Data recovery and disk repair questions and discussions related to old-fashioned SATA, SAS, SCSI, IDE, MFM hard drives - any type of storage device that has moving parts
February 10th, 2009, 17:22
Zorb, it's not basical practical electronics : FRIED PCB. Likely culprit : crap power supply or reverse plugging. Result : the TVS triggered but it was not sufficient : at next power on the combo IC (already damaged or damaged by the not replaced power supply) gone KO. At this point if the preamp is fried (50% possibility) , game over. At least need compatible PCB with same FW or make PCBs compatible, and the new PCB can be fried too according to what happened inside the HDA. PERIOD.
February 10th, 2009, 21:33
I am currently using my spare 40GB Seagate Hard disk ST340014A which is currently working fine and its being used as a temporary hard drive for my computer. Well, someone is offering me a PCB for my 160GB drive which will cost me $60. I do not know where I can get that money, I only have $20 short for the repair of my main hard disk.
February 10th, 2009, 22:14
I have tested the motor pins of my hard disk from the 200 ohms dial of my digital tester and I am getting 295.
Off topic: Does the editing of post has time limit?
February 11th, 2009, 8:24
I have tested my PSU from my digital meter with the following readings:
5.7 Volts for the 5V
13.4 Volts for the 12V
These readings are from the molex connectors for hard drives and CD/DVD ROM drives, etc...
February 11th, 2009, 8:51
That's why you fried the drive. Max. 5,1/5,15 and 12/12,2 allowed.
February 11th, 2009, 9:31
@BlackST
If thats the case, why is my 40GB drive still working though its older than my 160GB drive.
February 11th, 2009, 9:35
Don't worry, in such conditions it will have problems. Just wait.
February 11th, 2009, 11:16
That motor resistance is actually really high too I think you're multiplying your reading by 200, you shouldn't be. Replace your power supply, get a decent one, quality over wattage. Seasonic would be my recommendation for quality with a fairly decent price. Get yourself a 350 watt PSU that costs $60 US. Steer clear of gimmicks, and don't buy store brand shit. If you're on a budget, any FSP product should be pretty good. Just avoid using that computer until you fix it, or you're going to cost yourself more than a hard disk!
If you want an idea of power usage:
Core2 Quad 3GHz
4GB memory
4 E7K1000 1TB hard disk RAID5
2 DVD-R
GeForce 9600GT 512MB graphics card
All on a 380W power supply one with two 17A 12V rails, but still only 380W Antec EA380 which is made for them by Seasonic.
Its draw, as measured by my APC 1500 UPS, is 290W with the CPU (all cores) and graphics processor both maxed out on distributed processing program, the power supply is 80Plus certified, which means more than 80% conversion efficiency. This means I am using 80% of the 290W.
The myth of the high wattage power supply is perpetuated because people love numbers. "Wow, I have a couple drives now, a big video card, and a dual core processor! I must need a 600W power supply!"
Biggest thing I have here has
2 x Xeon 5482 (3200MHz Quad Core)
16GB memory
8 15000RPM 15K300 300GB SCSI drives
GeForce 9800GX2 1GB
2 DVD-R
and it pulls about 560 watts out of its Enermax Galaxy 850 power supply.
February 12th, 2009, 6:01
I have recently bought a new PSU before it turns my 40GB hard drive into a Zombie... And now its running fine... Well, actually I am still thinking the offer of $60 for the board of my 160GB hard drive but I still need time to raise that $60 goal...
I have a question, can I use the SATA version of the same model as mine but its ST3160215AS model?
February 12th, 2009, 8:10
Not on this model. On some it will work, on some it will not.
Don't forget, you may have internal damage as well, so the board isn't guaranteed to work, though you may be able to resell it later as well if it does work, provided you don't damage it.
February 13th, 2009, 19:09
I found something interesting, I have searched Google about my PCB for my HDD.
Click thisAnd I found a website full of HDD PCBs but its located at China,
click here for the PCB chinese website, and I have also found out that it will cost me approximately $20 with shipping, the board costs about $11.
February 13th, 2009, 21:03
So what?
February 14th, 2009, 14:02
Your risk to take of frying your replacement board too, and also that the Chinese company's board is the correct part. Don't forget, it will take a couple weeks to get it.
February 14th, 2009, 19:47
Well, there are two 100431066 for my HDD from the Chinese company, one is 100427288 and another is 100427284. But in my original PCB it has the 100427284 main chip written on the IC. And also Rev B is the selling boards they have but mine is Rev C.
February 15th, 2009, 10:30
Well, look up interchangeability. It's easy to find on here. I don't know if those boards are compatible because I don't know that drive's compatibility "tolerance" well. Rev.x could simply be a new PCB layout. It could also be a difference electronically. Rule of thumb is to get the closest you possibly can in serial, which you don't appear to have for the replacement board.
February 16th, 2009, 8:04
The thing that I noticed is the memory module (which I think is the cache memory of the HDD) of mine has hynix brand memory while from the chinese company they use EtronTech. And for the comparison of my PCB vs the chinese company's PCB its identically equal except for the memory module installed on both PCBs.
February 16th, 2009, 14:16
No problem of the memory module you can go ahead and buy the pcb .
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