My Book - 250 Go - Over Voltage - Help with Logic board

[Ben_J]

Hi everybody,

I have read the FAQ and search on the forum but I haven't been able to identify a similar case (over voltage).

I have a WD 250 Go (I bought it around 2006), model WD2500I032, last night I have decided to plug it again and by mistake I used a 22.5V power supply, the light was green, no smell, no noise but the HDD didn't spin up. Then I plugged a correct power supply (12V, 2A, (-)--(o--(+) ), the green light was on however no spinning, no noise only the light even after plugging/unplugging with different USB cable into different laptops.

MDL: D2500JB-00REA0
DATE: 21 APR 2006
DCM: DSCACTJCH
on PCB: 2061-701292-C00 AA

I have removed the external box of the HDD and below some pictures of the logic board:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I have removed the HDD from the external box and test it internally and same issues, it doesn't start, no noise, no spinning. I have been looking for a TVS diod but no success. Based on what I read, I suspect that I have fired some components on the PCB however it can be a simplistic aproximation and maybe something different.

If it is the case, I have been looking for a replacement of the PCB like this one (where they reprogram the ROM/Firware -not sure how they do it and if it is possible):

http://www.hdd-parts.com/20098011.html

Any help would be very much appreciated!!!!
Thanks!

Best regards,
Ben

[northwind]

Have you read the CAUTION messages regarding risks of DIY on this board?
Do you accept the risk of DIY? This risk means that you can damage the drive beyond ANY repair (to a point not even a very high skilled pro could help you) or make recovery *x times more expensive.

If you do accept, read on. You have been warned. If you give this to a pro, and assuming problem only with pcb, then it wouldn't be too costly. Think again, then read on.

If you accept risks of DIY, then this is pretty straightforward.

Find the number printed on the pcb, namely 2060-xxxxxx-xxx rev x. (should be 2060-001292-xxx if i'm not mistaken).

Then order a new pcb with the same board number.

Transfer chip u12 from old pcb to new and fire up your hdd.

If you're lucky, and assuming you've done everything right, all files should be accessible.
If you're not lucky, then preamp is dead, and it is game over for diy. And in that case, these drives suffer from head alignment problem, so it should be fun for the pro you will send to

Good luck.

[Ben_J]

Thanks northwind, I accept the risk associated with DIY

So just to be sure I get it clear, there is no way to identify the faulty component on the PCB? Is it normal to not have any over voltage protection?

I will start looking for another PCB, any other recommendation to where to buy than the one posted in my previous post?

Thanks for your answer.
Best regards,
Ben

[northwind]

Yes you could search this forum for "TVS". You will get a lot of results and you can read there how you should proceed.

[northwind]

Here you go:
http://www.hddzone.com/wd-2060001292000 ... u9-KXKaVLg

[Vulcan]

@Ben_J:

I have read the FAQ and search on the forum but I haven't been able to identify a similar case (over voltage).

There are many, many, many similar cases, so there is something wrong with your searching. As northwind said, search for TVS as a start, since you have agreed to accept the risks of DIY.

I have been looking for a TVS diod but no success.

Look more closely & follow the +12V input from the Molex power connector. I expect you need to be checking the TVS near the middle of the board (labeled D4?) and associated fusible resistor (labeled R33?).

[fzabkar]

Look more closely & follow the +12V input from the Molex power connector. I expect you need to be checking the TVS near the middle of the board (labeled D4?) and associated fusible resistor (labeled R33?).

That's not a TVS diode. It's a Schottky flywheel diode in a DC-DC converter. It would be interesting to see if R33 were open, though.

[Vulcan]

That's not a TVS diode. It's a Schottky flywheel diode in a DC-DC converter.

Thanks for the correction. I hadn't found the zoom button on Image Shack images (have just done so!) hence the question marks in my previous reply. As I said before, following the +12V input should answer the OP's question and, if you are correct, it will not lead to D4

[Doomer]

There is a high possibility of fried preamp in this case but usually it comes with blown VCM controller, so maybe you are lucky guy and it's just PCB

[fzabkar]

I've just measured a working PCB (2060-701292-001).

R33 protects the Vio supply. It connects between the emitter of Q8 (the Vio pass transistor) and the +3.3V logic, including U12.

The anode of D4 is wired to pin #2 of J1. That's the negative supply pin for the preamp.

[Ben_J]

@Ben_J:

I have read the FAQ and search on the forum but I haven't been able to identify a similar case (over voltage).

There are many, many, many similar cases, so there is something wrong with your searching. As northwind said, search for TVS as a start, since you have agreed to accept the risks of DIY.

I have been searching for TVS on forum, on fzabkar web site but I haven't been able to identify any on my PCB that's why I am asking

I have been looking for a TVS diod but no success.

Look more closely & follow the +12V input from the Molex power connector. I expect you need to be checking the TVS near the middle of the board (labeled D4?) and associated fusible resistor (labeled R33?).

Unfortunately it seems that there is no TVS on that board...
Thanks for the help!

[Ben_J]

I would like to give you an update on it, I have bought a new PCB (ending in 002 instead of 001), swapped the U12 bios and it works fine! Backup of all data on a new HDD and keep the old one as a "souvenir"!

I have been trying to identify the fried component but nothing... So unfortunately no TVS on the board but luckily the faulty component was on the PCB!

Thanks for the help!
Regards,
Ben

[Vulcan]

Well done and thanks for coming back with an update - too few people do that...

You took the "DIY gamble" and won!