MK6034GSX PCB Swap

[fzabkar]

Almost none. It started at about .08 and went down from there. Tested another similar board and got the same results.

Also, had nothing to loose so tried with it connected to power and had 10 volts running thru the fuse on both sides.

Your resistance measurements make no sense. On what range were you measuring 0.08?

How can you expect a 5V laptop drive to tolerate a 10V supply?

With respect, I suggest that you consult an online multimeter tutorial.

eg http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/resistance.html

[Reg]

Not sure what I did the first time but I ran it again at 20K and got readings of about 5.9 - 6.0 from both sides of the fuse one of the ground pins.

I must be retarded. Sorry about that.

[BlackST]

@frank,
unfortunately for you I sell my services, if the op want to send the drive even without pcb or with broken mcu or rom, he will have his data. Of course I want money for it . It's no magic, I just spent a lot of time on it like many other people of this forum, so continue your research on tvs and drive slapping and maybe you'll be eligible for something even if you won't get a single penny for it. Live with it and get a life , life is too short .

[fzabkar]

Not sure what I did the first time but I ran it again at 20K and got readings of about 5.9 - 6.0 from both sides of the fuse one of the ground pins.

That's not a short circuit, but it seems much too low. I suspect that the diode is OK, but there is probably a damaged component in the vicinity of the motor controller chip. What resistance do you measure on your spare board?

BTW, please verify whether your power supply is delivering 5V or 10V, but don't connect it to your drive.

[Reg]

Same resistance on the donor board. And confirmed that it did read 10V. I thought it output 12V and 5V at 2A?

It was connected to an external power supply that I have used for quite a while with no problems.

[Reg]

Can you tell me when chip is the motor controller chip and I will start a closer inspection?

Thanks for all your advice.

[fzabkar]

It appears that you have damaged both the original board and the donor, in which case diode D1 is probably an ordinary Schottky rectifier intended to protect your drive from reverse voltages, not overvoltages.

FWIW, IC6 appears to be the motor controller. I suspect it will have a part number beginning with "TLS".

[Reg]

The new board still works fine when I put it back on the correct drive but has the same 10V reading and about 6 for resistance on the F1 fuse.

I'm pretty much SOL at this point, huh?

[Agent]

I'm pretty much SOL at this point, huh?

With DIY? Yes-sir.

[BlackST]

Usually this happens when things are "supposed" , "believed" , "seemed" and not "KNOWN".

[fzabkar]

The new board still works fine when I put it back on the correct drive but has the same 10V reading and about 6 for resistance on the F1 fuse.

I'm pretty much SOL at this point, huh?

You need to fix your power supply. It should be delivering 5V, not 10V. That said, I don't understand how your drive can survive such an overvoltage, unless the motor controller has a huge voltage tolerance, and the rest of the electronics is protected by the DC-DC converters.

Furthermore, a resistance of 6 ohms between the fuse and ground means that the drive would be dissipating approximately 17 watts (= 10 x 10 / 6) in the idle state. This is absurd.

Did you take your measurements on the 200 ohms range?

[Reg]

Can anyone suggest a company I can send the drive to to have the CPU chip put on a working PCB?

Thanks.

[BlackST]

Assuming MCU still work and there is no other damage...

[Reg]

That's what I would hope for.

Is there anyone in the Portland, Oregon area that would be suggested?

Thanks.