Fried WD10EADS PCB : 2060-701640-001 REV A

eclipse74569 wrote:... all I have to say is Thank heavens mine doesn't have the U12 eeeprom, as it's on the other board for my My Book External HDD (which is where the messed up HDD comes from to begin with). Just snip the 8 pin off the new PCB and just go with the flow!

I don't understand what you mean. Snipping EEPROMs is something that you DO NOT want to do. Furthermore, the fact that your board doesn't have an external EEPROM is a big minus, not a plus. When you swap a board, you need to transfer the EEPROM, or its contents, to your donor. This is because the EEPROM stores unique, drive specific information. Transferring an 8-pin chip is something that any TV repair shop can do. Unfortunately, your board's "adaptive" data are contained within the Marvell MCU (big "M"). This means that, if your board has other problems, then you will need to pay for professional data recovery to transfer the MCU to your donor, or recover the adaptives from the platters.

fzabkar wrote:
eclipse74569 wrote:... all I have to say is Thank heavens mine doesn't have the U12 eeeprom, as it's on the other board for my My Book External HDD (which is where the messed up HDD comes from to begin with). Just snip the 8 pin off the new PCB and just go with the flow!

I don't understand what you mean. Snipping EEPROMs is something that you DO NOT want to do. Furthermore, the fact that your board doesn't have an external EEPROM is a big minus, not a plus. When you swap a board, you need to transfer the EEPROM, or its contents, to your donor. This is because the EEPROM stores unique, drive specific information. Transferring an 8-pin chip is something that any TV repair shop can do. Unfortunately, your board's "adaptive" data are contained within the Marvell MCU (big "M"). This means that, if your board has other problems, then you will need to pay for professional data recovery to transfer the MCU to your donor, or recover the adaptives from the platters.

Ok...*blinks* Ok, what I mean is the eeeprom is not on the current messed up PCB itself! But it's rather on the first photo attached. Unless I am mistaken and I have been known to make mistakes

And if I'm understanding you correctly, that would have to be transferred over to the new PCB? I apologize for inconveniencing you

Attachments

Ok, I re-read that statement carefully and I believe I understand now (after two hours of looking around for that particular PCB, hence why I haven't just edited my post), I apologize it's 2:30am here in North Carolina, so I'm a bit heavy-eyed. Going to sleep now, and I will see if my repair shop will be able to transfer the MCU to the donor that I will be perchasing come monday.

Thank you again for all your help!!

So after getting rid of the d4 diode the drive works fine for now...so what I'm going to do is transfer just about everything onto another HDD and just go out and buy a new one. I won't toss the old one just for the fact I may need it in the future, but I don't want to risk surging the current one and loosing all my files forever!

Again, thank you very much for your help!

What if your eeprom is screwed? I did the transplant on 2 boards.. The original eeprom powers the drive but it clicks. the transplant does nothing.. Assuming the eeprom is dead what are my options? Can i still image the drive and get some of the data back? any help email me simbalage21a@gmail.com

Read some more or take it to a pro

Simbalage22 wrote:What if your eeprom is screwed? I did the transplant on 2 boards.. The original eeprom powers the drive but it clicks.

It appears that you have a HDA problem, not PCB.

To see how a drive behaves when the EEPROM is missing, disconnect the clock pin (pin #6). I suggest you do this on a spare PCB, not with the original EEPROM.

Hi.

I just signed up to give fzabkar a big thank you!

I had a fried WD10EVDS, and your info regarding D3, D4 and the resistors was priceless.

I found D4 was broken allowing voltage to pass through in both directions, so I carefully cut it off the PCB, and tried to fire up the HDD.

Worked a treat. Many many thanks again! Your help is much appreciated.

hi, i just joined the forum after weeks of reading threads simply to ask these questions (ps, these forums are really great, lots of useful info and helpful people!).

heres my situation, i have a dead WD - wd5000aaks-00uu3a0 -- sata 16mb cache -- wd caviar blue

dcm - HHNNNTJAGN
printed on pcb: 2060-701640-002 REV A
sticker on pcb: 2061-701640-V02 01PD4 XC BB12 0STC L 0006340 0346

theres no clicking, and it doesnt get detected by BIOS, and the circle and lines next to E9 look similar to the ones in the original picture (not an even color, but a bit darker on one side). from reading the threads i have concluded this is a dead/fried PCB, but no obvious chip meltdowns can be observed on the other side.

i can do an advanced RMA, and get a donor drive, but they do not have my exact wd5000aaks-00uu3a0, instead, last time i called they had:
-00e4a0, -00v6a0, -00wwpa0, -00z1a0

i also do not yet have a heat gun, but i do have a soldering iron (which i do not want to use for this job). so my questions are:

1- which of the above available models would be a match to my drive to be donor?
2- is the U12 replacement necessary in any case (regardless of donor PCB)?

thanks in advance

some clarifying info, i just tried connecting it back up with an external USB adapter, and you can hear the drive spinning up, doing 5 sounds and then the process repeats (im not sure if they are "clicking" sounds, but it sounds like the very soft sound some insects make when they chew through paper -- ive heard hard drive clicks before, and they are much louder than this) if i then connect the USB adapter to the USB port on my computer, the drive stops making those 5 sounds, and its just a constant spinning sound. if i disconnect the drive from the usb, it goes back to making the sounds.. hope that helps diagnose the problem better (in case i misdiagnosed it)

any help? im about to go through with this, guys..

