Need PCB Hitachi 1TB HDD HDT721010SLA360 P/N:0A38016

[ngd52]

I need hitachi 1TB HDD PCB
Model: HTD721010SLA360
P/N: 0A38016
S/N: MH2NJ3GK
MLC:BA3013
APR-2009

If you have above mentioned PCB in your stock, plz feel free to contact me at kdhyun@hdec.co.kr

Attachments

[fzabkar]

Can you describe the failure symptom?

If you have a digital multimeter, one of us may be able to help you repair your board, or at least confirm that the problem isn't elsewhere. Many times the problem is only a shorted TVS diode, in which case it can simply be removed.

[ngd52]

Thanks a lot, but i try that already. I failed, so i need an other pcb.

[Ayreos]

I need one as well. Obviously priority should be given to the thread starter.

P/N: 0A38016
S/N: MH3YWLDK
MLC: BA3120

JUN-2009

I don't have specialized tools so i can't ask for support. My HDD just makes some rhytmic and extremely faint click - beep - click - beep sequences with two different tonalities few times, then stops. Doesn't even really spin up.

contact me at astwilightonme[AT]gmail[DOT]com.

[fzabkar]

My HDD just makes some rhytmic and extremely faint click - beep - click - beep sequences with two different tonalities few times, then stops. Doesn't even really spin up.

It appears that your drive may have a stiction fault, in which case a PCB swap won't help.

See this thread, but heed the warnings:
http://forums.seagate.com/t5/FreeAgent- ... 242#M11384

[Ayreos]

It appears that your drive may have a stiction fault, in which case a PCB swap won't help.

See this thread, but heed the warnings:
http://forums.seagate.com/t5/FreeAgent- ... 242#M11384

Thanks for your suggestion, i'll try with a PCB swap first anyway, since it's the less "Invasive" method, then try more extreme methods..

[networkpc3000]

hi,
i have it in stock. please feel free to contact me by email or skype if need.

[Eric Lee]

Hi, Sir, I have this working PCB in stock, pls contact my hotmail if you need it.

Thanks, Eric

[tianna_moon]

i need a controller card for my hitachi 1 tb hdt721010sla360
P/N 0138016
S/N mr23438p
MLC ba3013

MAR-2009

can anyone help me out, i'm new to this, i don't know exactly what to look for

thanks!

[fzabkar]

tianna_moon, could you describe the failure symptom?

One of us may be able to help you repair your board, or at least confirm that the problem isn't elsewhere.

[tianna_moon]

hi fzabkar! well there was actually a problem with the power cable, and one chip (i think its the TVS) on the PCB was burned. smoke came out from the cable and the pc rebooted. i read somewhere that i should find a PCB that has the same first two digits with mine and then replace it. is this true? thanks a million!

[fzabkar]

I believe you will need to find a compatible board and then also transfer the NVRAM chip from patient to donor. However, if the problem is restricted to a shorted TVS diode, then just remove it with flush cutters.

The usual culprit (12V TVS diode) is identified in this photo:
http://www.media-itservices.com/burned1.jpg

The drive will work without the diode, but it will no longer have overvoltage protection on the +12V supply. The other large diode is the 5V TVS diode. You can replace the 12V TVS with an SMBJ12A, and the 5V TVS with an SMAJ5.0A. Both are available from Farnell, Mouser, Digikey.

Some light reading ...

Hitachi firmware repair important basics:
http://www.datarecoverytools.co.uk/2010 ... nt-basics/

Hitachi data recovery tips you must know :
http://www.datarecoverytools.co.uk/2009 ... must-know/

How to diagnose and repair Hitachi hard drives:
http://www.datarecoverytools.co.uk/2010 ... rd-drives/

NVRAM and NVRAM Repair:
http://www.datarecoverytools.co.uk/2009 ... am-repair/

[tianna_moon]

ok, here's a picture of the PCB. i just noticed that another chip is a bit burnt by the other.
i'm not exactly sure what these two are.

