Looking for a hard drive board for a WD

[HighLight]

Hello everyone,

I have a 80GB WD800JB. It somehow has a control board problem I think and I'm intending to change the board. I said 'I think' because I couldn't see any burned IC on the board and when I power it up, it doesn't spin-up + there is no any head click sound.

Anyway, here is my question: above, rameez has placed two nice pictures about changing the ROM chip. I found it in right place on the board and it's an 8-pin IC. But, is't written "ST755" on it. I've googled the name and found that it is an "adjustable inverting switch-mode DC-DC rergulator". What is this now? I'm confused. Is this the right chip? I mean, am I supposed to change that one?

Thanks in advance...

[pcimage]

That's the wrong one.

Post a pic of your PCB, and we'll tell you which one.

[HighLight]

Thank you for your reply. Here is the picture of my board: http://www.homesoft.gen.tr/tmp/IMG_0919.JPG
It's a WD800JB-00CRA1, 17.02.2003, HSEHNT2CH.

By the way, I have noticed something: It's written down as 2060-001102-003 on the PCB (as track, not painting). But, it's written as 2061-001102-300C on the bar code of PCB (on paper). What does this mean? And which one is correct?

[pcimage]

The chip u need to swap is at U2, the 20-pin chip.

[HighLight]

Thank you pcimage.

Well, what about the PCB version conflict on the board that I mentioned at the post above? Any comment on this?

[pcimage]

Just use the P/N on the PCB (003)

[pepe]

Hi,

Match PCB P/N and swap ROM (U2) ICs, this should be OK.

pepe

[HighLight]

Thank you all, for your guidance. I'm feeling ready to try now.

[barat_n]

Guys
Should the DCM match exactly to avoid resoldering.

Does any one has exact board, I am looking for a board
WD800JB-00JJA0
2060-001292-000 rev A
DCM: DSBHNTJCH

[gsimon]

Guys
Should the DCM match exactly to avoid resoldering.

Does any one has exact board, I am looking for a board
WD800JB-00JJA0
2060-001292-000 rev A
DCM: DSBHNTJCH

On that type of pcb
you have to change NVRAM U12

[barat_n]

is NVAM different from 8PIN flash rom chip?
I am totally lame, can you please help me.

[barat_n]

Hi I have a western digital SE
WDxxxJB-00JJA0
DCM: DSBHNTJCH
PCB: 2060-001292--000 Rev A
but print at cable slot says: 2061-001292-A00 AD ......
I am finding it difficult to understand. Can you please help me.

[barat_n]

Successfully recovered my WD800JB-00JJA0.
Swapping U12 was not all that bad as I thought using hotair gun
Thank you all for your support
B

[saydee]

Hello,

I have the same board layout that HighLight has pictured. Though the drive model I have is slightly different, and some of the chip brands are different than mine. My drive suffered a power hit and does the click, click, click thing. Here are my details:

Model: WD800JB - 00CRA1
Date: 13 JUN 2002
DCM: HSEHCV2CH
PCB White Sticker: 0000 001102 - 200 G
I haven't looked at the number on the PCB board itself (yet)

Anyhow I've read that if I can procure a donor board that I would need to swap out the U12 firmware chip. But based on what was said above in this post by gsimon I need to replace the 40 pin IC (U2) located just below (when board is aligned so the copyright info is right side up) the WDC (C) 2001 copyright info. Is this correct? Is this the only chip I should swap, or should the U12 firmware chip also be replaced? Any thing else that needs to be replaced/swapped?

Could someone also answer in on how much of the numbers (DCM/PCB), and what numbers need to be matched, and what is close enough?

This is a great forum!

[saydee]

Edit:

I was looking at the wrong drive

Here are the stats:

WD800BB-00DKA0
DATE: 22 MAY 2003
DCM: DSCHCTJAA
PCB Sticker: 2061-001159-100E
PCB Board: 2060-001159-006 REV A

This board does NOT look like HighLights. It does not have the U2 ROM chip on it. I got a donor replacement board from eBay. Here are it's #'s:
PCB Sticker: 2061-001159-100 EB
PCB Board: 2060-001159-006 REV A

Will this board work for the drive without mods, or do I need to move the U12 firmware chip over? Or should I try it first, then if it "clicks" then move the U12 over?

Thanks.

[barat_n]

It would not work as is, you can try.
You have to move the ROM.

[saydee]

So I have found a working hard drive on eBay that is the same model and the DCM is off by only the last character. Obviously then, the 5th and 6th character match, and it was made two days after mine was made. The original drive I accidently bend the aperature arm when I was practicing with another platter in it. The original platters were moved (safely I hope!) to another drive, but that didn't work. A while back I bought just a PCB on eBay that was an acceptable match. I had taken that near matching donor PCB and put the original U12 ROM chip in it. With that said what is the best route I should take?

Should I:
Move the platter to the new donor drive and put the first donor PCB (with the original U12 ROM on it)
Move the platter to the new donor drive and use the donor drives U12 ROM (that is, swapping only the platter)
Move the platter to the new donor drive and move the original U12 to the donor PCB

Or should I:
Move the platter back to the original drive, swap the armature and head and use the PCB which has the original U12 chip on it?
Move the platter back to the original drive, swap the armature and head and use the donor PCB?
Move the platter back to the original drive, swap the armature and head and use the donor drives PCB with the original U12 chip on it?

I guess what I am asking is what parts must to follow what. I'm pretty sure that the original armature is wasted as well as the original PCB.

Is there any harm in trying one of these out first to see, or should I do "what is right" first. That's the route I really prefer.

Or, is there a better order or route should I take that I did not list?

[drc]

Wow. I'm going to go ahead and say lost cause.

[saydee]

Is it a lost cause because I am clueless

When I moved the platter I did it in a "clean" environment. I took my time and really made a good attempt at keeping the working environment free of dust (gloves, hard surfaced room, clean tools,...). Once I did that I then went back to the original drive just to experiment, learn and play, "how much..., before things break", thinking I would probably not need the drive again.

Since these old drives are cheap I thought I would give it a try. I backed up the drive regularly, so I haven't "lost" anything, so it's just a learning experience to me. Perhaps an accomplishment, but I'd say if this doesn't work then screw it. I mean I have an almost exact duplicate drive at this point...why not try.

I'd just like to know what the best way to approach this. Let's give me something to do this weekend

[drc]

Well, in that case do what everyone else had to at some point and try things until something works.