A customer's Western Digital drive isn't spinning or being detected by BIOS.

Model: WD5000AADS-00S9B0 {1 platter, yay!}
Date: 06 AUG 2010
DCM: HBRCNT2AGB
DCX: 5007S9495
Made: In Thailand
PCB Marking: 2060-771640-003 REV P1
PCB Sticker: 2061-771640-N03 02P

Customer's house had a power surge, and his power supply and motherboard blew. On the hard drive PCB, the Smooth L7251 3.1 is clearly fried, and a few other parts are possibly discolored. In the process of frying, this chip melted the foam pretty well in the area. It does have an 8 pin EEPROM at U12. Hopefully the EEPROM is unaffected. Also, hopefully it died before affecting the motor and/or heads.

I already had another WD5000AADS-00S9B0, but unfortunately it's PCB is 2060-701640-001 REV A {2061-701640-300 AAD1}, and is the version without an 8 pin EEPROM at U12. (As expected, no luck with it.)

Does anyone have the correct PCB available? If so, what would you charge for it -- and for you to move the EEPROM over if I mailed you the fried PCB? I have very limited soldering experience and would prefer to have both taken care of.

You have PM

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Soldering is something your local TV/AV repair shop can do.

Otherwise some PCB suppliers include a firmware transfer for US$10 - $20.

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Did the drive click?

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With the mis-matching new PCB, the drive spins up and sounds like normal. I don't hear any clicking. However, BIOS never posts. Computer locks up with just an underscore in the top left. Good sign, I hope.

Yes, better then clicking

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I should have mentioned that I'm in the United States. Anyone in the US have the right PCB and able to swap the EEPROM? Going out of country is possible, but wanted to check before having the increased shipping cost and customs delays.

I haven't had any experience with any TV repair shops in the area. I think this time, I'm going to have the place I purchase the PCB from swap the ROM.

But, is it generally OK to trust an unknown TV repair shop with this? Do people traditionally have good results with them, making sure to prevent heat damage like using a heat sink?

See this thread:
http://www.deadharddrive.com/forums/vie ... =9531#9531

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Thanks for that link fzabkar!

Just realized something I should have thought about and asked in my original post.

The identical model hard drive I already have has a PCB with a very similar number.

.................Data drive.........................................................................Identical drive
PCB............ 2060-771640-003 REV P1....................................................2060-701640-001 REV A
PCB Sticker.. 2061-771640-N03 02P {XC BP01 09KN K 0002050 1052}...........2061-701640-300 AAD1 {XC 9N16 08DE L 0006060 0066}
{the information between brackets I assume is a serial number, and isn't actually shown in brackets on the drive, just used them here}

As I mentioned, this identical drive's (identical meaning full model number) PCB has a U12 spot, but no EEPROM there.

If the data drive's eeprom is moved over to the identical drive's U12 spot, should this work? I mean first, would the identical drive pcb be designed to use an eeprom if one is there. And, second, with an eeprom moved, are those pcb's part numbers similar enough to work?

I assume the answer is no, but want to check before I maybe buy something I don't need. My assumption is that the PCB numbers aren't close enough of a match, and that the identical drive's pcb wouldn't be smart enough to have embedded adaptives in a chip, but ignore those and use an eeprom instead if and only if an eeprom is located at U12.

Oh, and why is there a part number on the PCB itself, and on a sticker on the PCB? Which matters to match? Is it as easy as the imprinted part number on the PCB was the first version, and the sticker is used to update the part number for future firmwares? If so, does that mean the PCB numbers just need to match but the sticker numbers don't, if we move the eeprom?

Below are pictures of the identical drive's pcb

I can't answer your question , but see this thread:
western-digital-with-power-t15990.html

ISTM, that the external EEPROM takes precedence over the internal, so a chip transfer should work.

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1. Transferring flash chip to PCB with empty spot will not work
2. PCBs are not identical

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I had one of these drives the other day with the same issue, fried SMOOTH chip. I got an identical PCB, did ROM swap, drive spun up but clicked. Turns out the surge fried the preamp as well

In your case seeing that it doesn't click, I'm guessing you're lucky that the preamp is still ok.

Usually matching the number on the PCB is sufficient, not the sticker. So for example, 2060-771640-003 REV A (random example from a drive that is lying in front of me)

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