ST2000DM001 doesn't spin - Need a lot of advices

[Kissmyoops]

Hello everyone.

I've been reading this forum a lot... but now I'm struggling with what's next.

Let me explain my problem:

Few days ago while I was using my computer all of a sudden it just shut down.. and then it started to smell like burnt. My Seagate Barracuda 2TB (ST2000DM001) stopped spinning and of course stopped getting detected by computer. Fortunately, my dad had almost same HDD (In therms of specs and also same PCB model 100664987 REV B).

Let's call my HDD#1 and dono's HDD#2

First I just tried to swap PCBs. Then I started messing around with both ROMs.
HDD#1 + PCB#2 + ROM#2 spins but isn't getting detected by windows nor bios.
That makes me think that HDD#1 is mechanically fine, it spins normally.
HDD#1 + PCB#2 + ROM#1 doesn't spin.
HDD#2 + PCB#2 + ROM#1 doesn't spin.
That makes me think that ROM#1 is burnt. Is there any way to check if the ROM is dead?

... and to finish the job, my dad and I tried to "repair" PCB#1 because I though ROM#1 and PCB#2 weren't compatible so fixing PCB#1 should work... and we ended up BURNING more components in it.

What could I do now?

TLDR; I have burnt ORIGINAL PCB and much likely the ROM got burnt too.

Attachments

This is my PCB (PCB#1)
Yellow: Things that were burned after my computer was shut down. I cleaned connectors and added 2 new resistances.

Red: Things that were burned after trying to repair the other yellow things.

Pink: Shorted Diod.

[northwind]

Hola,

PCBs should be compatible, so it's not that.

Its not easy to "burn" these "ROMs", unless you overheat them. A lot.
I suspect your soldering job wasn't good that's why drives with patient ROM didn't spin up. Is the picture you posted your donor drive PCB (your dads?). Is it after you transferred ROM or?

I would suggest:
- If data is important stop now and consult a reputable DR professional. Assuming your soldering was bad and ROM is ok, it shouldn't be as expensive as you think.
- If data is not so important and you wish to keep hammering it, you can buy a programmer and try and read patient ROM contents.
-OR-
try to power up the drive with COM port connected and see what the terminal spits out. It could hint what's wrong with the drive.

buena suerte!

[magnetepazzo]

Hi, Please post a image of chip do you have swap, §I think you don't have swap rom chip

[fzabkar]

The chip that failed is a DC-DC converter. If it provides power to the ROM, then it's possible that the ROM was damaged by it. You could confirm this possibility by testing for continuity between the inductor and pin #8 of the ROM.

[Kissmyoops]

Hola,

PCBs should be compatible, so it's not that.

Its not easy to "burn" these "ROMs", unless you overheat them. A lot.
I suspect your soldering job wasn't good that's why drives with patient ROM didn't spin up. Is the picture you posted your donor drive PCB (your dads?). Is it after you transferred ROM or?

I would suggest:
- If data is important stop now and consult a reputable DR professional. Assuming your soldering was bad and ROM is ok, it shouldn't be as expensive as you think.
- If data is not so important and you wish to keep hammering it, you can buy a programmer and try and read patient ROM contents.
-OR-
try to power up the drive with COM port connected and see what the terminal spits out. It could hint what's wrong with the drive.

buena suerte!

Hola! Muchas gracias por las respuestas!

"If data is important stop now and consult a reputable DR professional. Assuming your soldering was bad and ROM is ok, it shouldn't be as expensive as you think."
- Data is more or less important. Almost all are family photos, but my wife may have 80% of them. So I think Imma keep trying to recover it.
In the other hand, we were able to solder ROM1 to PCB2 three times, because I though we didn't solder it properly but then, we tried to solder ROM2 to PCB2 and test with HDD2 and it still worked, so I don't think we soldered ROM1 bad all three times.

"If data is not so important and you wish to keep hammering it, you can buy a programmer and try and read patient ROM contents."
- That is the next thing I'm trying to do. But I'm afraid ROM1 is dead.

"try to power up the drive with COM port connected and see what the terminal spits out. It could hint what's wrong with the drive."
How do I do that? Please explain me! There's a lot of info here I'm still trying to understand. I'm willing to buy all hardware

Muchas gracias de nuevo!

