mine many times, I don't see any cracks or burns on any of mine.
Can they short out without any visible damage?
I thought it was going to be an easy chore which one to remove.
I'll try and use a multimeter on them tomorrow but thought I'd pose this question in the meantime.
I'll also try and get a clear picture of the PCB and post it. it's tought getting a good shot of it.
September 29th, 2008, 18:15
you'll need a tester, they often short (TVS) or open (fuses/diodes/ferrites) without showing outside.
September 30th, 2008, 14:38
The tester shows nothing flowing either direction on this TVS - TB13A V717
I've tried finding it on digikey.com & ebay without any luck.
Anybody have a link to this item?
Thanks.
September 30th, 2008, 18:45
the TVS thing comes up 5x per week here. the answer is in the old posts. search "TVS"
September 30th, 2008, 18:59
mediaman wrote:the TVS thing comes up 5x per week here. the answer is in the old posts. search "TVS"
Yes, I've done that and read all of them before posting here.
I know that removing the bad TVS
might enable me to start it and extract the data.
I know that the disc will be unprotected at that point.
I was asking about the numbers on the Western Digital TVS diode.. It says TB13A V717
An Engineer where I work and I googled that part #, Searched digikey.com & searched Ebay. No Hits for that part #.
I was asking if anybody knew where I could get one IF i decided to replace it.
Thanks
October 1st, 2008, 4:46
The numbers may mean nothing. If they don't cross ref to anything, they may be 'house marked'. It's not terribly important anyway. Any TVS from any drive will work fine, as long as you get the proper one(5V or 12V), and put it in the right way.. Junk drive is easiest source. If you just must buy one new, figure out which one you have (5V or 12V). A Digikey part # was posted for one a while ago.
October 6th, 2008, 19:23
Just to close this thread, I warmed a pin on the TVS listed above and lifted one side up so it no longer contacted the PCB. The drive fired right up. All data is there. (and now backed up)
Problem solved.
Thanks for the TVS advice!
October 9th, 2008, 16:16
mocarob wrote:Just to close this thread, I warmed a pin on the TVS listed above and lifted one side up so it no longer contacted the PCB. The drive fired right up. All data is there. (and now backed up)
Problem solved.
Thanks for the TVS advice!
Well,
I Can Take The Diode Out and then Extract Data and Put it Back ,Make it Like its never been touched and then send it for replacement .
October 9th, 2008, 17:27
If someone is concerned about a replacement drive more then data, that means data is no more important to them as a price of the new drive.
October 9th, 2008, 17:59
Thanks guys. It's all under control.
cya
October 9th, 2008, 18:43
mocarob:
Could you post a picture show us where is the TVS on this WD hard drive, i have the same problem, and can not find what you said
TB13A V717. I want to try the same way.
October 9th, 2008, 19:39
I would but im out the door right now for Mexico.
I'll be back next week.
it's one of the 2 diodes near the power connection.
you'll need a multimeter to figure out which one it is if it's obviously cracked or burned.
October 18th, 2008, 19:18
mocarob wrote:I would but im out the door right now for Mexico.
I'll be back next week.
it's one of the 2 diodes near the power connection.
you'll need a multimeter to figure out which one it is if it's obviously cracked or burned.
just for the record that should have said.
"you'll need a multimeter to figure out which one it is if it's
NOT obviously cracked or burned"
January 27th, 2009, 3:47
Hi all,
Just want to confirm again that the WD5000AAKB indeed runs without the TVS Diode (TB13A V717).
The TVS that failed was across the +12V supply (D4) (measured as a short circuit both polarities).
I've managed to salvage all the data off the drive after removing the TVS, however, the surge that killed the TVS (Transient Voltage Suppressor) Diode made it fail as a short circuit (it didn't show physical damage), which meant that the power supply was held short circuit for a long time.
Check your power supplies (+5V and +12V) to check if they have degraded. Mine did.... only +4V on the +5V supply, even though the short was on the +12V supply. That meant that the drive didn't spin up, so i had to use another external HD case.
Cheers, and happy backups,
Trev
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