hi looks like my hard drive given up the goose

250gb worth of tv shows and films

burnt the main power chip.

can someone confirm for us that this is the correct one

part used was a FDFS2P102A

Integrated P-Channel PowerTrench

as the original was burnt to read the last numbers

i replaced the part and its just burnt out again

smooth chip is running warm

looks possible that the motor itself is seized up as testing it with a meter
it reading low
the meter is reading 1.2 ohms

so do you think doing a platter exchange will work for us

getting the same hard drive and swapping it right over.


thanks guys

Is the FDFS2P102A MOSFET associated with the preamp? If so, then I'd look there first.

I suggest you study the application diagram in the following datasheet.

L7250, SMOOTH, spindle motor + VCM controller, ST Microelectronics:
http://wandrew.regruppa.ru/PCInfo/TechDoc/L7250(Smooth).pdf
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datashe ... Xyuswx.pdf

Notice that the SMOOTH chip monitors the onboard power supplies. Confirm that its NPOR (Power On Reset) pin is not in the low state.

If you need a PCB ...
http://www.onepcbsolution.com/maxtor-di ... e-pc9.html

I notice that some versions of the PCB have a serial flash chip at U200. I don't know whether this is important.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-4446369223 ... 45_6560208
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-4446369223 ... 45_6334747

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

How is it?


Which one? 9,10,16 ..... ?

I suppose that this is Calipso or Falcon .

Before PCB replacing or soldering something you should check preamplifier ( it is inside HDA) for short circuit. Doesn't matter what was burned TVS, fuse or some power converter it is rule in many DataRecovery shops. Especially for this families.

Fzabkar right:
FDFS2P102A MOSFET associated with the preamp.

So, check it with multimeter.


I don't think so.


Very rare event for this families.

_________________
Angel Data Recovery

sorry guys i could not edit the drive its self is a Maxtor Diamond max plus 9 250GB SATA not a usb model.

the drive just gone no warning which sucks

i try the information given and report back later


thank you for sharing and helping us out

ok finally found out what the issue is

its the L 7250 SMOOTH MOTOR DRIVER SHORTED OUT


how can i remove this as its got a bottom metal plate
with out damaging it
how to remove these with out damaging with heat




thanks

I'm confused. Are you a data recovery shop or not?

_________________
You don't have to backup all of your files, just the ones you want to keep.

ok please read this again if you done a repair on these drives you should know what im on about

there is a metal plate on the bottom of the main smooth ic chip

heatsink

which must be soldered from underneath the board

this is not typical unsolder job and replacement of the chip


we got a preheater and we used Q CHIP to remove it

but the main problem is resoldering a new ic chip onto the board

the heat can damaged the chip when you re solder

but what the best way to resolder these ic or tools

looking for advise to see what others use

thank you

craig, never thought about buying a rework station ? I see no problems changing the L7250 or anything else. The proper chemicals like flux and solder cream do the job.

i have got a good rework station but this motor chip has got a heat spreaders.

so its a pain

im going to get another board and swap the rom over
just thought there a easy way to do it

qchip removes it no problem its redoing the ic once its of the board


thanks

L7250 could be easily removed with a heat gun.
Just have to practice few times.

_________________
www.datarecoveryne.com

His problem seems the resoldering. You are not cleaning, using proper smd cream and reflowing, quite sure. Try on scrap board soldering the chip only - not the pins- using the right materials.

yes the motor ic can be removed with a heat gun no problem
best way is using Qchip easy


but its resoldering the ic-chip itself

i try some test on scrap boards and see how we go


thanks all

Soldering it back should be the easy part. Apply some flux on the board (preferably some no-clean paste), place the IC then apply flux again on top of the legs. Draw the solder gun across the legs. Shouldn't take more than a second or 2 for each side. The heat will pull the solder up to the backside of the legs. Works for me every time. The first few times you do this, you'll probably get a few bridges but just re-apply some fresh flux to that spot and hit it a split second with the tip of your iron. You can also do this with a re-work station but I'd cover the top of the IC with some kaptop tape first. I've always been afraid of damaging these small IC's with hot air however. I've spent years re-balling nvidia chips where some IC's can be overly sensitive to the added stress of an extra thermal cycle.

L7250 is quite strong, of course if you "bake" everything at 400 deg. C I think at least it will develop latent failure.
I prefer using solder cream that has a fixed, precise melting point and incorporates flux, using a sort of "reflow" technique. Up today it worked.