DiamondMax 9 Plus PCB swapping, good idea ?

[RaoulDeLaPena]

Hi everyone,

I did a stupid thing last day, trying to fix a RAID 0 external hard drive : I swapped the 5V and 12V on one of the 2 hard drives... Stupid right ? Both hard drive are Maxtor DiamondMax 9 Plus, 160Go... The good thing is that one of the two hard drive is still recognize by my laptop (but not readable as it's a RAID 0).

Anyway, I searched on the internet if there is a way to fix that, and everyone says a PCB swapping is possible.

BUT my stupid thing can broke the preamp in the hard drive.

I tested the preamp with a multitester today, trying to find if my preamp is dead, comparing the faulty one with the good one. I removed both PCB and, with diode tester, I tested pins 3, 4, 5 of the pins connector the hard drive has below the PCB. I got these result, ON BOTH HARD DRIVE :

3 is GND, 4 is -5V, 5 is 5V.

3/9 (Black) and 4/9 (Red) : about 0,61
3/9 (Red) and 4/9 (Black) : Infinity

3/9 (Black) and 5/9 (Red) : about 1,5
3/9 (Red) and 5/9 (Black) : about 0,54

Is my preamp still fine ? Can I swap my PCB with another one ?

Thank you very much for your answer,
RaoulDeLaPena

[RaoulDeLaPena]

I decided to test the PCB according this picture :
http://forums.seagate.com/stx/attachmen ... p_test.JPG

Black always on Molex GND, I got nothing on -5V, nothing on +3,3V or 1,75V. But I got 12V on the CR501 TVS. Maybe my PCB is dead ?

[fzabkar]

I suspect that the motor controller may be dead.

[RaoulDeLaPena]

So if I change PCB can be good or this controller is inside ?!

[ShaneWard]

So if I under stand this correctly, you plugged in the 12v line into the 5v connector of the hard drive? If this is correct you might have just blown the 5V diod and the only thing you need to do is snip it off the board and see if the drive works. The drive might have a fuse too, but I doubt it on this model as the other drive survived would mean the diod shorted out the 12v line before it could damage the other drive.

[RaoulDeLaPena]

Be careful, I didn't invert the plug on the working one ! Only one of it had the fatal tension swap.

On my hard drive, where is this 5V diod ? I know there is one for 12V, but 5V ?

[RaoulDeLaPena]

Oups, double post.

Another question, that is the match for K4FYA ? I have a label on the PCB with K4FYA written on it. The donor PCB needs to be K4FYA as well ?

[ShaneWard]

can you post an image of your PCB?

[RaoulDeLaPena]

Here is the PCB :

[ShaneWard]

I'm not 100% sure, but I think your TVS Diod, that might be shorted due to the voltage overload would be located left of the Smooth chip above the coil on the bottom left of the image. Its a little black component.

If that is the problem, snipping it off should get the drive working again and all you need to do is replace the component.

Shane

[RaoulDeLaPena]

Is it the component between MOTC test point and C508 ?

If is it this one, I got 12V on this component...

[Nesa]

I suspect that the motor controller may be dead.

[RaoulDeLaPena]

This motor controller is on the PCB or inside the hard drive ?

[BGman]

Oups, double post.

Another question, that is the match for K4FYA ? I have a label on the PCB with K4FYA written on it. The donor PCB needs to be K4FYA as well ?

Your PCB has no external ROM chip , so you can use other xxFYA PCB that:

1. has no external ROM chip
2. MCU (the big chip) matches yours ( as I remember C8-C5)
3. PCB model number , printed on the lower part of the PCB, matches too.

[ShaneWard]

Is it the component between MOTC test point and C508 ?

If is it this one, I got 12V on this component...

If that is indeed a 12V diod then the board could be dead. Is there anyway to remove the board and see if there are any other components on the other side? There should be a 5V diod that would protect the drive. If this drive does not have one, then a over volt would have damaged all the components on the drive, it might have even fried the pre-amp inside the drive itself.

[RaoulDeLaPena]

There is nothing on the other side, that's the problem :'( I will try to swap the PCB and see if there is something new

[unknown]

Straight PCB swap with exact same PCB# will do the job.

Good luck.

[RaoulDeLaPena]

In my case, my PCB# is 301599100 ? MCU is C8-C1 ?

[dick]

Hi, it looks like ARDENT C8-C1 which you can also find on 80gb drives with the same pcb.

There is just a very very small chance that the coil L50C has gone open circuit. Test it for continuity just in case.

[RaoulDeLaPena]

As far I remember, I have continuity in that component (when I test between the two silver color contact).

So I can check for 80Gb as well if it's C8-C1 ?

Really hard to get the compatibility detail for this hard drive