Hi, Please post a image of chip do you have swap, §I think you don't have swap rom chip

Hello,
what do you mean with "you don't have swap rom chip"?

The chip that failed is a DC-DC converter. If it provides power to the ROM, then it's possible that the ROM was damaged by it. You could confirm this possibility by testing for continuity between the inductor and pin #8 of the ROM.

Hello fzabkar!

So I take the Milimeter and I do continuity test with inductor and pin #8... Where's the inductor? And after doing it... do I have to listen to a beep or not?

[Kissmyoops]

I wanted to edit, but I can't because I've to wait for moderators to approve my post so...

About that programmer thingie... How do I do that? I already bought CH341 but it still have to get home!

Thank you guys for your answers, it means a lot for me because you're trying to help a buddy

[fzabkar]

The inductor is the component on the left marked "R47". There is a similar inductor above, and an unmarked inductor at the right. Test all three -- one will be the Vcc for the ROM.

Also measure the resistance between pins 4 and 8 of the ROM.

Don't use the CH341, unless you have a "1.8V adapter" for it. This programmer has a programming voltage of 3.3V which is too high for your ROM.

[Kissmyoops]

The inductor is the component on the left marked "R47". There is a similar inductor above, and an unmarked inductor at the right. Test all three -- one will be the Vcc for the ROM.

Also measure the resistance between pins 4 and 8 of the ROM.

Don't use the CH341, unless you have a "1.8V adapter" for it. This programmer has a programming voltage of 3.3V which is too high for your ROM.

The actual state of PCB1 is horrible.
1 - It has no soldered ROM. (Guess I could resolder it if you think we can repair the whole PCB).
2 - It has no resistances on left side of the picture. They are removed because they were burned so I soldered the PCB2 resitances to this it (To PCB1) but then I resoldered again on PCB2.
3 - Diod on the top side is removed because it was shorted. The other on top is fine.
4 - There's another diod I guess? that is shorted too. (The one on the bottom right, marked in yellow)
5 - And don't ask about that broken component of the board (it was burned), so my dad though that was the responsible of all the mess so he tried to remove it. FYI, dad is not helping anymore. I fired him.
6 - MCU smoked so I think it was burned too!

That's why I would like to leave PCB1...

Anyway, if you think everything is repairable, I would like to try to do so!

(Do I need the ROM to be soldered to make the tests with Multimeter? Coz all tests were made without ROM soldered)
All three have conductivity with Pin#8.
Resistance between PIN4 and PIN8 is 9.80 in a scale of 20k Ω (I've no clue what these numbers mean so I'm just putting all piece of info).

And oh ya, I've ordered a 1.8V adapter too, thanks for the reminder.

Added some pictures

Attachments

Oh and the MCU is BURNED, or at least it smoked and has some... plastic thingie on it's middle.

ACTUAL STATE OF PCB1

Don't ask about the broken Inductor, my dad's a genious, I'm still not sure what he tried to do there.

FYI, my dad's not helping anymore.

ROM1

[fzabkar]

If all three coils measure 0 ohms with respect to pin #8 of the ROM, then they must all be shorted to each other. This means that the damage is very extensive.

You now need to measure the resistance between the ROM's 4 and 8 pins. If this is 0, then the ROM is dead.

[magnetepazzo]

The inductor is the component on the left marked "R47". There is a similar inductor above, and an unmarked inductor at the right. Test all three -- one will be the Vcc for the ROM.

Also measure the resistance between pins 4 and 8 of the ROM.

Don't use the CH341, unless you have a "1.8V adapter" for it. This programmer has a programming voltage of 3.3V which is too high for your ROM.

The actual state of PCB1 is horrible.
1 - It has no soldered ROM. (Guess I could resolder it if you think we can repair the whole PCB).
2 - It has no resistances on left side of the picture. They are removed because they were burned so I soldered the PCB2 resitances to this it (To PCB1) but then I resoldered again on PCB2.
3 - Diod on the top side is removed because it was shorted. The other on top is fine.
4 - There's another diod I guess? that is shorted too. (The one on the bottom right, marked in yellow)
5 - And don't ask about that broken component of the board (it was burned), so my dad though that was the responsible of all the mess so he tried to remove it. FYI, dad is not helping anymore. I fired him.
6 - MCU smoked so I think it was burned too!

