Wow, thanks for all the replies... It may be a lost cause, but not due to lack of effort to help! Lemme try and answer some of the questions.
First of all i would ask for the OP to plug the drive to a computer PSU and check if the drive spins at all. Then we start from there,
Yes, the drive spins up fine whether connected directly to a SATA port or through the USB carrier.If the drive does spin then the next question is does it produce strange or abnomal clicking or sounds normal ?
No noises, no clicks, no vibrations, nothing abnormal. If there are no strange clicking then the drive might have firmware issues like damaged A-List causing a LED error. On those cases the TTL might be of some assistence but the OP will need tools and experience to make the drive work again.
I most likely have the tools if they're not anything too esoteric, but no experience trying to repair a hard drive.Does the drive stops after a short while after power up (if it starts to spin at all) ?
As near as I can tell, it'll spin indefinitely. I've had it sitting, connected for several hours at a time and it spins the whole time.The anwser to my question might provide more clues about what is going on with the drive and if it's possible or not for you to solve it by yourself (not likely).
What you describe so far leads me to believe that the problem is not "logic" and there is some phisical issue with the drive, as stated. Either mechanical or firmaware.
Do you intend to spend any money at all to get the data recovered ?
NO. I'd like to retain the data but it's not critical and if I can't get it back I'll destroy the drive as I've done others in the past that have failed.For firmware (on the platters) problems you will need (more or less expensive) tools and the adaptor. For ROM problems you will need either firmware tools or a eeprom programmer. Buying a new PCB will not work as swaping the ROM chip might be required, unless you are lucky. So even if the problem is with the PCB buying one on ebay might not be an option unless you exactly match the firmware version. Firmware on the ROM chip of the PCB must match overlays written on platter or it will not work.
The drive is a SAMSUNG HD103UJ, 1TB drive. If the controller/logic board is not particularly difficult to change, I DO have an identical drive sitting here that I can swap the PCB from... Hadn't considered that but this drive WAS working on 12/18 - when the last backup was made to it, so whatever I did (or it did or cosmic rays did) it happened in the last 10 days while sitting in the fireproof safe!If you are looking for a cheap alternative done by someone that takes Darta Recovery as an hobby (and not a profession) - ME - then the fix for the ROM problem or the firmware problem would cost you, let's say $40 USD + shipping costs to and from Portugal. If a PCB is needed then the price for that must be added as well. If the problem is heads related i can't help you out and you are adviced to use the services of a professional as opening the drive in safety requires lots of experience and a clean room or laminar flow bench with class 100 filtering.
A TTL adaptor to further diagnose the problem as mention is this :
http://malthus.mooo.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=192When connected to the drive on the following way it will provide further details on drive status :
http://malthus.mooo.com/viewtopic.php?f=116&t=189Then with the use of tools like the following and with experience and knowledge the firmware problems can be fixed to regain access to the data.
http://malthus.mooo.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=195Of course the MOST IMPORTANT part is to diagnose correctly the issue with the drive, so please reply to the question that i have made.
Using firmware tools or TTL will not mean a thing if the problem is with a toasted PCB or shorted TVS or bad heads, etc ....
ROM problem (damaged FIPS section) is very frequent on some models of Samsung drives. On November alone i've fix 4 of those including one for a user on the acelab forum.
Example of FIPS damage (when i had to deal with it for the first time):
http://malthus.mooo.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=643Other frequent issue is when the drive develop bad sectors and those are added to the defect list overflowing the list in a way that the drive gets stuck with LED error.
Example :
Explanation on how to fix it :
http://malthus.mooo.com/viewtopic.php?f=116&t=197Example on how it's fixed :
http://malthus.mooo.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=178But again, it all depends on the exact problem of the drive and the symptoms the drive is showing. It's the main duty of people working on the data recovery field to pay close attention to those small details to do a correct assessment of what is wrong with the drive.
An extra question - when you power on the drive by connecting it directly to the PC Power suppy and SATA cable, does the drive show itself on BIOS with the correct (or not) model name ? Does it show at all ?
At this time, as near as I can tell, neither Windows 8.1 BIOS, nor windows 7 BIOS sees the drive.
I'll read through the information you posted above and see if there's something in there that can help. I may also try swapping the PCB and see if that works.
I'll report back if I have anything useful found.