fzabkar, Lastly, is this a good voltmeter to buy? https://www.amazon.ca/AstroAI-Digital-M ... 01ISAMUA6/ I dont know if it has the required modes to get what I need.

Yes, that will do.

So will this:

https://www.amazon.ca/DT-830D-Multimeter-Continuity-Voltmeter-Ohmmeter/dp/B09RB2YLGS/

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

fzabkar, I re read your FAQ, and I noticed how it says that the typical symptom of an external hard drive is a flashing light, but for me the light does not flash, it just goes off. Is this significant?

Yours doesn't flash because the HDD is shutting down the adaptor. Some external HDDs have a fuse in series with the supply. When the fuse opens on the HDD's PCB, the bridge firmware cannot detect the HDD, and the firmware then flashes the LED.

In short, not all external drives behave the same way.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

Snip the diodes in red if there is continuity (you get a beep if you check with a multimeter - one probe of each side of the diode) - usually looks like a WiFi signal symbol on standard multimeters. No issues if you rip a pad - you can even crush them w/needle noise pliers if that makes more sense.

Wouldn't suggest snipping if you don't get a beep, you can simply PM me if you want to mail in the drive w/the donor PCB. Without saying too much I'm in yee haw!

@fzabkar you've saved my ass of few times in the past. Your a clear electrical authority here - I still feel like an idiot when I read your FAQ's. Sometimes people have to see to understand - despite your excellent documentation. Just the way the brain works. Trust me when I say we're all thankful for your patience and willingness to help - please don't stop w/your documentation

WebClaw, What's confusing me right now is the deal with the zero ohm resistors, how do i check whether thats ok?

Don't worry about them. The TVS diodes are designed to take damage if there is over voltage - that's their purpose.

I'm sure I'll be corrected by fzabkar or Spildit, but it's more likely D3 and D4 are the issue and not the 0 ohm resisters. Look for simple things first. And when a multimeters goes beep, it's simple. BTW in your situation the 0 ohm resisters are nothing more than a fuse - they will beep when testing using a multimeter / this is a good thing - (apologies to fzabkar in advance for my inaccuracy)



I know it may not mean much to you, but your statement is super important diagnostic feedback. Suggest D3 / D4 (or one of them) are shorted. Cut 'em both.

The voltmeter has arrived, and the 12V is shorted. I will be removing it now. Spildit, I can't figure out what to do for the resistors, they show a value of 0.00, which I assume is good for zero ohm resistors when I test them.

fzabkar, So, I have been trying to remove the diode for some time but I've been to scared to attempt it because I don't have a single tool small enough to do the job. Can it be removed by just pulling it?

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THANK YOU SO MUCH Spildit, AND fzabkar, I HAVE RECOVERED ALL FILES SUCCESSFULLY, YOU GUYS SAVED ME!

Nice to know that you did manage to get your data/files !!!

Now if you do want to re-use the drive in long term (repair the drive) don't forget that you need to REPLACE THE DIODE. Don't run the drive like that as it will be running without protection and further power/over-voltage issues will most likely directly damage other components and/or the pre-amp.

If you can't replace the diode you should buy an identical PCB and replace the broken one with a working one. You need to copy the ROM code over the new PCB but as the older one is now working you can simply backup the ROM using this method and copy it over to the replacement PCB : - http://www.hddoracle.com/viewtopic.php?f=86&t=1127

Regards.

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