hi, after an short circuit on the PCB (BARRACUDA 3000GB ST3000DM001) and burn an TVS diode i changed the PCB (SAME PCB REV B, my old was REV C) ... hddzone tell me i can take REV A, B or C.
than i have desolder the BIOS chip with an headgun and swapped them with my old one.
(btw whole harddisc was crypted with TRUECRYPT)

but i cant find the hdd now, my question it is necessary to change the BIOS chip? .. and what i can do? .. thxalot for help

http://s8.postimg.org/n7yc4kykl/IMG_0432.jpg

thats the new pcb with my old bios chip ^^... maybe i need more soldering flex, thats my problem maybe?

Your post is a bit confusing.

BIOS IC is necessary to swap for this model drive.

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Hard Disk Drive (HDD), Solid State Drive (SSD, SATA, NVMe, etc), USB Flash Drive and RAID Data Recovery Specialist in Massachusetts

hey, yeah i have swapped the BIOS IC but the hdd doesn't work! ... maybe i need bit more soldering flux?

some boards are not specifically compatible. What is the full details of patient and donor drives?

Maybe the problem is not only in PCB?

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SAN, NAS, RAID, Server, and HDD Data Recovery.

why did you swap the board if the TVS diode burned out, just clip it off, bypass the fuse marked with a 0 (Both of them on the same rail as the burned TVS diode.) near the power connector and the drive should work normally again.

Then use that time to recover data to a new drive.

So if by a chance there's something else there will be enough current to make more damage. Is it a really good idea ?

ohh nice, thinking there was only this way with new pcb ... hold i will upload an picture with the "burned" pcb ...

so here thats the old pcb with burned tvs diode!

http://s9.postimg.org/hshar5qfz/IMG_0441.jpg

dont forget, the whole hdd was fully crypted with true crypt .... ppls around with some experiences like this?

At the moment you have a bigger problem, so at this stage it doesn't matter that the contents are encrypted. That may, or may not, be an additional challenge for you later.

Since you are doing DIY, remember that you are taking risks and that you might make the situation worse, so please understand that you take responsibility for any consequences of your actions, whether or not someone here suggested them - we might mis-understand something that you say, and might give (well-intentioned but) incorrect advice... Also, as you have been warned by Doomer, it is possible that your problem is not (or not only) with the PCB, and therefore DIY repair may be unrealistic. If the data is valuable to you, then you may want to reconsider whether you want to continue with your DIY approach. Of course if the data has no value and you are just "playing", then you have nothing to lose!

One part of your story that is unclear to me, is the current drive behaviour - you said that "the hdd doesn't work!". Unfortunately that is not helpful, as it is too vague. Do you mean that the drive does not spin; or the drive spins but is not detected in the BIOS setup screen; or the drive spins and is detected by the BIOS, but is not shown in Windows Drive Manager; or something else? Is there any clicking noise from the drive when it is spinning (if it spins at all)? Please give clear and exact details.

Finally, the photo of your EEPROM ("BIOS" as you call it) on your new PCB is not close enough and is from the wrong angle, to be confident about the soldering. Have you checked the soldering with a microscope or magnifying glass etc.? How much experience and success have you had in the past, with SMT IC soldering and removal? Are you confident that you did not overheat the EEPROM?

Oh much information thanksalot ... ok with "the hdd doesn't work!" i mean, i think they dont spin and if thats the case i know it is not an PCB issue but i will them check them now definitely!
About overheat, i have taken the headgun on level 1 (400 degree) and dont think so.
btw what is the best way right now ? ... maybe try with old pcb and bios ic and check if them spin?

i have checked the bios ic with a magnification light ... seems there is not enough soldering flux, i have soldering flux very thin one but i dont know if these the right one .... (sorry for my bad eng)

If I'm not mistaken, 240C is the max component temp before you destroy most ICs.

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Sabo Computer Repairs & Data Recovery

oh what the hell, i have read something about soldering and so and i think the right temp. is 350/400max. degree or so ... ?!

Thanks for your reply. I know that there are translation problems, but unfortunately you didn't answer several of my questions clearly, and I have run out of time to repeat them again now. Your answer about whether the drive spins or not, was strange: "i think they dont spin" - it seems that you are not sure?!

"if thats the case i know it is not an PCB issue" - no, it is not so simple for you to "know" that now. I wish you good luck, and perhaps someone else can try to diagnose even without clear answers, but I cannot do that.

240C = 464F. I had assumed based on your location, you were dealing with C, not F. Lead-free solder melts at 217C, i.e. 423F, so if you were using F, 350-400F is not going to do it.

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Sabo Computer Repairs & Data Recovery

It is very unlikely that heat damaged the flash chip. I don't see any discoloration on original PCB and it looks like clean unsoldering.
There are five things that come in mind, that might be the cause of the current state
1. You might be using incompatible PCB
2. You didn't solder chip correctly (overall soldering isn't good enough, looks most plausible judging by the soldering)
3. Preamp might be bad and that forces drive not to spin
4. The flash chip died along with TVS diode (unlikely)
5. The replacement PCB you using might also be dead (if you bought PCB only that can easily be the case)

Most important: the soldering needs to be re-done by a person who has experience, adding more heat isn't gonna help you but will only increase risk of damaging chip legs or chip itself. I'm sorry but looking on the picture I can tell that at the moment you soldering skills suck

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SAN, NAS, RAID, Server, and HDD Data Recovery.

Apply some soldering FLUX and re-heat the chip , that will guarantee the chip is properly soldered . U can use a soldering iron with a wide flat tip

I agree with ShaneWard. As has been made abundantly clear in this thread, it is far less risky for a DIY-er to bridge the zero-ohm resistors than to move the EEPROM. As for the soldering, it is not factory quality, but it looks reasonable. I would reflow pins 5 through 8, though.

At this point I would make some measurements on both the damaged PCB and the replacement. If the OP has a multimeter, I would suggest that s/he measure the resistances and voltages at the Vcore and Vio test points. I would first repair the damaged board, though. If I could see a photo of the complete PCB(s), then I could identify the appropriate locations.

BTW, I would recommend that others purchase their replacement PCBs from those vendors who include a free firmware transfer service. Had the OP done so, then this mess could have been avoided, and the total cost would not have exceeded US$50.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.