Hitachi 1TB HDT721010SLA360 (went in smoke)

[GTR-R35]

Before I start,I'm green when it comes to this stuff,I just want my Important files off that Hdd..then format and ship it for a warranty replacement.

About 2 days ago I tried to plug in like I usually do for one of my 2 hdd's with USB connection and out of nowhere small amount of smoke came out? I immediately disconnected to not further damage the unit.
Now I'm not entirely clear when you fellas say (power cable of the sata/ide to usb was connected up side down) what does that exactly mean? I'm %100 sure USB cables fitted perfectly,you just know,they either plug in or not.


In the picture (I apologize for the quality) I think its self explanatory,black chip *D4* went in smoke ? (Marked in-Red blown,Yellow still intact?)

Got a few questions to make sure I get this right and safe as possible:


.When it comes to removing "diods" I have to take em' both out or just the 1 got blown ?

.If everything goes well and disc starts spinning should i go with the same USB connection or this time hook up blown Hdd in my PC ?

.What would you recommend.. time is money in this situation: copy n' paste/move files or back up option to a new Hdd ?


I tried to write down info as much as possible if anything, let me know please.

Thanks so much,and I appreciate your time and any help you can provide me.

[fzabkar]

Your drive has sustained an overvoltage on the +5V input. Something is wrong with your power supply. If the PSU is a 4-pin mini-DIN type with separate +12V and +5V pins, then it's possible that you've used the wrong supply for your enclosure. Otherwise, if the PSU is a +12VDC adapter, then the +5V rail will be generated inside the enclosure by the USB-SATA bridge board, in which case the enclosure may be faulty.

Once you have confidence in your power source (connect the drive to your motherboard, if possible), then you can remove D4. However, be aware that you will no longer have overvoltage protection on the +5V supply.

That said, the motor controller chip (U3?) appears to have a fleck on it. Hopefully that's not a burn mark or blister. I'd also examine transistor Q2 to the right of D4. I can't tell if the blister is a mould mark.

[Vulcan]

@GTR-R35:

Just a couple of comments...

Before I start,I'm green when it comes to this stuff

Then you need to be very careful, as there are risks with any DIY recovery attempt. We can't know via a web forum, whether you have the necessary skills or not (we've never met you, seen your electronics tools etc etc!)... Do you understand about the necessary precautions when handling static-sensitive electronics?

I just want my Important files off that Hdd..then format and ship it for a warranty replacement.

Any attempt at a DIY fix of the PCB will leave obvious indications and (if I understand US consumer law correctly) will void your warranty - so before you do anything, you must decide between warranty replacement or DIY recovery attempt. As we say here in England: You can't have your cake and eat it.

(power cable of the sata/ide to usb was connected up side down)

If the power lead to your SATA-USB bridge is a 4-pin Molex type (same as used on PATA/IDE disk drives), which is common to many such external bridge units, then connecting it upside down will cause exactly what fzabkar has explained - ie sustained overvoltage on the 5V power input, since the 12V power supply will then be connected to that 5V power input.

[GTR-R35]

Your drive has sustained an overvoltage on the +5V input. Something is wrong with your power supply. If the PSU is a 4-pin mini-DIN type with separate +12V and +5V pins, then it's possible that you've used the wrong supply for your enclosure. Otherwise, if the PSU is a +12VDC adapter, then the +5V rail will be generated inside the enclosure by the USB-SATA bridge board, in which case the enclosure may be faulty.

Once you have confidence in your power source (connect the drive to your motherboard, if possible), then you can remove D4. However, be aware that you will no longer have overvoltage protection on the +5V supply.

That said, the motor controller chip (U3?) appears to have a fleck on it. Hopefully that's not a burn mark or blister. I'd also examine transistor Q2 to the right of D4. I can't tell if the blister is a mould mark.

Thanks guys for the speedy replies.

This is the adapter I'm currently using at the moment .

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6812156017





fzabkar,that is a lil' too technical for me,however I get the idea that the PSU adapter might be faulty? works like a charm with other hdd's though..maybe it's just a matter of time before the rest of my units will go in smoke

If I understand you correctly I can go ahead and actually plug in my blown hdd to PC's motherboard without taking out the diod and see if it has any live in it? and if it doesn't boot up/spin ONLY then it should be removed ?

Can you please explain in short, how diod should be safely removed?

Once again,thanks so much for your help.

[GTR-R35]

Then you need to be very careful, as there are risks with any DIY recovery attempt. We can't know via a web forum, whether you have the necessary skills or not (we've never met you, seen your electronics tools etc etc!)... Do you understand about the necessary precautions when handling static-sensitive electronics?

I hear you,and thanks for the heads up.I'll make sure Im taking every precaution possible.

Any attempt at a DIY fix of the PCB will leave obvious indications and (if I understand US consumer law correctly) will void your warranty - so before you do anything, you must decide between warranty replacement or DIY recovery attempt. As we say here in England: You can't have your cake and eat it.

Yeah,I rushed there with a replacement did I ..once diode is gone,Warranty is void..so its pretty much going straight in the trash once I get my files back.

If the power lead to your SATA-USB bridge is a 4-pin Molex type (same as used on PATA/IDE disk drives), which is common to many such external bridge units, then connecting it upside down will cause exactly what fzabkar has explained - ie sustained overvoltage on the 5V power input, since the 12V power supply will then be connected to that 5V power input.

It still boggles my mind to be honest..I always pay attention with what I do.

Preciate bud for the comments

[GTR-R35]

Just waiting for my post to get approved prior to the above,before I get started.

[fzabkar]

I suspect that the +5V and +12V outputs of the Sabrent power supply may not track each other very well. I have seen several cases where similar setups have resulted in similar problems.

Measure the voltages at the SATA power connector with no drive connected. If you have an old expendable drive (an IDE drive will do), then monitor the voltages while the drive is spinning up. During this time the +12V rail will be under maximum load. Watch the +5V supply while this is happening.

[Vulcan]

@fzabkar:
Hi Franc,

I suspect that the +5V and +12V outputs of the Sabrent power supply may not track each other very well. I have seen several cases where similar setups have resulted in similar problems.

Measurements are always good for confirmation, but in this specific case, the OP has already admitted to putting the molex connecting in upside down, as I mentioned - so we have a good idea of the specific problem here, don't we? And that's why the OP reports that the same PSU works with other disks.

Anyway, I see you've got this one 'in hand', so I'll leave you with it

Cheers...

[fzabkar]

@Vulcan:
Sorry, the OP's story was a little confusing for me. You're right, of course. That said, I have seen several cases where similar adapters, bought on eBay, have caused similar issues.

[GTR-R35]

For future use its safe to say I should stay away from "Sabrent Power Supply" to avoid these problems.

Ill let you guys know how the whole process took place..Ima go ahead and plug in non-functioning Hdd to my main PC's motherboard and see if it atleast spins up..if its a no go Im going to have to remove D4.