[tianna_moon]

and here's the hdd

[fzabkar]

I suspect that you swapped the 5V and 12V inputs. The burnt component is the 5V TVS diode. You can remove it, but be absolutely sure of your power supply.

Good luck.

[DaftShoot]

I think I have a similar problem with the same disk model. I had the HDD in a USB external housing, by mistake, connect the power source of the labtop to the USB external housing, giving over-voltage and amperage.
I bought a hard disk of the same model to take the PCB and put it into the damaged disc. first thing I notice is that the PCBs are not exactly alike.
before changing the PCB, connect the new Harddisk to the PC, the PC recognizes the drive and mount the disk driver but never appears on my pc, I try this is another PC with the same result. this makes me think that the disc is not quite right.
I take the new PCB and place it in the old HDD. then, when I turn on the PC, it shows an error message when loading the disk, before load the operating system.

I was so excited about it, not notice that the PBC has a different number after two days, even when the same disc, I guess that this should be the difference in the PBC components.

Here the HardDisk Damaged Data
HITACHI MODEL: HDT721010SLA360
P/N: 0A38016
PCB: 0A29989
http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/7342/img9128d.jpg
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/4548/img91472.jpg

Here the new HardDisk Data
HITACHI MODEL: HDT721010SLA360
P/N: 0A38016
PCB: 0A29987
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/5228/img91272.jpg

other data, I put the new HardDisk on a NAS (D-link Share center 320), in order to see if the disc works. during formatting five error messages are showed. I press "skip and continue". finally finished formatting. Then I tried copying and playing files on the disk and apparently works well, also made Scandisck and SMART Test with the NAS, both result ok.

Returning to the case, after reading this post. try to measure with a tester PCB components damaged. place the tester to measure conductivity. conductivity observed in the components shown in red. these same components in the new PCB show do not conductivity.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/68 ... amage.jpg/

Please tell me what I can do. I do not know electronica, but every time there is a challenge trying to learn as much as possible. I am a chemist and amateur photographers. my best approximation to the electronics was at the university and when I was a child I had an electronic game called "150 in 1" made by RadioShack.

I'll go read the post that recommended by fzabkar.

Two questions. I can do with the damaged hard drive?
What happens to new HardDisk?

Best regards.

[fzabkar]

DaftShoot, remove the 12V TVS diode (L14 marking code), and heed the warnings in this thread. Hopefully that will do it.

Also see http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

As for your compatibility question, I'm not a data recovery professional, but I know that you must transfer the EEPROM ("NVRAM") at location U5 from patient to donor. Among other things, this IC (93C86) holds the location of the System Area which is unique to each drive.

One complication is the fact that one board has an external serial flash memory chip (25P10VP) at location U7, whereas the other incorporates the flash memory within the LSI MCU. I don't know what the requirements are for a match in such cases.

[hdrescue]

Hi people

If some one needs I steel have one of this drives in stock.

Model: HTD721010SLA360
P/N: 0A38016
MLC:BA3013

Send me pm if you are interested.

Regards

[DaftShoot]

please anybody can tell me what are the scuare brown component and what are the LS3 diode in the picture?


http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/68 ... amage.jpg/

saludos

[fzabkar]

please anybody can tell me what are the scuare brown component and what are the LS3 diode in the picture?


http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/68 ... amage.jpg/

saludos

L14 appears to be a TVS diode with a working volage of 12V and a breakdown voltage of 14V.

LS3 is another diode. I don't recognise its marking code, but I suspect that it may be a 3A Schottky rectifier that provides protection from reverse voltages. If so, then it will probably have a reverse rating of the order of 30V or more, in which case it will probably have survived any overvoltage.

The brown components are capacitors. There is no need to remove them. If they test shorted, this will be because the parallel connected diode is making them look bad. After you remove L14, the capacitors should test OK.