NOT TRUE, but expensive AND there are some "IF" and limits (however with great % of successful recover of data).

That's what i meant in the P.S. that you haven't quoted.
P.S.
I know only one guy in this forum that maybe is able to rebuild rom if chip is burnt, he is "dmarques" (in Portugal) but this job is very expensive!

Maybe you can explain us this "IF" and limits, it would be much interesting response
but all we know that you don't explain it...

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My firmware database:
https://mega.nz/folder/O01DkBRI#MxP2J6ZNqXDcrX40I8MoQQ

If you were a customer asking me to recover F3s without Rom, given the original hdd, you would know the ifs and limits at diagnose stage.

I don't know how other people work, only my stuff.
At present, some models are still problematic and each case is considered unique.

Broken Pin is reparable; but skills with Iron needed, hard job

No need to repair pin, i have a trick

_________________
My firmware database:
https://mega.nz/folder/O01DkBRI#MxP2J6ZNqXDcrX40I8MoQQ

what trick?

Google turns up thousands of hits on the subject. It seems that the obvious solution works for most people, namely to use a dremel or knife to scrape away enough of the plastic package to expose the stub of the pin.

http://www.google.com/search?q=%22broke ... +IC+repair

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A backup a day keeps DR away.

My trick is to use SOP8 to DIP8 adapter as this:
https://www.google.it/search?q=SOP8+To+ ... d=0CC8QsAQ

i insert the rom chip in the adapter, all rom pins will be connected to the adapter pins except the one that is broken, then i use thin tweezers with metal tips:
http://www.drivestar.biz/images/univers ... esd-10.jpg

with one of the tweezers tips keep touching rom stub pin and the adapter pin together to ensure electrical connection, then read rom with eprom programmer.
I read rom many times, 10 times for example, and save all on 10 files.
Then i compare all those files with Hex editor such as Hex Workshop to find if saved files are all same, if two or more are the same then means that very likely is a good rom read.

Hex comparing is needed because connection with tip twezeers is not perfect (you might have bad readings), you have to keep a steady hand while you read the rom.
After all you can write the good rom reading into a new rom chip by using the eprom.

_________________
My firmware database:
https://mega.nz/folder/O01DkBRI#MxP2J6ZNqXDcrX40I8MoQQ

the measurements of my rom bios chip is:

voltage vs ground:

1 1.76 V
2 0.02 V possible dead
3 1.79
4 0 (ground)
5 0.002 possible dead
6 1.8
7 1.8
8 1.8

pins 2 and 5 are the input output pins.

what shoul I do?

thanks

The problem seems to be within the chip. not that the pin is split. someone has the block diagram of my rom bios chip?

my rom bios chip is Winbond W25Q40BW.

thanks

pin 1 - 1,8V means chip is not used now (chip select dissabled)
pin 2 - Data Out, High impedance state, because chip select is high
pin 3 - /Write protect - High ? (disabled ?) weird...
pin 5 - Data In, 0V, chip select is high, nothing to transfer...
pin 6 - High ? It probably uses SPI mode 1,1
pin 7 - /HOLD - High = not in HOLD mode
pin 8 - Vdd

Flash chip is simply not used while you measure it (pin 1 high). Pin voltages seem fine, no overvoltages, but this actually says nothing ... you need to connect it to EEPROM programmer. Easiest solution to check Flash chip (if you are skilled with MCUs) is programming PIC or Atmega (any microcontroller with SPI) to read it (if it works), but you need knowledge and experiences to do that, or as i said, use compatible EEPROM programmer.

http://www.nexflash.com/NR/rdonlyres/6B ... 5Q40BW.pdf
Datasheet, google first link ...

yes, I read it before, but the block diagram is not the electrical block diagram.

if my pin voltages seem fine, where is the problem? what is the problem?

what should I do?

thanks

@anelito, did you measure the zero-ohm resistors? These normally go open circuit, like fuses.

http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/ST ... 01_TVS.jpg

I can see that your "specialized service" people removed the 5V TVS diode, but it appears that they did not check the associated resistors. Normally the DIY solution is to remove the diode and flow a blob of solder over each of these resistors. There is a slight risk that the preamp may have been damaged (because it is powered from the +5V supply), but my experience from watching the storage forums is that DIY-ers are usually successful.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

yes fzabkar, the tech service measured it. then, they removed the 5V TVS diode testing the PCB.

now my rom bios is in a new donor PCB without problem.

But he said that Flash IC has 1.8V supply and this voltage is converted from 5V supply, so they must be fine .

EDIT: I saw your last post too late

Well, your only chance is to desolder it (maybe it will work in PCB too) and check it in EEPROM programmer. Testing in different PCBs wont help. They said there is no current going into PCB, but that is impossible , Did they check voltages on coils ? Pro DRs should also use logic analyzers to check output from Flash ROM.

my eeprom seems works well, so,

where is the problem? what is the problem?

can I do another test to the disc?

thanks

My approach is always to determine the nature of the original fault. Then proceed from there.

To this end, I would take the original PCB, without its EEPROM, and measure its supply voltages.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.

Ok, after I send you the original PCB voltages.

also, may I perform some tests to rule out that the problem is the arm or discs?

thanks

I can't help with internal faults, but a serial terminal log may at least allow others to see the problem.

_________________
A backup a day keeps DR away.