Power Supply Failure Fried 5 HD's

[PhilB]

Hello Everyone.. This is my first post.
I had a power supply fail a while ago that killed 5 hard drives. Four of them I'm not worried about as they were old & small capacity with nothing important on. The one I want to try & resurrect is a WD1002FAEX. I've checked the WD website & it's still under warranty. I doubt that this would be a warranty repair. I had cloud backup for the important files so the world's not going to end for me. It's music & videos I'm wanting to recover.
It doesn't spin up at all when connected. Nothing is detected in BIOS when connected. If I connect a good drive on the same motherboard connections etc, the drive is detected, so the undetected drive must be dead. The same motherboard, CPU, RAM, Etc Etc that was is in the PC when the power supply failed, is still in the PC & has been running with no problem since I installed a new power supply.
Does that sound like a PCB problem? Is it possible that the drives electric motor is fried to? Are the boards easy to come by & not ridiculously expensive? I haven't removed the PCB as yet just in case.
I've attached a picture of the PCB & you can see there is slight discolouration of the board on the contacts in the rectangular area.
The other number on the board is 2060-701640-007 Rev A
Thanks For Your Help
Phil

Attachments

[ShaneWard]

Unscrew the PCB from the drive (DO NOT OPEN THE DRIVE ITSELF) and take a picture of the components under, I suspect some of the Diodes that protect the drive might have shorted and all you need to do is have them replaced and your drive should work normally as long as your SMOOTH chip and Pre-amp are Okay.

Shane

[lt16]

As a note for PCB swaps on WD drives, you most transfer over the ROM. If you want to test your current board, obviously you could try attaching it to a good drive and seeing if it powers on. You can also
1. Clean the electronic components and connectors
2. Check resistor R120 (value should be 0.12 Ohm)
3. Check resistor Q3 (it's a 6 pin). The value for the first two and second two pins should be 0.000 and for the third couplet over 600. If Q3 is damaged it will trash that R120 too so don't replace a R120 without checking the Q3 first.
4. Check coils L2 and L7 with the multi-meter in diode mode. Value should be 0.000

To answer your other question, yes the motor IC can go out, and in some cases the motor (though rarely). Take a look at the Motor IC, L6278 1.7 and L6278 1.2 for damage. TV Diodes going out (if your PCB has any) can also cause power issues.

Discoloration on the contacts may just be oxidation. Clean the contacts with a pencil eraser.

[PhilB]

Thanks for the replies
I'll have a look at the PCB & do the multimeter check in the morning, then I'll post the results together with a picture
It would be nice if it's a fairly simple repair
Thanks
Phil