Fried WD10EADS PCB : 2060-701640-001 REV A

Right so I have just managed to get through to someone at WD themselves on the Telephone help line and they have told me that I can place an RMA advance return request.....

So basically they are sending me an exact matching drive so as I can attempt data recovery myself..he mentioned that I could open the drive up etc. and swap the board over ..They seemed really cool about this and the guy on the phone said it would arrive in less than 5 days....how good is that? If I do not return the old drive within 30 days of receipt then I get charged ... in this case the cost is less than I payed for a new drive over here in the UK (and my drive was on sale) amazing.

Anyway I just thought that this might be useful for the other folks who have burned out drives.

So fingers crossed they will send me the right board drive with the right board.

Thanks for the technical help which I might still need if this board doesn't turn out to be correct!

Not to be MEAN but, Please be careful. You might be out of the new replacement drive, YOUR DATA and about $200...

If WD said they will accept the opened up drive for the RMA, please get that in writting!!!

Before you do any damage, send it to the PRO in your area for the Free Quote. If it was just the PCB damage, you may get your data for about $200 - $300 Euro or so!!!

RussC wrote:Right so I have just managed to get through to someone at WD themselves on the Telephone help line and they have told me that I can place an RMA advance return request.....

So basically they are sending me an exact matching drive so as I can attempt data recovery myself..he mentioned that I could open the drive up etc. and swap the board over

Each board has unique, drive specific calibration data. These data would need to be transferred from patient to donor.

A firmware transfer should cost you about $20 max, not 300 Euro.

This vendor offers such a service, if you purchase a board from him:
http://www.hdd-parts.com/firmware-transfer.html

I believe that in your case the "adaptive" data are internal to the MCU, not in an external serial EEPROM, so a transfer is not something that you would be able to do with a soldering iron.

RussC wrote:D3 seems to not pass current .

D4 Seems to be shorted and is passing in both directions. Not good it seems

R67 looks to be open circuit

R 64 266K

Remove D4, and replace R64 with a wire link. Just make sure your power supply is OK, as this will remove the overvoltage protection from the +12V supply.

R67 should measure zero ohms. If it is open, then it also needs to be linked out. In any case, you will be able to compare the readings with your replacement board.

Be aware that the TVS diodes often do not succeed in restricting the damage to themselves.

Not to be MEAN but, Please be careful. You might be out of the new replacement drive, YOUR DATA and about $200...

If WD said they will accept the opened up drive for the RMA, please get that in writting!!!

Before you do any damage, send it to the PRO in your area for the Free Quote. If it was just the PCB damage, you may get your data for about $200 - $300 Euro or so!!!

Your are not being mean at all mate, I really appreciate any advice. I did mention this at length to the technician on the phone who seemed well aware of the EEPROM and its functions. He claimed and has confirmed via email that they will send me the right PCB to just swap over. I am just keeping my fingers crossed at the moment.

If it doesn't work then I will try the circuit tweaks that you recommend fzabkar.

Again really appreciate the help and advice from anyone.

Hi, I've got the same problem: my WD 1TB (2060-701640-002 rev A) burnt out (SMOOTH motor controller chip, RIP)
I want to by 2TB WD instead. Can I use PCB from my nu drive(2060-701640-007 rev A) to save my contents from fired drive?

help?

See this thread:
another-fried-wd10eads-thread-t16986.html

Assuming the boards are compatible, then you will need to transfer the chip at U12, or its contents, from patient to donor.

is this obligatory?
can i just buy the same hdd model (1:1) and just swap pcbs without rom transfer?

roborobo wrote:can i just buy the same hdd model (1:1) and just swap pcbs without rom transfer?

AIUI, there is an extremely low likelihood of success without a ROM transfer, even between identical models manufactured on the same day, in the same factory.

Some PCB suppliers will include a ROM/firmware transfer for between US$10 and $20.

