Samsung HD400LJ PCB

[alleyoopster]

Hi,

I have a problem with a Samsung HD400LJ. The drive does not spin up and I suspect the PCB after a power problem. Can I replace the PCB without firmware transfer? Does anyone have this in stock or know where I can get it? The PCB number is BF41-00107A.

kind Regards

Daniel

[fzabkar]

Can you upload a detailed photo? Many times the problem is confined to the TVS diodes and fuses near the SATA power connector. Often the solution is an easy no-cost DIY.

[alleyoopster]

Sounds promising, I have uploaded a photo of the PCB.

PCB Samsung HD400LJ

[BGman]

Go to the next step - use your Ohm meter

[unknown]

Both diodes looks fine, I think it would be the Marvell chip or motor controller IC or something else.
Anyway I hope it's just a TVS problem.

Good luck

[alleyoopster]

Are we talking about the 2 diodes bottom right? Normally I get a quick blip on the meter whatever way I put it on, but these two are different. Putting a tester on these, the left had one is showing a short both ways and the right hand one seems open. Maybe this is the problem. But I am not sure what results to expect testing this in situ with a diode test on a multimeter.

[Alexii]

remove the one shorted

[alleyoopster]

Felt like I was choosing between the red and the blue pill for a moment, but I chopped it out of circuit and the drive just powered up with all my data. Thanks for your help. What a big saving of money!

guess I need to be Very careful with what PSU I connect now

[unknown]

Well done

[Eduardomdn]

Hi
Can someone hell me ? The problem is mostly the same ( it doesn't start) and i think it was because a bad plug off.
I already tried another board and it worked Samsung HD300LD but i cant keep the good board so...

Attachments

[fzabkar]

Measure the resistances of the labelled components on the 200 ohms range of a digital multimeter:

http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HD ... switch.jpg

[artdot]

Hello, I was searching the internet for my particular issue and found this item about the Samsung hd400lj pcb bf41-00107a, I have the same pcb and my problem is that the larger black smd near the satapower connector is zapped/smoked, it looks like it has a number on it of 722, I am thinking this is a resistor but not sure. I have swapped pcbs to prove this is a defective one. There may be other issues, I just know this is smoked, you can see the crack on it. Any help would be appreciated or if someone knows where I can find a SD, that would work as well.
Thanks First Time User

[fzabkar]

my problem is that the larger black smd near the satapower connector is zapped/smoked, it looks like it has a number on it of 722

If you are referring to the 12V TVS diode, just snip it out with side cutters. This will remove the overvoltage protection from the +12V supply, so be absolutely certain your PSU is good.

http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/HD ... switch.jpg

BTW, the "722" marking appears to be a YWW (Year / Week) date code, ie week 22 of 2007.

[artdot]

Fzabkar, I am posting/attaching picture with arrow pointing to smd that has failed, is this what you are referring to?

Attachments

[fzabkar]

That's the 5V TVS diode. Remove it and check that the 000 resistor measures 0 ohms. If it is open, bridge it with a wire link or a blob of solder. You could use the vacant spot to the left of it (with the "+" shaped pads) to solder your wire.

You may want to first check that there is no additional shorted component on the +5V supply by measuring the resistance between the diode's pads on the PCB after the diode is removed.

[thatdellguy]

If it is open, bridge it with a wire link or a blob of solder.

Do that and the protection is out the window. Not how I would do it.

[fzabkar]

If it is open, bridge it with a wire link or a blob of solder.

Do that and the protection is out the window. Not how I would do it.

That's why I asked the OP to test for shorts. I also added the warning that "this will remove the overvoltage protection from the +12V supply, so be absolutely certain your PSU is good."

In fact I would replace the 0 ohm link with a second 125F polyswitch or a 2A picofuse or SMD fuse, but the OP may not have one handy. I would also test for shorted loads on each of the DC-DC converters.

In any case we are constrained by what is reasonable using DIY procedures. However, to answer your concerns, I will eventually be posting SMPS troubleshooting procedures and a "Basic Electronics for Data Recovery Dummies" tutorial.

miniSMDC125F/16, 1.25Amp, PolySwitch, Raychem Circuit Protection:
http://www1.futureelectronics.com/doc/R ... __16-2.pdf
http://www.anglia.com/raychem/datasheets/187_216.pdf

Littelfuse Surface Mount Fuses, N = 2A, S = 4A:
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/48294.pdf

[thatdellguy]

That's why I asked the OP to test for shorts.

Your giving advice to most people whom have never even seen or heard of a TVS, Fuse, or Diode until today. I remember a recent customer who tried a solder blob they read from online and it fried the preamp. Took a very simple recovery to a very expensive one. Customer was not too happy that they had to spend hundreds more.

[fzabkar]

That's why I asked the OP to test for shorts.

Your giving advice to most people whom have never even seen or heard of a TVS, Fuse, or Diode until today. I remember a recent customer who tried a solder blob they read from online and it fried the preamp. Took a very simple recovery to a very expensive one. Customer was not too happy that they had to spend hundreds more.

Even "simple" recoveries are expensive. That's why people opt for DIY. The last feedback I received in this forum was from a user who was quoted US$700 to remove a shorted diode.

As for frying the preamp with a misplaced solder blob, perhaps you could elaborate. I find it very hard to accept anything that the data recovery profession says in this regard. ISTM that there are some who will do or say anything to dissuade people from even the simplest of DIY jobs.

[pcimage]

Even "simple" recoveries are expensive.

Really?
Sounds like you're tarring all DR companies with the same brush. From your previous posts I reckon you'd be the first to complain that people are making assumptions based on unfounded prejudices!

That's why people opt for DIY.

No, it's because of interweb based DIY drivel and misguided information making people believe they can freeze their 1.5Tb seized Seagate to miraculously recover their data for free, and keeps their valued $$$ out of the clutches of those nasty "scum of the Earth" DR firms.

The last feedback I received in this forum was from a user who was quoted US$700 to remove a shorted diode.

I doubt that very much, more like the client was given a "guesstimate" on a recovery price, sight unseen. Then either it DID turn out to be a TVS problem (and probably given a "proper" quote accordingly), or you/they are just ASSUMING it was so simple. Again, you are just scaremongering to add fuel to the "fleecing DR company" fire you seem to like fanning.

As for frying the preamp with a misplaced solder blob, perhaps you could elaborate. I find it very hard to accept anything that the data recovery profession says in this regard. ISTM that there are some who will do or say anything to dissuade people from even the simplest of DIY jobs.

Again, paranoia rearing its ugly head. Assuming that ALL DR companies are robbing bastards and out to squeeze as much $$$ out of every poor unspecting "punter".

We would charge approx £99 for a TVS fix, but this would include re-applying the diode, AND cloning the drive to a known good one in case of bad sectors which are likely to have developed if the drive blew while powered on. You think that's daylight robbery no doubt as we are "seed of Satan" pro DR company, and that we should do it for $10? Sorry, but we're not a charity.

/RANT MODE=OFF