That's why I would like to leave PCB1...

Anyway, if you think everything is repairable, I would like to try to do so!

(Do I need the ROM to be soldered to make the tests with Multimeter? Coz all tests were made without ROM soldered)
All three have conductivity with Pin#8.
Resistance between PIN4 and PIN8 is 9.80 in a scale of 20k Ω (I've no clue what these numbers mean so I'm just putting all piece of info).

And oh ya, I've ordered a 1.8V adapter too, thanks for the reminder.

Added some pictures

Hi friend, it's very easy, if winbond is of patient hdd you need to solder it on same new pcb and if you have good preamp your hdd work againd good

[Kissmyoops]

If all three coils measure 0 ohms with respect to pin #8 of the ROM, then they must all be shorted to each other. This means that the damage is very extensive.

Can we try to use the PCB2 then?

You now need to measure the resistance between the ROM's 4 and 8 pins. If this is 0, then the ROM is dead.

I can measure the resistance without being soldered, right?
If yes, then, pic says all.

Hi friend, it's very easy, if winbond is of patient hdd you need to solder it on same new pcb and if you have good preamp your hdd work againd good

Donor PCB isn't Winbond, does it matter?

I tried patient ROM with donor PCB and it didn't work.

What's a preamp?

try to power up the drive with COM port connected and see what the terminal spits out. It could hint what's wrong with the drive.

Could you tell me how do I power up the Drive with COM port connected?

Attachments

[magnetepazzo]

donor pcb need same part number, if you put patient rom on new pcb and not work you have another problem. preamp it's a chip on head inside the hdd. and if it's broken you heard a click when spin.

[northwind]

You have PM

[fzabkar]

I would read the ROM, if possible, making sure that you select the correct voltage. That will be 90% of the battle. Then upload the contents so that we can verify the checksums. It does appear that your ROM is dead, though.

I can help you to test the preamp, if you get this far.

[Kissmyoops]

donor pcb need same part number, if you put patient rom on new pcb and not work you have another problem. preamp it's a chip on head inside the hdd. and if it's broken you heard a click when spin.

When you mean part number, you mean PCB model, right? Both are 100664987 REV B

Oh, and I tried that. There's no click when it spins.

I would read the ROM, if possible, making sure that you select the correct voltage. That will be 90% of the battle. Then upload the contents so that we can verify the checksums. It does appear that your ROM is dead, though.

I can help you to test the preamp, if you get this far.

Is it... really... dead? I'm losing hope! The other ROM measures almost the same numbers and it isn't dead.

I'll wait anyway for my goods to get home (New PCB and programmer, with adapter 1.8V!)

Thanks everyone for replying me, I realy appreciate what you doing to me.

[aharami]

I'm having a very similar issue. I didn't want to hijack this thread so I posted a new one. I'd appreciate some thoughts there from the pros here
https://forum.hddguru.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=40543

[magnetepazzo]

Hi, I make a small summary so as to avoid confusion. 1 If the pcb is broken, a second identical pcb is sufficient to solve the problem. 2 After taking the second pcb it is necessary to remove the rom chip present on the broken pcb and put it on the new pcb. If after doing this the disk does not turn you may have soldered the chip badly, or in rare cases have a broken rom chip. If the rom chip is dead there is little chance of being able to recreate its contents with the adaptive parameters it contains that are specific to your drive. If you have a programmer you can read the contents of the rom to check if it contains information or if it is really dead. In my experience it is not uncommon to find dead rom chips, in my business over the last 4 years this has happened to me 3 times. I hope I have simplified the steps for you. Good day

[Kissmyoops]

Should be a identical PCB... at least same model 100664987 REV B. I've tried to solder ROM1 to PCB2 like five times.

I've tested PCB2+ROM1 with both HDD... no spin.
I've test PCB2+ROM2 with both HDD, both spin, but just one is detected by BIOS/Windows.

Guess... ROM1 is dead then.

Will try to read it anyway with programmer and adapter...

[fzabkar]

If you are lucky, the ROM may be corrupt rather than completely dead, in which case there is a chance that it could be rebuilt from firmware dumps. I don't hold out too much hope, though.

[Kissmyoops]

Well, let's see what my ROM reads says... Then we'll think about what's next.

Guess next is pay loads money to get it recovered