Mine is : 2060-701640-002 REV A

Sata connector broke off and I was using too hot of a gun and melted it being careless. I have salvaged the 8 pin eeprom but thats all I have left. I lost everything and desparatly seek a pcb. I get 644 m/o ssi so data recovery isnt an option for me. Anyone?>

Can i use any pcb as long as I change the eeprom. .Let me rephrase that.. any pcb that is the same model different date?

WD10EADS-00M2B0
DCM: DANCNT2MAB
Date: 23 Oct 2009

because I put my eeprom on a newer (RMA) drives pcb they sent me and it spins up, but windows fails to initilize the disk.. They are same but the numbers on pcb are different.. I will await for confirmation before i change the eeprom again.. dont want to be out 2 drives

Some of these drive PCBs have embedded ROMs in the MPU and there is no 8 pin IC to swap ...

Simbalage22 wrote:Mine is : 2060-701640-002 REV A

Can i use any pcb as long as I change the eeprom. .Let me rephrase that.. any pcb that is the same model different date?

WD10EADS-00M2B0
DCM: DANCNT2MAB

because I put my eeprom on a newer (RMA) drives pcb they sent me and it spins up, but windows fails to initilize the disk.. They are same but the numbers on pcb are different

This supplier offers firmware transfers:
http://www.hdd-parts.com/firmware-transfer.html

You may like to contact him for advice.

Thanks for the replys.. So I contacted him when I posted here, and got a response he doesnt have anything with this model. I Cannot find anyone with this exact model pcb. I also watched a video on utube saying the swap doesnt work and they show it doesnt with 2 500gb drives close in date and everything. So if the drive has the 8 pin eeeprom then chances are if i find the identical month and year then it would be possible providing i transplant the 8 pin chip? any software to flash it yourself, or read the drive with the incorrect firmware.. Like image or something

Hi,
I have a 2060-701640-001 REV A and I was just curious as to what the C81 chip is specifically (As in the part itself) and what its function is?

Mine's burned out and I'm hoping to heck I don't have to buy an entirely new HDD...

eclipse74569 wrote:Hi,
I have a 2060-701640-001 REV A and I was just curious as to what the C81 chip is specifically (As in the part itself) and what its function is?

Mine's burned out and I'm hoping to heck I don't have to buy an entirely new HDD...

C81 is the small capacitor to the left of the 12V TVS diode in this photo:
download/file.php?id=2593&mode=view

The 12V diode is the largest component in that corner of the board.

Remove the diode with flush cutters. Check that R64 measures 0 ohms. If it is open, then bridge it with a wire link or a blob of solder. Be sure that your power supply is good, as your drive will no longer have overvoltage protection on the +12V supply rail.

UGH...Never mind! Figured it out!

Thanks, LOL I did more research :oops:

I really need to start reading more and more into this stuff...yes the D4 diode is burned out, but I'm considering having it professionally fixed, as I'm afraid that I'll only make things worse

.

Thanks again!

eclipse74569 wrote:yes the D4 diode is burned out, but I'm considering having it professionally fixed, as I'm afraid that I'll only make things worse :).

Your local TV repair shop can "professionally" remove a diode and add a blob of solder. :-)

In fact, if the resistor is OK, then snipping the diode should get you going straight away.

fzabkar wrote:
eclipse74569 wrote:yes the D4 diode is burned out, but I'm considering having it professionally fixed, as I'm afraid that I'll only make things worse .

Your local TV repair shop can "professionally" remove a diode and add a blob of solder.

In fact, if the resistor is OK, then snipping the diode should get you going straight away.

That's why I'm having it professionally done, they have equipment to test it whereas I don't I'm afraid. So I won't know until they test it out

If I have to get another PCB Board (I've considered that option), well all I have to say is Thank heavens mine doesn't have the U12 eeeprom, as it's on the other board for my My Book External HDD (which is where the messed up HDD comes from to begin with). Just snip the 8 pin off the new PCB and just go with the flow!

Fried WD10EADS PCB : 2060-701640-001 REV A

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