Hi gurus

, I have fried up '2060-701640-001- REV A' PCB(one without u12) on my WD10EADS HDD.
I've replaced Smooth 7251 3.1 chip, d3,d4 diodes and R67,R64 resistors from similar board. D3 and R67 was burned again than I replaced Q2 and Q3, it seems now diodes don't get fried,there is no any heat on PCB but drive still won't spin up.
I've tried removing TVS diodes and wiring resistors...no success.
Does anyone have an idea what is the remaining problem? Could it be that replacing Smooth chip is also not working?
Now I'm thinking of getting other 2060-701640001 board and wandering is there a way to simply replace my Marvel MCU to that 'new' board, why need to transfer only firmware from MCU, why not replace the whole chip?
And I'm also confusing how one can transfer a content of ROM to other ROM if there is no any EPROM on board :-)

?
Thanks a lot.

If "D3 was burned again", this means that an external overvoltage killed it. A TVS diode does not fail as a consequence of an onboard fault. Check your power supply.

If you are prepared to pay for a commercial solution, and assuming that the damage is confined to the board, then you should be able to use WDR-UDMA (~US$200) to rebuild the ROM on a replacement board using the backup modules in the System Area on the platters.

http://www.chinahdd.cn/List.asp?C-1-9.html

"The new upgrade for ROYL drives; it can allow you to regenerate the corrupted ROM information."

Alternatively, if you have plenty of time and money, then you could buy Salvation Data's HD Doctor for WD. It costs around US$600, but you could resell it for $300 afterwards.

I'm not a data recovery professional, but here are two articles that appear to illustrate the required procedure.

Case Study on WD ROYL Drive Using WD Utility (regenerating ROM data)
http://www.salvationdata.com/blog/data- ... y-tools02/

Fix Identification Problem caused by Corruption of ATA Overlay module or ROM content (ROYL):
http://www.salvationdata.com/blog/fix-i ... m-content/

A potentially far cheaper alternative (US$50) is AFF Repair Station. You may like to contact the author and ask if this online utility will do what you need, ie regenerate the ROM contents from the relevant SA module (#109 ???) on the platters.

http://hdd-tools.com/products/rrs/

fzabkar thank you for your detailed response but, i don't think my Marvel MCU is corrupted (maybe it is), I just thinking of removing my Marvel to 'new' board and by that way to transfer all unique information to new board.Is it possible or I'm somewhere wrong? Why it(contents of Marvel MCU) should be transfered with special tool and programs(pro assist). Can I solider it out and place it to new board ? :?:

Thank you

You can transfer the whole Marvell cpu if your soldering skills are good .

sinmrki wrote:fzabkar thank you for your detailed response but, i don't think my Marvel MCU is corrupted (maybe it is), I just thinking of removing my Marvel to 'new' board and by that way to transfer all unique information to new board.Is it possible or I'm somewhere wrong? Why it(contents of Marvel MCU) should be transfered with special tool and programs(pro assist). Can I solider it out and place it to new board ? :?: :?
Thank you

If location U12 is populated, then you need to transfer this IC to your donor. If U12 is vacant, then you will need to transfer the MCU. However, not many DIY-ers have the skills or the equipment to do this.

Moreover, considering the damage to Q2 and Q3, then it is very likely that either the Vcore or Vio supply may have been damaged (the photos aren't clear), in which case you would have to be concerned about any component that is connected to either of these supplies. This includes the CPU and SDRAM.

One quick test is to measure the resistance of the Vio rail. You can do this by measuring the resistance between the Vcc and Ground pins of the SDRAM chip. If the result is 0, then the MCU may be damaged.

Thank you, we have equipment and some skills to do it

, but It would be nice if there is any circuit scheme for this 2060-701640-001 REV A board or for some similar to get a clue what is happening here..

I don't have any circuits, but you shouldn't really need them to troubleshoot power supply problems. Essentially what you have are switchmode buck regulators like this ...

http://i.cmpnet.com/powermanagementdesi ... t_Fig1.gif

The MOSFET chopper is controlled by the SMOOTH motor controller IC. In earlier designs, the MOSFET and Schottky diode were discretes. Later on they were combined into a single FETKY package, and still later on they were incorporated into the motor controller's own silicon.

The buck regulator typically provides the Vcore supply for the MCU (an ARM based microcontroller). The Vio supply can be similarly generated, or it can be derived from a linear regulator consisting of a single NPN pass transistor, also controlled by the SMOOTH chip.

The negative supply for the preamplifier (inside the HDA) is often derived from an inverting buck-boost regulator (the third topology in the abovementioned diagram).

The application circuits in the following datasheet should be helpful to you:

L7250, SMOOTH, spindle motor + VCM controller, ST Microelectronics:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datashe ... Xyuswx.pdf

Hopefully the following will also be of use to you.

Tutorial - how to locate the basic test points of an unfamiliar HDD PCB:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/Tu ... 0411N.html

Collections of datasheets:
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HD ... ntrol.html
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HD ... _Regs.html

God damn... I've got the same revision PCB, it was spinning but BIOS couldn't recognize HDD, I've replaced my original MCU to this new PCB - now won't even spin! If my MCU is fried up do I have further options to get this wd10eads working or at least to recover data.

These are numbers:
WWN:50014EE2589C3B2B
DATE:26 AUG 2009
DCM:HARCHV2MAB
LBA:1953525168

on PCB
2061-701640-700 02PD2 XF 8R12 28H2 2 0003070 0073

If I have to start looking for another replacement PCB what numbers are of main interest? Thank you again

Fried WD10EADS PCB : 2060-701640-001 REV A

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