there's no need to get hostile, that wasn't my intention. At first i wanted my data, but now i like to know more about HDD's. Sorry for me asking, i'd better go somewhere else if i want to know more. Then you can keep your little secrects and especially keep telling yourselves that you are the best DR guy in the world.
What a bunch of crap.... are you all working in area 51.....TOP SECRET....

Some of us do want to help you. Just help yourself first - put pictures of the top of both your drive and the drive you intend to use as a PCB donor. So we can tell you wether the F/W will match.

Be honest then .

Just guessing intentions and some IF/THEN :

If you want some general info, Google and Wikipedia (with all the limitations) are your friends.
If you want to do something else or make money , this is another thing.
If you are trying to help a friend or recover someone else data , think twice about doing it on your own .
If you really want, use PM to contact the people you think they will or can help you the way you want. Then they may give you their IM contact or email.
If you need a toll-free call center for your answers, maybe this is the wrongest place especially if you didn't use the "SEARCH" function first.
If you want specific answers to the problems about the disk you have at hand, try calling Samsung (at this point....). Figure out why the drive manufacturers (with one known exception) doesn't have in-house DR service for their drives !
If you really want other useful resources , contact the manufacturers of the DR standard equipments.
If you go to other forums , depending on where you go, you'll miss this one very badly in a nanosecond or less.
If you don't like this place, finally, this is "as is" and there's nothing to do.

- i have googled (found this forum)
- don't want to make money, i have a good job so don't need it
- don't want to recover friends HDD, too risky
- where else is the forum for, do i need to PM? Forum is for specific questions and answers or tips, PM is for things you don't want someone else too know like prices or adresses.
- i did use search option, before i posted question
- have contacted samsung and they referred me to DR company in Holland with 25% discount, but too expensive 800 euros
- ask manufacters of DR equipement, why not ask the users of the tools
- don't know other forums
- i like this place but don't like secrecy

- where else is the forum for, do i need to PM? Forum is for specific questions and answers or tips, PM is for things you don't want someone else too know like prices or adresses.

Original purpose (you confirm it is lost) was another , like it or not.

- ask manufacters of DR equipement, why not ask the users of the tools

You won't get the answers you want and it is pointless as you don't have them.

- i like this place but don't like secrecy

Nowadays the two things collide.

so i've bridged the fuse but still nothing.
But the chip with the M on is getting warm, not hot, but warm.
Don't know if that's a common thing.

hmm nobody???

Or is this the code of silence

Have to wait for my donor to come in, then i'll try again. No i wait and think how to tell the wife.

The most expedient solution is to transfer the flash memory chip (AT25DF041A) to your donor PCB.

Otherwise, I would say that a warm MCU may be normal, except possibly if it is being held in the reset state by a POR signal from the motor controller. If you wish to troubleshoot the board, then I would check the output voltages of the 3 switchmode DC-DC converters. These DC-DC converters are in the vicinity of the three coils, 1R2, 4R7, and 4R7.

The 1R2 coil is part of the negative supply for the preamp. There is a Schottky flywheel diode immediately to the left of it. The anode (non-striped end) of the diode connects to the 3rd pin from the bottom left corner of the preamp connector. That's the negative supply pin, probably -5V. The 4th pin is probably a +5V supply for the preamp.

The two 4R7 coils are part of the Vcore and Vio supplies. Measure the voltages at the left pin of each coil. Vio should be +2.5V, Vcore is probably 1.2V.

ESMT, M13S128168A-5T, DDR SDRAM, 2M x 16 Bit x 4 Banks, 2.5V:
http://www.esmt.com.tw/DB/manager/uploa ... 28168A.pdf

Atmel, AT25DF041A, 4-megabit 2.3-volt or 2.7-volt Minimum SPI Serial Flash Memory:
http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod ... oc3668.pdf

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

You mean like this Fzabkar????
I use one probe of my fluke on marked items and where do i put my other probe of the multimeter???
Or do i measure over the coils????

Root cause for your problem is a faulty power supply, which generates high(er) voltage spikes. Please replace it asap.!
Please don't use OHM test, use DIODE test instead. The voltage should be between 0.6V and approx. 1.8V.
There is no fuse on this PCB.

If nothing really helps, take (another disc with) the same PCB, and replace the FLASH-ROM: the small chip with 8 pins, reght beside the "M"-Controller.

Cheers,

Thomas

Yes, your illustration is correct.

The black (common) lead goes to ground. Use one of the ground pins at the SATA power connector:

http://pinouts.ru/Power/sata-power_pinout.shtml

Set the meter on the appropriate DC voltage range, eg 2VDC or 10VDC. Be very careful not to slip with the probes, as serious damage could result.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

so the resistor next to the 5v tvs isn't sort of a fuse??

I can't see the marking, but if it is an "N" or "S", then it's an smt fuse.

Littelfuse Surface Mount Fuses, N = 2A, S = 4A:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/48294.pdf

In any case, the component connects the +5V supply pins at the SATA power connector to the +5V plane of the PCB, so it must be a protection device of some sort.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Why don't you try a PCB swap? I think this is easier. But if the PCB has a BIOs you also need to swap it.

Maybe he's a soldering fetishist...
Robbie is right - swap PCB + FLASH-ROM (see my last post).

See my post on page 1.

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

delchrys simulated voltage pulses. I don't know, if on the primary, or secondary side of power supply. But that's equal - the power supply was not able to follow these load changes, and generated overvoltage spikes.
Also the hard disc has 3 voltage converters, which don't like spikes, or generate them by themselve. These discs are consumer electronic, not perfect

So not only the 12V TVS diode is dead, also maybe 1 of the 3 converters (you can see the 3 coils), and / or the voltage / motor controller circuit.

I would not spend too much energy in reverse engineering, or repair a $50 drive. Just take another pcb, swap FLASH-ROM - that's it. In case of emergency the pre amplifier is also dead, but that's the only risk.

i did not simulated voltage pulses. I mean by hard reset, close windows with power off, and soft reset without power off. But maybe i have had an voltage spike i don't know, it could happen anytime, or an shortage while adding a fan with system on. I only know that my drive is dead for the moment, and that some other guy in Holland could sell me his drive as Donor.

But...

The asshole mailed me that he has sold the drive to someone else cause he needed the money (25 euros), Sucker............

No i have sent multiple emails to shops in holland if they could look if they have my possible donor. So in the meantime i'm going to try to reverse engineer the PCB, maybe i find something.

Thanks for the reply all, i hope you can help me further, i'm going to measure pcb tomorrow Friday. Going to sleep now.

Freedom of information exchange here is inversely proportional to the perceived willingness of information recipients to copy and paste said information all over the entire internet (see 7200.11 issue)

_________________
You don't have to backup all of your files, just the ones you want to keep.

Finding a donor is not such a big problem, e.g. take a HD503HI or so. Try eBay.
Only the PCB (F3_1D Rev. 03, maybe also Rev. 01 or 02) must be equal. Try! Of course ROM must be swapped.

Switching on / off systems or pressing Reset knob changes the load (processor, hard disc, ..) - and the power supply must follow these load changes quickly. That's what I mean with voltage "pulse" simulation. Old or cheap power supplies cannot follow fast enough, and do "overswing" (it's a translation of a german word, I hope you understand, what I mean).