Hi Everyone,

About a week ago, I replaced a power supply on my computer and when I fired up the computer, my Maxtor 80gb began clicking. It was working fine before. I took out the drive, attached it to a IDE to USB adaptor and tried turning it on that way. Next thing I knew, smoke was coming out of the hard drive. At this point, the drive no longer even spun up. I bought a replacement pcb for the drive and hoped that would be the cure. The drive did turn on and spun up, but the persistent clicking is still there.

Do you think the clicking is due to the pcb board not being a correct fit? My old pcb was F4FYA and this one M6FYA. They have the same smooth and ardent chipsets, but my original has a Samsung chip, while the replacement pcb uses a different chip (hynex?).

Any suggestions here? I have a ton of pictures which I would love to salvage, so any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

AIUI, the original clicking is symptomatic of weak read heads or bad sectors.

Your best approach is to repair the original PCB.

The following thread has detailed instructions and photos:
http://forums.seagate.com/stx/board/mes ... 109#M18109

If the original PCB is beyond repair, then you will need to transplant the serial EEPROM chip from patient to donor. This is because it stores drive specific calibration data determined at the factory.

Post a pic of both PCB's.

Most DM9 do not have an external ROM.

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you should asking for pics have a look after mention about ROM chip. for this kind of hard drive just few drive has ROM chip. i think around 5%. some drive attach ROM chip for cut head.

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Here are pics of both boards:

My Original Board which is now dead:
http://home.comcast.net/~gbcd/fried_pcb.JPG

The replacement board I bought from an online store:
http://home.comcast.net/~gbcd/replacement_pcb.JPG

Hi,

The RAM chip (samsung/hynix) not important difference.
The F4FYA and the M6FYA generally compatible, but there are more types.
You should match the 4 letter code on the top lid this way:
M,x,x,M (M: match, x, not important)

If you find the F4FYA with the matching 4 letter code, your drive will work again, depending on the preamp's condition.
Yes, your preamp can be burned too, keep this in mind!

Good luck,

Janos

The problem I have is that my replacement pcb came from an online vendor - I bought just that part. I don't actually have a donor drive to check the cover for exact matches.

This is real problem.
Than you have a pcb for paperweight.

Next time ask first....

And in this time you should measure the preamp chip before buy another pcb for nothing....

Janos

Thanks for the info -- two quick questions:

1) What are the chances that the 12V TVS (transient voltage suppression) diode is shorted and should be removed? Where is it located on the Maxtor DM pcb?

2) Any good tutorials on checking the preamp chip?

Appreciate all the help!

PCB or TVS are not the issue here, your PCB has no external ROM and either PCB should work with your drive if it weren't for other underlying issues.

It's odd-on favourite that your preamp is bad and so needs replacing.

Now it's time to stop and send to a pro, you have gone as far as is sensible to go "DIY"

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1) This pcb is not seagate, and have no TVS like seagate.

2) use the search button in this forum, you will find it.

3) yes, it is a general good suggestion, to stop right here, and seek for professional help.
If your data is really valuable, and you can't live without it, seek for help.
If your data is would be goot to get back, but not really important, than go, and search for preamp measure...

Janos